View Full Version : Two Tipsbook Announcements

02-21-2005, 09:20 AM
Hi all,

Two announcements:

I received some sales figures for the Tipsbook. Since January 1st, there have been 221 copies SHIPPED, as of February 18th, which makes it the top seller so far in 2005. Keep in mind this is the number shipped, this doesn't include ones purchased at the Cabin Fever show, or ones that have been ordered and not shipped yet. So congratulations are once again in order. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

Second announcement: Tipsbook 2 has been greenlighted! I've decided to keep it at the same format (soft cover, 56 pages) in order to keep the price as low as it has been. So, once again I will be lurking the forum for tips and tricks for the book. If I see something I like, I'll email the poster and ask for permission to use it. If you want, feel free to post tips to this thread, or if you've posted something previously that you want me to take a look at, point me in the direction. Again, compensation will be in the form of a free book.

Again, congratulations and thank you to all those that have made the original tipsbook a success. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

02-21-2005, 10:04 AM

Fine job. I had printed out the "tips posted" and notice it is about twice as thick as the "tips published". HSM missed a lot of good tips. Or are they going to be in edition 2?

I enjoy the magazines, have found a lot of good in them. The current edition has cnc'ing a indexer. What they left off? cutting balls with a indexer under a toolpost on a lathe. I need to automate the small indexer here.

02-21-2005, 10:27 AM
A suggestion: Until the closing date for Tips II how about making this thread "sticky" so it stays at the top?

John Stevenson
02-21-2005, 10:43 AM

[This message has been edited by John Stevenson (edited 01-08-2006).]

02-21-2005, 10:52 AM
A tip for setting up a small bench lathe.

I set up my SB9 on a piece of 8" channel iron under the feet. This gives a rigid reference surface that isn't going to change and greatly improves the rigidity of the entire lathe. I then used shim stock under the tail foot to adjust out any twist in the ways. I was able to get it to .0005 or so over the entire center to center length. The channel iron makes a BIG difference to the rigidity and ability to take cuts with no chatter.


Charles Ping
02-21-2005, 11:19 AM
Ok, dumb question from over the sea.
How do I get hold of a copy of the tips book?



02-21-2005, 12:21 PM

Call 1-800-447-7367. That's our subscription services/order department. Just tell 'em you want the book and they'll set you up from there.


[This message has been edited by cfoster (edited 02-21-2005).]

02-21-2005, 12:37 PM
Evan, what do ye have under the metal sheeting on your lathe bench? I'm once again thinking about building a lathe bench (my back gets sore while threading - current bench too low and I've taken a dislke to it). I was going to use 4 X 4's for my four bench legs, 2 X 4's and 1 X 3's for framing/facing, and a couple 1/2" pieces of plywood on centered 2 X 4's for the bench top. I like the 8" channel iron idea.

02-21-2005, 01:08 PM
The bench is made of a frame of 2x4" wood with stringers of 2x4s spaced on 12" centers. The top and bottom of the bench top is 3/4" plywood glued and screwed to both sides and covered with sheet metal. The back and sides of the bench stand are also similar construction but covered on the outside only with the front left open. A shelf is placed in the lower part of the stand to reenforce the bench and to hold junk. Not seen in the picture is a full width tooling drawer on glides just below the bench top. The bench top is fastened to the stand with lag bolts from beneath so it may be dissasembled if it need to be moved.

The bench is strong enough to support a loaded cement truck.

02-21-2005, 01:20 PM
Thankee Evan. That's good guidance for me.

02-23-2005, 09:56 AM
For quick and dirty locating when setting up a boring job on a lathe and four jaw chuck. Locate and center drill the location of your bore on the workpiece. Then, with the chuck jaws wide open, place the workpice against the face of the chuck, and bring the tailstock with a dead center up to hold the center drilled mark tightly against the face of the chuck while you tighten the four jaws to the workpiece. With a little practice to not overtighten one jaw before the opposing jaw, you can easily get within a thou or so. Retract the tailstock, and drill and bore as usual. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

02-27-2005, 07:54 PM
OK, here is one, You can put all sort of things, center drills,lathe bits,mill bits, itsy bits,in plastic rifle and pistol cartridge boxes made for reloaders, they hold 20 or fifty.

