View Full Version : Carnival Ride Takes Shape! - "Kenbota"

03-19-2005, 01:54 AM
I've been working on a sub-compact Grader to clean up my drive way after rains. The drive way winds down hill for 1/4 mile and gets pretty rough sometimes. I got tired of filling holes with a shovel so I started accumulating parts for a "tool" last year.

I test drove it two weeks ago and it works great. I still have to locate a drive belt for the front tiller and finish the FEL but it works as a grader now.

It's powered by Kubota Z400 Diesel that was salvaged from a G3200. I also used the hood (with extension), seat, console, front axle (widened) and the tires from the G3200. The rest of the chassis/frame was all fabricated.

I just now got back my film that was taken during the assembly. I also just got a new digital camera so I take some "semi-completed" pics this weekend. For now, here's a couple off the 35mm batch.

Finished Welding on the frame bottom:

Frame rightside in primer:

Frame in color: (Blade carrier in background)

Blade lift cylinder:

Dave Opincarne
03-19-2005, 02:02 AM
Gee I might be able to get out to the shop and solder a new mini-jack onto my headphones this weekend. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//frown.gif

Seriously, that is amazing!

03-19-2005, 02:21 AM
Ever heard of concrete??

Is it registered for the road http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif? Where do you put the wife and kids?

Good work Ken, if I ever need any fabrication I'll come and see you. You have talent http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//cool.gif .

cheers, Ken

Your Old Dog
03-19-2005, 07:34 AM
Whoa! You've inspired me! I feel like running out to the barn, jumping in the truck and heading into town to get me a bigger computer screen so I can take in all these projects! Wish I had the energy that some of you are blessed with! Great job, you should be very proud. How may road graders are in your neighborhood? Are you the last one in the neighborhood to get one? That you have a need for a road grader, where the hell is your neighborhood? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

[This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 03-19-2005).]

G.A. Ewen
03-19-2005, 08:57 AM
Ken, that's a fantastic job you are doing. Keep the photos coming.

03-19-2005, 09:27 AM
Nice piece of work. Looks better than some of the brand name equipment that you can buy today. Keep the pictures coming, want to see the finished product.


03-19-2005, 10:12 AM
Circus music 24/7 buddy http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//tongue.gif Looking good,where's the ac? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-19-2005, 10:13 AM
You are some kind of can-do wild man!

03-20-2005, 04:40 PM
More pics.





03-20-2005, 04:45 PM
The birth of:
"CCWKen Construction and Roading" ??

Veeery impressive! good onya!

cheers, Ken

03-20-2005, 05:09 PM
Very IMPRESSIVE, excellent job

03-20-2005, 05:23 PM
Very Nice Work.


03-20-2005, 05:32 PM
That's incredable Ken.
How long did it take you to make it.
was it a scratch build or is the chassis adapted from something else.
something like that would probably take me ten years to build.
all the best...mark

G.A. Ewen
03-20-2005, 05:37 PM
That is the best piece of homebuilt machinery that I have ever seen. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//cool.gif

03-20-2005, 05:41 PM
Friend, Mikey has a pavement machine just sitting waiting on you. two small steam rollers sitting in his yard.

They bought it about ten years ago, been sitting ever since. They contracted the pavement on the subdivision. Driveways is the paying business, not state subsidized roadways where you have to have a huge cash bond.


03-20-2005, 05:50 PM
You got the hydraulics, seems a backhoe-front loader, ditchdigger,post-digger, grass mower attachment is in order now.

03-20-2005, 09:43 PM

charlie coghill
03-20-2005, 09:52 PM
Ken, Very nicely done.

03-20-2005, 09:56 PM
beautiful! it looks extremely well thought out.

andy b.

03-20-2005, 10:43 PM
The chassis, blade, blade carrier and all the linkage were built from scratch. The rear fenders are trailer fenders. Everything else was a weldment, formed or machined from scratch. IIRC, I started this project last October/November.

The following parts were used from a Kubota G3200.
Front Axle Assembly - Widened 6"
PTO Pulley Assembly - With mods
Hood - Extended 18"
Engine - Cleaned, Flywheel repaired, painted, 55A alternator adapted.
Console - Steering Assembly, riser plate
Seat - With hinge plate
Fuel system - pump, tank
Tires - Front and Rear. I have a set of lug tires for rear too.

The two-speed rear axle assembly is a Peerless model 2500 with an Eaton model 11 transmission (hydrostatic, with 500psi charge pump). This was found at the salvage yard and reconditioned. I don't know the original tractor type/make--It was attached to a light blue frame. The brake pedal (left side) also came from this frame. So if anyone can identify it's origin, I'd appreciate it. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Hey Dave, I'm working on the front end loader (FEL). The only thing left to do is make the bucket, paint and mount it. The frame is already set up to take it. The hole in the frame, behind the front wheel, is the forward mount. The scratched bracket(s) behind the lift cylinder is the rear mount. I'm looking for a small two-spool control valve. The contol box in the pics is temporary. That's why it not enclosed.

