Miller Syncrowave 250 DX

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

Has anyone used the new Miller Syncrowave 250 DX TIGRunner package (w/Integrated cooler and 250Amp Diamondback torch)?

I've been looking to add a good TIG machine to my shop now that I've started learning TIG in night school. I can't stop thinking about TIG welding now. I've been practicing on an older Syncrowave 300 with 100% argon and 15 gauge aluminum plates.

Making beautiful aluminum beads is so gratifying for some reason.

-3Ph

[precisionworks]

Found this thread on one of my welding forums:

http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=1564&goto=nextoldest

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

Thanks for the link.. I was previously comparing the Syncrowave 250DX with the dyn300 but I probably should have been comparing it with the dyn200 like that thread did..

It seems the dyn200 equiped with the water cooler and runner is around the same price as the Syncrowave 250DX. The dyn200 seems to have some more control and pulsed TIG but I'm not sure if I would use pulsed TIG. I do like how the Syncrowave 250DX has everything integrated in one cabinet.

I guess it doesn't really matter which one I get at this point because they all are going to have more capability than I'll probably ever have.

-3Ph

[Rustybolt]

If you're going to be doing a lot of alum. you'll find pulsed an asset. Teh Lincoln Precision Tig units have it. I'm kind of pro lincoln since we have both in my class and as far as I'm concerned the Lincoln is out performing the Miller.

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Rustybolt:
If you're going to be doing a lot of alum. you'll find pulsed an asset. Teh Lincoln Precision Tig units have it. I'm kind of pro lincoln since we have both in my class and as far as I'm concerned the Lincoln is out performing the Miller.</font>

What does the pulsed TIG do? I'm currently using a Syncrowave 300 (older machine) in my TIG class and it does have pulsing (and some misc knobs that control parameters for pulsing) but we never use it and we're welding aluminum.. I think it was one of the "don't worry about that" when the instructor was teaching me how to operate the TIG machine initially...

-3Ph

[Tim Mehner]

I have a 250 Synchrowave DX Tigrunner pckg. in my home shop. It's a 2004 model, not sure if it's the same as '05. I like my machine very much. Welds anything that I want to, alum. to stainless. No problems with it so far.
I weld aluminum radiators for a living. We have Lincoln machines at work. they work super on alum. I have a 355 Squarewave at work. I'm not real fond of the newest Lincoln tig machines. The high frequency acts funny at start up. It may just be our machines acting up. I just prefer my older (1999) squarewave mach.
I really like the overall size of the Miller welders better. Hope this helps a little. Tim

[precisionworks]

3Ph,

Pulsing can be used AC or DC and allows you to produce welds that look almost robotic in appearance and consistency. My TIG machine has these pulsing specs:

DC Pulsing Frequency 0.4 to 300 Hz
AC Pulsing Frequency 0.4 to 2 Hz
Pulsing Base Current 25%
AC Frequency 20 to 200 Hz

So if I set the max current at 200 amps, frequency at 1.0 Hz and floor the pedal, the current will go to 200 amps for one second, drop to 50 amps for one second and repeat. Pedal still works normally so you can modulate the current as the workpiece heats up & you need to back the heat down.
When the work has to be drop dead perfect (high end office equipment, dental stands, fancy stuff) pulsing helps.

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tim Mehner:
I have a 250 Synchrowave DX Tigrunner pckg. in my home shop. It's a 2004 model, not sure if it's the same as '05. I like my machine very much. Welds anything that I want to, alum. to stainless. No problems with it so far.
I weld aluminum radiators for a living. We have Lincoln machines at work. they work super on alum. I have a 355 Squarewave at work. I'm not real fond of the newest Lincoln tig machines. The high frequency acts funny at start up. It may just be our machines acting up. I just prefer my older (1999) squarewave mach.
I really like the overall size of the Miller welders better. Hope this helps a little. Tim</font>


Tim,

Do you know what size breaker your using for your 250DX? I was reading the online manual and I believe it said it needs a 100amp circuit? I'm installing a seperate 100amp service pannel in my garage for everything so I'm wondering if I'll need more.

-3Ph



[This message has been edited by 3 Phase Lightbulb (edited 03-10-2005).]

