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View Full Version : The Green Turd is in the shop!



torker
04-18-2005, 12:24 AM
After it quit pouring, the sun broke out and it turned out nice! Too nice, the help I was supposed to have to help unload the lathe all got mysteriously busy at the same time.
So I had to do it myself. Have nothing to hook onto to pull it in with so I had to pull it off with two come alongs.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/torker/6c76c1fb.jpg
For those that thought I was joking about welding a ramp to the trailer....heh heh
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/torker/DSC00006.jpg
This was the scary part (where I could have used some help)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/torker/81e8ddec.jpg
It took forever...had the engine hoist hooked on one end, had the tie straps anchored to the trailer. Wiggle the lathe and hoist ahead an eighth of an inch at a time for about an inch... then go back and loosen the tie straps another inch or so and so on until it was nearly on the floor.
Then I had to get the one end off the ramp...put a 1 1/4" rod through the base holes and jacked it up with two jacks...pull out the ramp and let er' down.
Is this thing ever dirty!
Not only did he spray oily crap all over it but he never cleaned off the original cosmoline/fishguts either.
Was a good thing though. Went through that ugly rainstorm and soaked it. I have a lot of it apart and cleaned now and can only find a couple of rusty fingerprints on the three jaw.
I've been checking it out some more. I think it may well be a kit. It isn"t made nearly as well as the busy bee machines i have> damn keyboard is stuck in lower case again
russ

hoffman
04-18-2005, 07:49 AM
Good job! Now post some pics that show the lathe better.

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Deep Sea Tool Salvage

torker
04-18-2005, 08:03 AM
hoffman....you kill me!!! "Deep Sea Iool Salvage" Good one!
I should have taken before and after pics! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//frown.gif

WJHartson
04-18-2005, 09:01 AM
That looks like the lathe that I have but mine is made in China. It was a kit, but once I went through it the lathe is now very good. One thing you should look at, On the head stock there is a note that says not to run the machine above 770 rpm in the "A" position. Believe it. You will strip a key in the headstock if you do. I went through the gearboxes, deburred everything and polished clearances on the moving parts and it now works like it should. Mine is a Grizzly, they don't sell it any more. If I can help you any let me know.

Joe

Michael Az
04-18-2005, 09:16 AM
Torker, just remember when your "helpers" need a little job done on the lathe, I would be too busy!
Michael

[This message has been edited by Michael Az (edited 04-18-2005).]

torker
04-18-2005, 02:13 PM
Thanks WJ! I'm sure I'll be wondering about something. The only warning I've seen so far is not to run the face plate over 1255rpm. I'll keep looking.
Michael. I hear you! These are the guys I do lots of free stuff for. You know the kind..."If you EVER need a hand, just call" I figured out what to call them all right!

Mike Burdick
04-18-2005, 11:56 PM
Come on Russ, like Hoffman said, lets see some picture of the lathe!

torker
04-19-2005, 12:29 AM
Maybe some pics tomorrow! I'm still trying to clean the sucker and figure the wiring out....in my spare time! I had two extra jobs tonight plus the prop drive thing I'm still trying to get done.
NOTE*NOTE*NOTE.....
There is a lesson here that I learned while unloading this lathe. I should have had him load it with the headstock at the back. It would have been far easier to unload. As it was, I couldn't even get close to the balance point (near the chuck) with the arm of the lift!
Russ

wierdscience
04-19-2005, 12:49 AM
Geez Russ,wish I were closer,no really I do.The last one that size I moved,me and a bud stuck two 2x4" under the ways edge up and carried it wheelbarrow style.
Wasn't but 400lbs apiece http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif Did I mention he is "healthy" like me? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

torker
04-19-2005, 01:40 AM
Darin...LOL!!!!I'm not quite healthy enough to lift this. It weighs around 1375 pounds. The pedestals are all cast iron and the fish guts/poggy protection unit add a lot more http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif The guy showed me all his bills for the thing and the shipping weight was 1535lbs gross with all the accessories and the crating etc.
Ha...I found another reason why the guy had such a time turning his pins. He had the toolbits mounted 1/4" below center.
When I first started to monkey with it, I was really piised at how rough everything felt. Then I noticed that nothing had ever been oiled. That's something I do like. It's got ball oilers for EVERYTHING. I think the idea is...you're actually supposed to shoot oil in them! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//frown.gif
The only thing I don't like so far is the cross slide is really sticky and rough, even when soaked with oil and adjusted properley. It's been hand scraped but it looks like it was scraped by a badger diggin a gopher out of his hole! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
Compare this too the silky smooth feel of my ol' SB and I see why you all like the old iron better. I'm sure this will get better after it's used a bit.
If it doesn't...it might make decent trading material http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Dr. Rob
04-19-2005, 03:21 AM
Dude... I admire your tenacity. Loaded & unloaded & put in place my lathe myself too. Weighs 1 1/2 - 2 tons. It is a LOT of work. A few inches at a time with come-alongs makes for a lot of up-down-back-forth-runnin'aroun'.