Jay Wulff

02-27-2005, 09:06 PM
Longer belt life on your variable speed mill. On Bridgeports or any other mill, run the the spindle speed up to the 2500 - 3000 rpm setting before leaving for the day. This loosens the tension on the belt and prevents it from taking on a "set" where the belt is in contact with the pulleys. This works especially well if the machine will not be used for an extended period of time.


[This message has been edited by PolskiFran (edited 02-27-2005).]

Your Old Dog
02-27-2005, 11:06 PM
Here's a tip (Gawd I hope everyone don't know this one or I'm really gonna feel stupid! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif)

Want to make a perfect copy of the bottom of a complicated piece? You can measure till your blue in the face or do it this way.

1. Clean off the surface you want to copy.
2. Take a conventional small birthday candle and light it.
3. Hold the piece you want to copy at a 45 degree angle and play the flame to the metal till it leaves soot on the metal part.
4. Set it down and allow it to cool.
5. Take a piece of clear Scotch type tape and lay it carefully on the soot. Leave it there for safe keeping.

6, Now take the metal you want to transfer to and sand it to a 400 grit finish or Scothbrite pad it. Make sure it's clean. I use denatured alchohol.
7. Now put something like typist "Whiteout" solution on vary sparyingly and rub the surface briskley with your finger. This should leave you with a very thin whitish finish.

8. Now over that finish rub something, anything that will get tacky. You can use tung oil, a half drop of boiled lynseed oil or Birchwood Caseys stock finish oils. Rug it briskly till it gets warm and tacky.

9. Now take your scotch tape, set it in place and carefully lay it flat and then burnish it in with the back of a fingernail.

10. Carefully pull away the tape and you should have an absolute negative of the part.

11. If you need a positive instead just put a heaveier coat of soot one, put two pieces of tape stickey to stickey and one will be a negative and one will be a positive.

This is essentially a fingerprint of the part you have and is accurate down to the most minute detail if you don't overdo it on the soot. All of my engraved guns were smokeprinted. Some engravers call these "pulls" and some smokeprints.

It takes much longer to explain then it does to do! Finger print tape works good and 70mm splicing tape for the Holywood movie industry works best of all. The tape that works best is the one with the least amount of stickum so clear packing tape is not all that good but it will work.

Hope this tip gets me a book http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Your Old Dog
02-27-2005, 11:10 PM

I used to spray it with artist "fixatif" just a light dusting and it's extremely durable until you hit it with alcohol and it wipes right off. If you don't spray it its very fragile but still might allow you to make some center punch marks before it smudges off.

Good Luck (tomorrow, how to make hand engraving chisels! Unless of course I'm left feeling stupid over this post http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

02-28-2005, 02:46 AM
{{{tomorrow, how to make hand engraving chisels! }}}

dont hold out ray that sound cool http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

the olny engraving I have done is with a tattoo machine.

02-28-2005, 03:34 AM
........I didn't have a spray shield for my lathe when I got it, and I wanted one. Also the size and the weight of the removeable chipwell was a bit daunting. By actual measurement it was too large in all dimensions to go through the back door of the garage, and was heavy. Empty! So I made an intermediate one:


the frame is 3/4" conduit and Mig'd together. The sheetmetal was just pop riveted on. There are 2 legs off the back which merely clip onto the back wall of the chipwell.

It's narrow enough to turn sideways without tipping to get it through the door and almost light enough to hold out at arm's length.

I occasionaly replace my regular cross slide with a dual toolpost one. It's nice to be able to liftoff the shield and remove and replace the cross slides, rather then being required to lean across the lathe and blindly match dovetails.

Of course that option will only work if your lathe isn't backed up to a wall or other machine. It sure has worked well for me. That 'issue' chip pan is a weighty unwieldy beast!