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by precisionworks:
3Ph,

Pulsing can be used AC or DC and allows you to produce welds that look almost robotic in appearance and consistency. My TIG machine has these pulsing specs:

DC Pulsing Frequency 0.4 to 300 Hz
AC Pulsing Frequency 0.4 to 2 Hz
Pulsing Base Current 25%
AC Frequency 20 to 200 Hz

So if I set the max current at 200 amps, frequency at 1.0 Hz and floor the pedal, the current will go to 200 amps for one second, drop to 50 amps for one second and repeat. Pedal still works normally so you can modulate the current as the workpiece heats up & you need to back the heat down.
When the work has to be drop dead perfect (high end office equipment, dental stands, fancy stuff) pulsing helps.</font>


I'm not sure if that would help me make nicer welds or not.. I find that puddle control along with adding filler "just at the right time" is key, along with a tiny bit of back-wash produce my nicest beads.. I feel I can control the heat with the pedal really well, with the exception of knowing exactly how deep I'm penetrating. I'm still trying to control penetration. I tend to always run a little too hot -- especially towards the end because I forget to reduce the heat after the work starts to heat up durring the weld..

-3ph

[Tim Mehner]

I have a 100 amp breaker with BIG wire from the panel box to the welder. I have mine wired up without a plug at the wall. My electrican told me it would be best to do it that way. I have a 20' cord on the welder plus 25' torch. I can go anywhere in my shop with it. Can't remember off the top of my head what size wire we ran. I'll have to check later today and report back.

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tim Mehner:
I have a 100 amp breaker with BIG wire from the panel box to the welder. I have mine wired up without a plug at the wall. My electrican told me it would be best to do it that way. I have a 20' cord on the welder plus 25' torch. I can go anywhere in my shop with it. Can't remember off the top of my head what size wire we ran. I'll have to check later today and report back.</font>

I'm running 2-2-2 from my main panel using a 100amp feeder breaker to power my 100amp sub-pannel. I'll probably just wire the welder into my 100 amp sub-pannel with another 100amp feeder breaker. I'll be running my 3-phase rotary generator off my 100amp sub-pannel, Millermatic 210, and misc other shop circuits but I should be fine with 100amp because I'm not going to be TIG welding and using my bridgeport and/or Lathe or my MIG at the same time -- At least not until I get really good using my toes. I don't need to move the Syncrowave around since my garage is only 25x25' so I'll just use a short power feed from the welder to my sub-pannel.

-3Ph

[mattc]

the 2-2-2 is raited at 95 amps so it should work to feed you 100amp main, and from what I see it does look like that welder needs the 100amp breaker

Matt in AK

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mattc:
the 2-2-2 is raited at 95 amps so it should work to feed you 100amp main, and from what I see it does look like that welder needs the 100amp breaker

Matt in AK</font>


My main 200amp house panel is right in my garage too, so my 100amp sub-panel is only going to be maybe 5-10 feet away from my main panel. One cosmetic problem I'll have is my main 200amp house panel is recessed into the wall in my garage... The 2-2-2 sub-pannel feed wire is very hard to bend, and impossible to get through a 90'deg Elbow so I'm wondering how I'll be able to get it to come out cleanly from my main recessed panel. I'll have to cut into the drywall and use one of the side openings, but making that 90'deg bend to come out and run it inside of conduit is going to be almost impossible with 2-2-2.. Do you have any suggestions? Do the sell flexible 2-2-2?

-3Ph

[Tim Mehner]

OK, I checked my wire size. It's #2, as you suggested. They do make flexible #2 cord. That's what I have from the wall box to the machine. I had a hard time finding it. Wound up going to a electric wholesale supplier. It had to be special ordered and 20' was the minimum they would order for me. I have 200 amp service to my shop. I also ran 1.5" conduit for the wire. We ran it up out the top of the panel box and thru the attic then back down the wall. I tried to plan ahead some what when I was building my shop. I didn't want any exposed conduit. Where the box is in the wall for the #2 wire, I just got an outdoor 90* fitting to turn it down . It was a PITA to bend the flexible cord inside of that though. It worked fine just was a bitch to get it all connected.

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tim Mehner:
OK, I checked my wire size. It's #2, as you suggested. They do make flexible #2 cord. That's what I have from the wall box to the machine. I had a hard time finding it. Wound up going to a electric wholesale supplier. It had to be special ordered and 20' was the minimum they would order for me. I have 200 amp service to my shop. I also ran 1.5" conduit for the wire. We ran it up out the top of the panel box and thru the attic then back down the wall. I tried to plan ahead some what when I was building my shop. I didn't want any exposed conduit. Where the box is in the wall for the #2 wire, I just got an outdoor 90* fitting to turn it down . It was a PITA to bend the flexible cord inside of that though. It worked fine just was a bitch to get it all connected.</font>

Thanks, I think I'll save myself some pain and try and find flexible 2-2-2 so I can make that 90 deg bend inside of the conduit elbow..

Does anyone know where I can buy flexible 2-2-2 online somewhere?

-3Ph