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audrey
02-07-2005, 12:37 AM
Just washed my cabinets with TSP rinsed them. Sanded the shiny polyurethane finish to roughen it up. Applied Home Depot Smart Paint. Well it was five days ago. I got my husband to put on a second coat but the paintprimer wasnt sticking well onto the cabinets, HELP PLEASE. Now we have to scrape it all off. I actually drank a bottle of wine tonight and my husbands still drinking beer. Were not happy. Any ideas.. Thankyou

Joel
02-07-2005, 12:47 AM
Sorry Audrey, I should have suggested when you first posted to prime the cabinets with Zinsser primer/sealer. I have had the best results for a bond coat with the cover/stain spray.

http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=12

To ensure the best bond, like to do an alcohol wipe with a clean rag right before priming.

John Stevenson
02-07-2005, 02:56 AM
Audrey,
If the wine is anything like that crap we get here it will make a good paint stripper.

John S.

IOWOLF
02-07-2005, 06:47 AM
SOUNDS like they used all the alcohol in the house.LOL

torker
02-07-2005, 06:53 AM
Audrey...a couple of questions...#1...maybe you should have drank TWO bottles of wine....that may have helped...no? You say you washed the cabinets down with TSP and sanded them. Was the sandpaper coming up kind of gummy? If it was you still had grease on the cabinets. This stuff can be really hard to remove and it sometimes takes an industrial automotive type of grease remover to get rid of it. I've even used a heat gun to help get rid of it. I won't tell you what I used for a remover...you would sue me if your house blew up http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif I had a cabinet shop for some time and took on several of these refinishing jobs. A couple of them where soft wood cabinets...these where the worse. Seems the grease really soaked into these. This paint you are using...is it oil based paint or water based? It does make a difference. I'd only use oil base for this. And did the first coat stick okay? Just wondering if the second coat was peeling off the first. There is usually a "window" of time that you are allowed to recoat a paint. 5 days? You may have exceeded the window for a recoat without a complete scuffing of the first coat. Good Luck! Got a headache http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
Russ

David/toledo
02-07-2005, 09:53 AM
Zinner is the only way to go. You want the Bin /shellac primer. It sounds like you used a latex paint. For all that they are made out for I haven't found one that I like for cabint or woodwork in genrail. To do it right I would most likey strip what you put on do a lite sand, repime and a top coat of oil paint. Some thing like Sherwin williams Por-Classic. And if you can spray it all Prep is 95 percent of painting.

David of Davids Painting and wallcover

andy_b
02-07-2005, 12:17 PM
i know the John Deere agricultural paint goes on well over grease and oil, and sticks like the dickens. of course, your color choices are limited.

andy b.

Norman Atkinson
02-07-2005, 07:19 PM
Sorry Audrey,

See my earlier comments.
Cows'Dick- and that's a fact.
Take it back to the bare wood and start again.

What you did was re-invent "wrinkle enamel"

You had two sorts of paint and the new top coat was actually acting as a paint stripper on the original one. And you followed the experts and destroyed the original paint skin to let the paint stripper do more damage.

It's like cellulose paint being overcoated with synthetic and vice versa!

Youre just like my Missus and my dog.
One word from me and they please themselves

Now go and try my plumbing advice.

Norman

Dave Opincarne
02-07-2005, 10:12 PM
TRY THIS ON A SAMPLE FIRST: Shellac can work as a primer/barier between dissimilar finishes. In patternmaking I apply it to wax and clay in order to get the laquer to stick. YMMV

Dave

PS Check your e-mail