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Alistair Hosie
07-01-2005, 10:26 AM
I have just changed the felts in my lathe I.E way felts for lubrication the seven out of eight went ok till the last one the screws came out easyish except the last one it will not budge I tried everything it is a hex head with little room for manoeuvre around my lathe very small size about 4mm any ideas Alistair

Swarf&Sparks
07-01-2005, 10:38 AM
Try heat with a high-ish powered soldering iron (not the electronic variety). Touch of solder on the tip and apply to screw head.
Worked for me in analogous situations.
Rgds, Lin

3 Phase Lightbulb
07-01-2005, 11:21 AM
If you can wack the heads of screws without damaging them, that might help unfreeze them a little bit. Maybe try and soak the felt with penitrating oil and hope some if it finds it way into the thread(s).

-Adrian

ibewgypsie
07-01-2005, 11:37 AM
Impact driver, put the proper bit in, it jars the screw threads loose as it drives the bit in to maintain contact with slot-phillips-allen- head bit.. A threaded screw wants to unbind it's torque tension by running uphill on the threads the more polished a thread is the easier it is to unscrew. You can take a piece of conduit, rap the coupling and it will unscrew to where you can turn it off by hand.
Only harleys have enough vibratory harmonics to self-dissassemble themselves. Ohh yeah used bolts.. polished by assembly-reassembly fall outa them.. gotta use chalk on the threads or locktite..

Surprised 3ph: didn't know that. They (impact drivers) are a must for Jap bike riders who work on thier bikes. The screws all have cheese materiel heads. I have one about 30 years old where I had a honda 750..

David

ibewgypsie
07-01-2005, 11:46 AM
About the title: I was expecting a midget woman with a bad attitude. HA..

I have used a spring loaded -push punch to drive screw around that I twist the phillips center out of.. angle it to drive the edge around.. but that was after I had K-o'ed the phillips head.. USE the right screwdriver to start with... don't accept a almost fits..

Alistair Hosie
07-01-2005, 11:48 AM
Hey Dave I feel that I myself am about to self dissasemble without harmonics http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gifAlistair

3 Phase Lightbulb
07-01-2005, 11:49 AM
Yup, an impact driver is a must for removing case screws. I've replaced all the case screws on my GS-750 (Psychokart) with allen heads so I don't need to mess with the impact wrench. They sell lots of different bolt kits to convert all of the older bikes to stainless/allen heads.

Don't use the impact driver on small screws like the ones that hold the felts on. #1, the impact driver might just shear the head off, and #2, the bits are probably too big to fit anyway. The impact driver should only be used for screw head BOLTS.

-Adrian

3 Phase Lightbulb
07-01-2005, 12:46 PM
Hey Dave, if you still have your Honda 750, a kit like this is well worth it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4552436686

This guy sells kits for most bikes and they are very nice sets.

-Adrian

ibewgypsie
07-01-2005, 01:32 PM
Nahh 3ph: after I put the pops Yoshimura 812 kit, the rc engineering header, the daytona cam, the denselube superchain, the bigger valves and springs, titanium retainers. I totalled it three times. It is gone like a do-do bird.

It produced by calculation 100 hp.. you know about 2/3 what your bike does now factory stock and about a time and half the weight? (or did if I know you) It self-destructed quite a few times, once the clutch took a piece off my ankle after it exploded and shrapneled the clutch case. Chain pierced the case 3 times, spokes left the rear wheel four times, sprocket bolts sheared twice, sprocket hub disintergrated once, lemme think.. yeah, and it kept on spinning that tire most the time I rode it.

Accelerating mass like my big butt can destroy anything.

Funny memories of it? I ran it off the road and through the woods, hitting small trees and shearing them off at the ground, finally hit a log and went airborne, wrapped around a limb about twelve feet up, flipped over, landed on my butt, sat up and swallowed a filling out of one of my teeth. I got up, broken collar bone and all, dragged the bike to the road, tried to kick start it, no carburetors, no gas tank, no headlight,No seat, handlebars crossed up, rear wheel flatten'd out with a log jammed in the frame mashing the rim up against the hub.. It didn't start for some reason.

I learned all about broken collar bones. Lost dexterity and movement in my arm for about a month or two. As a bouncer if someone splattered my nose I'd break thiers one at a time till they didn't really want to fight anymore.

Ohh yeah, stubborn screw.. Wasn't that a midget porno? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Your Old Dog
07-01-2005, 02:04 PM
My impact driver is too large for really small screws. What I do is get two hands on a good sharp screwdriver (not worn out blade) and bear all my weight on it and turn it while someone keeps rapping the top of the screw driver. I've had real good luck with that technique. The screwdriver must be in good shape thou or you just mess up the screw head. On lock-tited screws I use a old screwdriver in the head and a small propane torch to the screwdriver blade for about 1 or 2 minutes. As soon as the loctite gets mushy it comes right out. Good luck.

Ray.........
PS Use good sharp raps, don't whimp out on the hammer.

[This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 07-01-2005).]