One of those rollers would be nice. I do have a compactor. It's one of those plate compactors. I thought about mounting it to the front end loader arms (in place of a bucket). Now you know why I haven't had time to work on my shop tools. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-20-2005, 11:35 PM
YOU ARE FRIGGIN' AWESOME http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
That's some seriously nice work!

Hoffman in Warner Robins Ga

03-20-2005, 11:45 PM
Wow, that is nice, did you canabalize a Kubota to make that?

Bob Quale
03-20-2005, 11:52 PM

Nice job!!

03-21-2005, 12:03 AM
Beautiful and well thought out job.

03-21-2005, 12:04 AM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">...did you canabalize a Kubota to make that</font>

Yep. Picked one up at an auction for $360. It was missing the deck. It had all new electrics (battery, starter, keyswitch, dynamo, regulator, etc). Someone appeared to be hunting down a problem. It wouldn't start at first. I got it home, looked around and found a fuse. Fuse was good but the connections were corroded. Cleaned the connections and it fired right up. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

The new parts are worth more than I paid. I replaced the dynamo/regulator with a full fledged alternator. I still have the Kubota trans, rear end and clutch. The dynamo and reg too. If anyone is looking for parts, give me a buzz. The dynamo/reg is new. It would be a great way to add a 10A charging system to a small engine.

03-21-2005, 01:39 AM

Sweeeet!!!! Very nice work!!! Looks kind of like a miniture of my 1963 Huber Roadmaintainer. Keep posting the pictures of it. Lets see it in work. Would also like to see the front end loader.

The brake pedal,what I can see of the rear end, and your discription of the frame, it looks and sounds like a Gilson or Wards (Gilson made them for Wards) lawn tractor.

I can not get the picture to show. The one in the picture is not blue but I have one that is.


[This message has been edited by rumutt (edited 03-21-2005).]

03-21-2005, 07:44 PM
Great job. Did you work any of the details out on a computer at first or just built it as you went? I don't see to much in the way of recut, grind and reweld. It looks like you had a definite plan?????

03-21-2005, 09:39 PM
Plan? What's that? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
Well, the plan was to build a grader. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//rolleyes.gif

I scratched out ideas on paper; usually the night or weekend before each weldment was done. Nothing was to scale. I just had an idea of how it should be then worked it out on paper. The measuring, cutting and welding was done as I went along.

I started by positioning the transmission/rearend under two channels and locating the engine to match the drive shaft I had. I just kept working forward making brackets and mounts as I went along. Linking the shift, HSD, brakes, steering and pedals was done the same way. As I needed a part, it was fabricated.

The blade carrier was the hardest to get thought out (plan). I had two convertible top pumps and two CT cylinders. I wanted to use what I had to make it work. I needed a way for the blade to move up/down independently on each side. Sounds simple. That meant the carrier had to pivot and move up/down as well as maintain parallel axis to the frame. (Not move side to side.) If it did, it would tear the lift cylinders off.

The version in the picture is "release three". http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif The tabs behind the front wheels were the original attachment points for the blade carrier. That didn't work out so there was a design chage and I left the tabs on. (I might use them some day--Mower deck. ???)

The blade itself is attached to the carrier by a single post. The blade ends then move front to back or pivot on the post by use of a linear drive. I thought this was a "4-way" blade but someone else called it a "6-way". What ever it is, I can lift/lower each side of the blade as well as angle the blade to favor left or right.

We don't need no stinking plan! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-21-2005, 09:53 PM
By the way, the last set of pictures were taken with the new digital camera. What do ya think? Don't know why it took me so long to join the 21st century. Oh I remember now, it was my 10 year old computer I had to replace first.

The pictures were taken Saturday afternoon (3/19/05). Notice all the green grass and weeds? It was 80 degrees! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-21-2005, 11:43 PM
Beeutiful. Wow. 80 degrees? We still have six foot snowbanks here.

03-22-2005, 01:28 AM
Your grader is GREAT! You need to make up a set of drawings and instructions, and market them. Really, you have something special and why not capitalize on it. A set of drawings and plans could easily pay for your project. Not many of us can do that. Great work! Go for it!

[This message has been edited by lugnut (edited 03-22-2005).]

03-22-2005, 01:29 AM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by lugnut:
Your grader is GREAT! You need to make up a set of drawings and instructions, and market them. Really, you have something special and why not capitalize on it. A set of drawings and plans could easily pay for your project. Not many of us can do that. Great work! Go for it!

03-22-2005, 01:33 AM
Sorry for the repost, pushed the wrong button!