Norman Atkinson
02-28-2005, 06:31 AM
Can I dedicate this to the many ladies at Christmas Parties who seem to have want to make an impression?

I switched the computer on, and simply put the object in the scanner( a spare mouse which was handy)and scanned in black and white.

Result? Well, try it.

The second is again a simple way to localise
brazing and silver soldering. Draw a thick pencil line on each side of where the joint has to end.

I simply gob smacked the examiner in my City and Guilds examination.

At nearly 75, I have any number of problems but seeing is one. I have a cheap microscope on my little S&B Pultra 10mm.

I have a dental mirror on my T&C grinder.

I use a piece of car body masking tape on my chunks of metal for cutting out on the bandsaw.

Hope that these help some other old fart


03-01-2005, 08:49 AM
Here is a great way to hold paralels in place use common metal banding bent to size to "clip"onto the vise jaws.
Another hint is to clean your mill before taking a pic.

[This message has been edited by IOWOLF (edited 03-01-2005).]

03-01-2005, 08:54 AM
OK here is another one.... use old golf balls as file handels,Just drill a 1/4" hole 3/4 of the way through and stick a file in. they make it easier to hang also.

Lew Hartswick
03-01-2005, 09:08 AM
Years go there use to be liquid center golf
balls. I wouldn' want to drill into one of

03-01-2005, 09:18 AM
Lew , your'e showin your age, it was the early 60's they quit that, and those should be in a museum not on files. some one told me the same thing about 15 years ago so I researched it.But a good tip Lew.

I was wondering will Vilage Press do the same with the second tips book, a freebe for the contributions that gets used?

[This message has been edited by IOWOLF (edited 03-01-2005).]

03-01-2005, 10:00 AM
I spent a week im hospital ....because of one of those liquid center golf balls
i was about nine at the time
and i was hacking into it with a stanley knife .......when i hit the liquid .....it came out with terrific force right into my eyes......i did not know that it had a liquid core.
all the best.mark

Allan Waterfall
03-01-2005, 10:33 AM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NORMAN ATKINSON:

I have a dental mirror on my T&C grinder.

A T&C grinder is for sharpening tools not dentures. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif


Norman Atkinson
03-01-2005, 11:38 AM

Have a look under your Stent T&C- you should find some teeth. What do you think that I have a dental mirror for?

And would the the rest of the Forum refrain from discussing what comes out of their balls.

Prostate sufferer

G.A. Ewen
03-01-2005, 12:16 PM
If you don't have a rotary table simple indexing can be done by turning a plug that fits the register of your lathe chucks. The plug should turn freely in the chuck without being loose. A ready rod connecting nut is used to fasten the plug to the milling table.


Put a bit of oil or light grease on the plug so that the chuck will turn without binding. A bolt and washer are then screwed into the connecting nut to act as a hold down.


In this case I needed three divisions so I used a bolt with a loose washer in the "T" slot as a fererence for the square. The square is then lined up with one of the chuck jaws.


The finished job.


Another way of holding the chuck between turns.


G.A. Ewen
03-02-2005, 09:12 AM
Ever try to get an "O" ring over a multiple grove shaft? Here is a handy tool that I picked up at a farm supply store. It is called an Elasticator. It works great for installing "O" rings and for customers that don't want to pay. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//eek.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif



03-02-2005, 10:07 AM
I might have mentioned this one before, but when I told it to the local community college shop teacher he was dumbfounded.

When I replace the vise on the milling machine I alternately favor one side or the other. That is so that over a period of time the table will wear more evenly.

03-02-2005, 10:22 AM
USE TAPE for the same thing for the O ring post,cover the grooves you want the Oring to go over with tape. But now that you have a castorator bander, Do not use it on your self.

charlie coghill
03-02-2005, 09:15 PM
Candle soot/smoke can be used in an emergency for prussian blueing (spell). We had a valve rod get bent on a small steam engine and used the soot to locate where the rod was binding in the packing nut and with some filing and tapping with a hammer we got it to work and finish the week end steamboating.