3 Phase Lightbulb
07-01-2005, 02:19 PM
My 100% stock '04 GSXR 750 weighs 360lbs and has 127HP. I weight around 150 so total weight is around 500 lbs. It's like going for a ride on a sidewinder missile. 0-60mph is around 2 seconds.

For comparison, the stock 1980 CB750 weighs 564lbs and has 77HP. Add rider weight ontop of 564lbs and you could be in the 800lb range.

Stopping power is another story all together http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif Only need two fingers on my front brake and my rear wheel comes off the ground like a feather.

If I get bored of my GSXR750, there is always the GSXR1000 which has 180HP and weights only 5 pounds more http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif That's like riding two sidewinder missiles (One strapped to each leg) http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

-Adrian

ibewgypsie
07-01-2005, 02:24 PM
3ph:

that'd probably killed me, Since I didn't have enough sense "not to use" all the power I had.

I'd like to build a 3 wheeler like the Shrike w/superbike Jap pusher. They say since you can Open them all the way up it is faster than just the plain bike.

THE actual hp, by 1/4 mile acceleration times of the CB750 was 50-55hp. That's on the ground. Weight sounds about right for it for what I remember.

3 Phase Lightbulb
07-01-2005, 02:53 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ibewgypsie:
3ph:

that'd probably killed me, Since I didn't have enough sense "not to use" all the power I had.

I'd like to build a 3 wheeler like the Shrike w/superbike Jap pusher. They say since you can Open them all the way up it is faster than just the plain bike.

THE actual hp, by 1/4 mile acceleration times of the CB750 was 50-55hp. That's on the ground. Weight sounds about right for it for what I remember.</font>

If you want speed and acceleration then you need a high power to weight ratio, and low air resistance. A shrike would have a terrible power to weight ratio, and excessive air resistance. It could be considered fast, but only relative to maybe a HD with two side cars http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

Is this the kind of shrike you want to make? This one does a whopping 100mph http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

http://www.maxmatic.com/Graphics/shrike3.jpg

1/4 mile times are meaningless on a motorcycle. If I use the clutch when I'm shifing on my bike, I'll throw the 1/4 time and speed way off. If I clutchless shift then I'll get a significantly faster time and gate speed. Also, the start is more imporntant than anything else and that's hard to get consistant.

HP on a motorcycle is best measured on a Dyno where all the operator has to do is feed the throttle and let the computer map the RPM and Torqe curve then derive the HP from that.

-Adrian

ibewgypsie
07-01-2005, 04:29 PM
That looks like the "first one".. successive models built by various people are faster, larger bikes pushing them. I remember one with a carbon fiber monique *spelling? frame of aluminum sheeting. The one you pictured had a 500cc engine of "old design" if I remember.

The long leverage frontal anchor more than offsets the additional weight disadvantage. Is what I remember it saying. In other words it don waste it's energy on silly wheelies.

What else was neato? the Oldsmobile prototype they made in the 80s with the ducted airflow. At corners the panels would open ducting air down force on the chassis. It lapped indy cars with a stock 200hp quad-4 engine. It is illegal for indy cars to use such apparatus thou so they told me. Imagine driving that down the interstate at 200mph?

David

3 Phase Lightbulb
07-01-2005, 04:48 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ibewgypsie:
The long leverage frontal anchor more than offsets the additional weight disadvantage. Is what I remember it saying. In other words it don waste it's energy on silly wheelies.</font>

That's crazy talk! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif The only energy wasted with a wheelie is increased wind resistance due to more exposure to the relative wind. A wheelie transfers more weight to the rear wheel and improves traction even more. If you want to really torque the hell out of that rear wheel comming out of a corner, get all the weight on it!

http://www.bbssystem.com/wheelie.jpg

-Adrian

3 Phase Lightbulb
07-01-2005, 05:45 PM
Oh, and if you want to give your rear wheel a rest, don't use it!

http://www.bbssystem.com/stoppie.wmv

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

-Adrian

ibewgypsie
07-01-2005, 07:47 PM
A darned 200 mph unicycle? Now that's crazy..

(he he)

David

Duct Taper
07-02-2005, 01:12 PM
Getting back to the question of removing stuck screws.... I have found that using cold to shrink instead of using heat works good and doesn't risk damage from the heat.

There are aerosol cans available from machine suppliers that will freeze stuff. One brand is "Freez-It". You just spray it on the stuck screw until it gets frosty so it shrinks and then it comes out easily. I have also use it for shrinking bushings so that they install easier. You can even get aerosol cans now in the drugstore that are sold to freeze warts.

Alistair Hosie
07-02-2005, 02:20 PM
Persevered today and got it ,at last I had eight to do altogether about thirty srews all went quite well except the last one would you believe but today I put it into the hole tapped it lightly with a minature brass hammer and it worked ok at last.It's always the last one that beats you isn't it,thanks guys for imput Alistair

jim davies
07-05-2005, 12:26 AM
For a moment I thought Alistair knew my X-wife

Alistair Hosie
07-05-2005, 04:16 AM
Naughty naughty http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gifAlistair