03-22-2005, 02:37 AM
Ken, very well done in many ways. Couple of questions though, and please don't take them as criticism in any way. I'm just curious

Unless I miss understand how it works. Your using the rams to prevent sideways movement of the blade? Hmm, not an option I would have chosen. The other question I would have is as you angle the blade (drop one side) the centre distance at the ram ends will change in relation to the fixed centre distance at the trunions. I think you have used ball ends on the ends which will allow for the angle change, but how have you overcome the other movement?


[This message has been edited by zl1byz (edited 03-22-2005).]

03-22-2005, 10:38 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Your using the rams to prevent sideways movement of the blade?</font>
No! There's a sway bar mounted at the front of blade carrier. It's mounted to the right of the swiveling yoke. The sway bar follows the up/down and pitch of the carrier but restricts side-to-side movement.

The swivel yoke is about in the middle of the picture. The sway bar is mounted to the right.

This is the sway bar connection at the carrier.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">The other question I would have is as you angle the blade (drop one side) the centre distance at the ram ends will change in relation to the fixed centre distance at the trunions. I think you have used ball ends on the ends which will allow for the angle change, but how have you overcome the other movement?</font>

Sharp eye John. The front-to-back arc made by the carrier is compensated by the trunion connection at the cylinder. The cylinders pivot front-to-back on bolts that are turned down on the ends. You can just make out the nuts welded to the bracket. The cylinders pivot on the turned down portion of the bolts.

The side-to-side arc(s) is/are compensated as you state. The carrier mount for the cylinder rod is also clearanced to allow full extension on one side. You can just make out the "flare" on the upper part of the mount in the picture above. Also, the mount is wide enough to handle the change in line-to-arc angle without over stressing the cylinder. On level ground, the blade clearance is 4".

Hey, keep the questions comming! If something doesn't look like it'll work, I'll change it. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-22-2005, 11:15 PM
Originally posted by lugnut:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">...You need to make up a set of drawings and instructions, and market them. A set of drawings and plans could easily pay for your project. Not many of us can do that. Great work! Go for it!

I'd rather they order a "machine" and I'd build it. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Mike Burdick
03-23-2005, 12:01 AM

What you ought to make is an attachment blade that fits under a high clearance tractor. The blade would need to be able to be put in a “flat” position for moving around but that shouldn’t be a problem. You might just end up with an “Industry” in your backyard if you’re not careful! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif

03-23-2005, 12:23 AM
You mean a "belly mower"? They've been around for years. I've got three other tractors to cut grass. This was built to manintain the drive way--Without having to change, or buy, attachments.

The tiller's not quite finished but here's the "ripper" for grader. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif


Mike Burdick
03-23-2005, 12:39 AM

Nope...I mean a "belly" blade. I haven't seen one of those - have you?

03-23-2005, 12:50 AM


03-23-2005, 12:57 AM
Ok on the sway bar Ken.

Still not convinced about what happens when you drop one side though. I'll see if I can explain what I'm on about.

Get a sheet A4 of paper. The top edge is the line the rams pivot on at the trunions. The edges comming down the page are the ram spears. Get a ruller, if you measure across the page keeping the ruler paralel to the top edge it will measure the same length as the top edge but soon os you tilt the ruler on an angle it requires a greater length of ruler to measure between the sides. Applying this to your grader distance of the ram mounts is fixed so when you drop one side this distance will effectively get shorter at the blade carrier end. I'm not sure how much stroke you have on the rams and how much angle you can achive on the blade. Perhaps it is not enough to consider. Sorry about the wordy post, sometimes it's hard to get your idea's across.


03-23-2005, 01:06 AM
Man everyone must have been posting at the same time. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

Like that last picture of yours Ken! get a better perception of size with that one. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Is that red frame with wheels a floor gantry?


03-23-2005, 01:13 AM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CCWKen:
Originally posted by lugnut:
I'd rather they order a "machine" and I'd build it. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif </font>

But but but, you shouldn't have all the fun, we would like to play with your great idea! You can sell built ones to the OTHER people, You know the ones on the,--- street!
good luck with your great project!

03-23-2005, 08:19 PM
Yep, the red frame is a gantry--Two ton.

John, I had to go out and try the thing today. I remember going through the problem work-out with the blade. I admit a dual axis trunion would have been the way to go and I remember thinking about it. As with most "seat of the pants" designs, I went with what I had welded. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

It doesn't seem to bind the rod. Probably because of the short throw. Since the cylinder only has to move about 1/2 the distance of the blade end, a full angle tilt only moves the cylinder rod about 2".

I do remember one thing after playing with it today. Because of the center mount pitch, you have to drop the opposite side down a little for tilting. Otherwise, the opposite side is restricted by the frame on it's move up.

A two-axis trunion mount will be on serial # 0002 though. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-23-2005, 11:09 PM
Very good Ken.

You obviously had thought about it and are happy with it.

In all that looks like an interesting little machine you are developing there. A credit to you for sure.