Congrats.

torker
04-19-2005, 07:37 AM
DR, Man I'm glad mine didn't weigh two tons! When I think of stuff that big, I think of floor anchors....or plane tickets for wierd http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

torker
04-19-2005, 07:56 PM
Here's a couple of reasonably crappy pics
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/torker/ec34bb9f.jpg
It's starting to get shiny and new!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/torker/85d2a1ad.jpg
It really is in fine shape! The paint is peeling in a couple of patches but I don't care.
I still haven't powered it up yet. Haven't had time to get a twist plug that I use for all my 220 stuff.

hoffman
04-19-2005, 08:30 PM
Man, I envy you! Looks like a nice machine and it has all the features I want, Feed screw separate from lead screw, spindle switch on the carriage, d-nose and a foot brake! Enjoy!!!

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Deep Sea Tool Salvage

sandman2234
04-19-2005, 08:40 PM
Nice lathe!
David from jax

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Have gun, will travel.

wierdscience
04-19-2005, 10:11 PM
Cast iron bases!Well hell why didn't you say so? Those are easy,just laso a rope around one base and pull the truck/trailer out from under it http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

torker
04-19-2005, 11:55 PM
weird...do you mean drop it? Like I did when it slipped off the jacks when I was getting the ramp out? Made a nice dead sounding THUMP! Ooops... I forgot to mention that before. Damn...I busted myself http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
It didn't fall too far...it only bent the spindle a half inch or so! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

smurph
04-20-2005, 03:18 AM
Wow! That is the same lathe as my Kent 1340A except my coolant system is a little bit more "built in", the color is grey, it has a worklight, and it has a front unloading chip pan.

Here are some things you may find helpful:

It will run on 110v with some wiring changes but I kept mine at 220v. Make sure the transformer in the control box is grounded properly if you have start problems.

I shucked the tool post in favor of a BXA Phase II QC. It surprises me little that the previous owner had the bit 1/4" below center, as the current tool post has no height adjustment. I guess you could shim a tool bit to the right height or maybe use some of the lantern style tool bit holders, but yuck!

My first project on my lathe was to make new knobs for the spindle speed levers, as mine were broken off during shipping. I fear that the rest of the knobs will not last long, as they are very brittle and are impossible to keep tight. 8mm x1.25

On the base stands, you will find a circular sheet metal cover that swings to uncover a through hole on both ends of the stands that can be used to position the lathe with the use of a length of bar stock and a strap.

You should have several change gears, a bunch of small gears and 2 big middle gears with ball bearings at 85 teeth and 120/127 teeth. I made an extra bushing for the the middle gears that makes swaping between the 85 tooth and the 120/127 tooth gears easier. I can now change the gears from inches per rev to TPI in under a minute.

After I got my lathe level and used it a time or two, I had to adjust the tail stock because I ended up turning a slight taper. I guess things had to settle in. Since that initial adjustment, I have seen no more movement. (And I check it often. OCD, you know...) Maybe the set screws on the tail stock were loose.

I chose to install a master power switch on my lathe, as some of the relays are always under power even when the spindle motor is off.

There is an ajustment bushing for the cross slide acme nut height (set screw on the right side of the apron, between the ways.) that may help your cross slide stiffness problem. Mine was pulled up too high and it bowed the acme screw up ever so slightly and made for a stiff travel. Lossen the bushing set screw and the bolt securing the acme nut and whack the bushing with a rubber mallet to loosen it up. Then move the cross slide forwards and backwarks, tighten the mounting bolt, and tighten the set screw. Mine freed right up. I found that I could tighten the cross slide gib up a little more after that to get things really sturdy. My guess is that the bushing was originally installed in the cross slide and the set screw tightened before the cross slide was installed on the apron.

Have fun with your new lathe! I know you will. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif



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That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

torker
04-20-2005, 08:06 AM
Thanks smurph! I hope you're right about the cross slide. I had it off and should have clued in when I put it back, the feed screw seemed hard to line up.
The tailstock....ha..on this one, it slides sideways about 1/2". the screws where this loose from the factory. They are still buried in paint and have never been turned. I have to adjust all that yet also.
This one can be run on 110 also. It's setup for 220 but the 110 requires a 25 amp breaker.
I did a quick check last night and the run out 6" out on a piece of drill rod was a little over .001. Not bad for a three jaw I guess. I never use three jaws much anymore so it'll be ok....sitting on the shelf http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
I tried to take pics of the wiring last night just to cofirm that it was ok but they wouldn't turn out good enough to read. I'll try later.
Thanks for the live wire info. I'm going to look into a sparate switch then.
This has an "inching" button on it...I'm assuming it's a jog button.
I've been eyeing up the tail end pedastal. Looks like I could cut a window in it and use it to put a coolant tank in. Funny, they have three doors on the head end and none in the tail end.
Russ