View Full Version : G&E shaper runs!!! and how do i change oil?

02-05-2005, 05:19 PM
i had the motor on the old 18" G&E shaper running two months ago, but got involved in a few other projects (plus the temperatures dropped to 10 degrees) and i didn't have a chance to actually fire the thing up. so i read some manuals i found to make sure i knew what the heck would happen once i engaged the clutch, and today i actually ran it. what do you know, the thing actually works!!!!! i didn't really get what you guys mean when you said shapers run silent and you want them to take off chips that are blue-hot. well the rotary phase converter makes more noise than the entire shaper when it's running. that is just too cool!!!!! and it looks like it would power though anything you stuck on the table. i was only making small cuts with a dull cutter that came with it, but they were dropping off and still smoking. i only had it running at 11 cuts per minute, so it was going nice and slow. very stable and all the adjustments work smoothly. i shut it off when the oil pressure dropped after a few minutes.

so here are my questions. i can't keep the garage heated to 50 degrees all the time (or it would cost me $1000 just in oil for the garage). the shaper info says to run oil in the 500 SSUV range. can i use lighter oil in winter in a cold shop, or should i not even run the shaper if i can't warm it up? how do i drain the oil from the shaper? i know the oil is in the bottom, but for the life of me i can't find any drain plug. i believe the pressure dropped due to it being cold, the oil not draining down fast enough, and the oil level being low. i want to drain as much of the old oil as possible and refill with fresh, but i want to use the correct viscosity for the temperature. is there any type of oil heater that could be used?

thanks for any info. and i have to admit, if any of you without a shaper get a chance to pick one up for a decent price, they are dang cool!

andy b.

02-05-2005, 05:35 PM
Andy B,

Gotta love those shapers...kathunk,kathunk!

Closest experience I've had is with my air compressor, works fine all summer in the attached garage, doesn't want to start easily (or at all)in the winter when garage is cold.

Replaced the 30W oil in the crankcase with 10W mineral oil, about 150 susv, Mobil Velocite 10. Bought mine from Enco, but all the suppliers have it. Just gotta remember to change back when the temps are higher.

Barry Milton

Your Old Dog
02-05-2005, 05:51 PM
Can't answer your viscosity question but have a suggestion that might sound stupid but it could work.

How about a $29.00 300 watt magnetic engine oil pan heater. I bought one and plug it in the night before I plan on working in my frozen shop and it does in fact warm up my Bridgy. Did I say Bridgy? Sorry I meant Rungy (as in Rung Foo !! mill drill !)

My heater has about a 4x5 inch magnetic base and it fits a flat spot on the mill. It's schlock but it works for the occasional few times I get to fool with the mill in the frozen tundra of Buffalo New York.......

Your Old Dog
02-05-2005, 05:53 PM
I should have mentioned in the above post.................

The magnetic base works for otherthings as well around the homestead........

02-05-2005, 08:47 PM
i have one of those magnetic heaters. i think i'll go stick it on right now and see what happens by morning.

actually, all i want to do for now is get the oil so it at least flows a bit so i can somehow get it cleaned out and add fresh stuff. the oil sump supposedly holds 7 gallons, so i'm thinking i may put lighter weight oil in for the winter, and drain it out and save it in the spring. and in the spring add the heavyweight stuff.

too bad GL-1 gear lube wouldn't work. i have tons of that around for use in old tractors and crap i have. i'd just pick up a 55 gal drum if it was the right stuff (but i was told it isn't).

andy b.

02-06-2005, 01:14 PM
well i drained the oil out by using a small cup and scooping it out. i couldn't see any other way to do it. there were about 5 pounds of metal shavings in the sump, a 3/4" shaft carbide cutter like you'd use on a lather (or shaper), and a 2 1/2" diameter slitting saw for cutting the slot in screw heads. the slitting saw is still in its cardboard envelope (now oil-soaked).

i'm going to pick some oil up in the next few days and i'll report back how it runs once i get it refilled.

andy b.

02-06-2005, 10:49 PM
Don't forget, pics pics pics http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Forrest Addy
02-07-2005, 03:34 AM
Clean the sump well, try to see if there's a strainer on the oil pump suction and clean it if you can.

Oil changes are the most dangerous times for a machine tool. Any crap laying in the sump gets stirred up and naturally you have to run the machine before the crap can settle. This sucks up who knows what and passes it on to the most sensitive parts off the machine (Murphy's Law corollary #113)

I recall a Navy manual that reccommended starting a piece of equipment (forget what) only after 24 hours have elapsed after an oil change. Good rule for hydraulics too.

02-07-2005, 11:40 AM
here's a pic:


this is when i brought it home last summer and basically just wiped it off. it is now a bit cleaner, but it's no beauty queen (in the paint department). there is still most of the frosting on the ways for the table, but the ram ways are all just worn smooth. not that it matters, as everything still has zero play. even the internals for the big ram operating arm are still tight with some frosting left. i'll try and get a pic of the inside. i think a small family could live in the main housing for the thing.

and Forrest, i was thinking exactly what you said. i plan on letting everything settle for a day after refilling it (tonight) to let the crap i stir up settle out again.

andy b.

02-07-2005, 12:51 PM
Congrats! You're gonna love that machine. I use my 16" GEM (General Engeneering Machine) all the time. Can't beat the metal removal rate vs. tooling cost! Thanks to your post, I popped the top off my gearbox this morning and took a peek inside. Very low oil http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//eek.gif. Drained what was in there and re-filled (to the proper level) with 80-90. I use the magnetic block heater on the Omniversal.

Eastern Maine, USA

02-08-2005, 08:29 PM
well i added the 5 gallons of oil and ran the shaper for about 30-40 minutes with no problems!!! even the power cross-feeds work! i still need to add a gallon or two of oil to get the level topped off, but otherwise everything looked good. now i need to get a decent grinding wheel to form some cutters. looks like my search is on for another "new" tool.

i'm going to try and get a short video of it running. we'll see how it works out and i'll post a link if i can get it to work.

andy b.