03-02-2005, 10:35 PM
I was drilling some holes last night in a piece of aluminum. Some of the holes intersected in the center of the aluminum bar. The last hole drilled caused a burr in the holes drilled before it. They were deep inside the block of aluminum, too far for my de-burring tool.

So I grabbed the drill bit and tried to twist it through the burr. It didn't work, the bit was too small and my hands were not strong enough. So I slipped the keyless drill chuck out of the tail stock and chucked the drill up. I was able to clean the burr off easily.

Worked great for holding a counter sink for taking the burr off the exit hole also. And for holding a tap to chase threaded holes.

There are many inexpensive keyless chucks out there today and they don't have to be expensive precision units if you use it solely as a large "pin vise". Get a 0-1/4", 0-1/2" and even a 1/8"-5/8" for the big stuff.



03-03-2005, 05:13 AM
Here is a tip that prevents bad backs. It was told to me by an old boilermaker friend of mine, Cliff, who I haven't seen in years.

When standing at your lathe, workbench or weld table etc, keep one foot raised and resting on an object such as a low box or similar. You will notice an immediate relief from any strain in your lower back region.
Up until my legs began to give up the ghost I practiced this advice and it served me well.
Remember the older pubs that all had a foot rail running the length of the bar? They sure made it easier to stand there supping the ale and no sore backs!....sore heads?? well thats another matter http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif.

cheers, Ken

G.A. Ewen
03-05-2005, 01:44 AM
This is my prefered method of making heavy duty washers. Chuck, center drill, and support shaft with live center. Use parting tool to cut shaft to just a little smaller than the diameter of the finished hole. (In the photo below the finished hole is 3/8" so the shaft was cut down to .350" with the parting tool) With the shaft supported by the tailstock chatter in not a problem with the parting tool.


Next, drill a small pilot hole and then drill the washers off with the finishing bit. (It is best to take them off one at a time as you drill them)



All that is left is to clean up the backside of the hole.


G.A. Ewen
03-11-2005, 08:29 AM
Evan, why not post your excellent method for stamping numbers on a dial?

Allan Waterfall
03-11-2005, 02:13 PM
If Evan doesn't post his, I'll post my simple fit all jig for stamping numbers.


03-27-2005, 04:36 PM
Here is another tip...
Use dowel pins in the slots for locators on the mill table 5/8" for Index,bridgeport,etc.
see picture.

And this is handy for reclaiming cutting oil. just a pipe 'T' in the already threaded hole in the back side of the mill table, The cut oil runs into it.

03-27-2005, 06:25 PM
I use a piece of used Plexi-glass for a back-board or back splash-behind my lathe. Keeps most of the chips and spray from getting to the wall.

I also make a splashguard for my mill/drill. It is a "U" shapped piece of Plex, about 3" tall, and 4" or so on each of the three legs. It's easy to squirt cutting fluid on the cutter thru the open side of the shield. I just sit the guard on the piece, and move it as the table moves along, to keep the cutter surrounded by the guard.

I also made a device to hold the guard in place, and the table moves. Basicly it's a Magnetic stand that attaches to the quill or machine head. Works great when milling small parts.

03-27-2005, 08:38 PM
o.k. here's a tip i haven't seen anywhere [if somebody else has posted this before please ignore] when you want to square a fairly large piece of plate in a milling machine with a fly cutter, insert plate in mill vice standing vertical, roughly square plate to mill head [ x axis ] fly cut till edge cleans up, rotate plate 90 degree's, then clamp a 1-2-3 or 2-4-6 block to previously machined edge with a soft faced wood working clamp,[ one handed bar clamps work well ] with the block clamped to the plate edge use a dial indicator to square 1-2-3/2-4-6 block to x axis to whatever tolerance you require,.001/.0001 ect. fly cut edge, rotate 90 degrees ect. repete till all 4 sides are done. 1-2-3/ 2-4-6 blocks are normally ground to within a few .0001's this work's just like a magnetic cyclinder square only 300-500$ cheaper.