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View Full Version : got the slitting saw, now how to hold the shaft



andy_b
08-18-2005, 08:47 PM
i acquired a slitting saw (thanks, you know who you are) and made up a mandrel to hold it in the mill. the brass rod won't be here for a few more days (UPS workers are a bunch of dumb arses - like you wouldn't notice a 4' long piece of brass rolling around on the floor).

so how do i hold this rod to make the cut in it? yes, i am going to go for the slot in the rod instead of just milling the section out. if it doesn't work i have plenty of extra rod and an endmill to cut it. if someone could post a pic of how to set this up, as i am a newbie to this type of procedure. i do not have a set of vee-blocks at present, but i DO have a shaper and some time.

thanks for any opinions.

andy b.

snowman
08-18-2005, 08:58 PM
how long is the slit?

andy_b
08-18-2005, 10:03 PM
it is a 1/4"x3" shaft that needs a slit about 1.2" long or so near the middle. i have a slitting saw about 1.5" diameter to make the cut (run half way through and flip shaft 180 degrees and cut halfway through from the other side).

i'm thinking of finding some scrap metal and cutting a shallow vee in it with the shaper and going from there. i think tomorrow morning i will head to the junkyard and see what i can see.

andy b.

wierdscience
08-18-2005, 11:21 PM
Horizonal or vertical mill and are you using a vise?

If it's a vert.mill and you have a vise,all you do is put a section of the rod flat down in the bottom of the jaws with enough sticking out past the side to make your part.

Next chuck up your arbor and saw and bring the saw down until it just touches the top of the rod with the side of the saw.Lock the quill and crank the table over until the saw is clear of the rod.
Now some math,assuming you want the flap slit in the center of the rod,you want to add 1/2 the rod diamter + 1/2 the saw thickness which gives you the amount to crank the mill table up.So as an example,say it's a .030" saw and a .250" shaft,you would add .015"(half the saw thickness) and .125"(half the rod diameter) and the result would be .140"
That should put the saw on center.After that spin the saw up,hit the teeth with a little WD40 and take your time feeding in til you reach max depth.Then just back out,walk the table around to the backside and plunge though at the same setting.
Hope this helps.

SGW
08-19-2005, 05:34 PM
I think your shallow Vee idea, with a couple of clamps out at the ends to hold the rod in the Vee, would probably work. I assume you'll cut the Vee in the block along one edge, so it will stick up out of the vise and give clearance for holding the rod and doing the slit....

JCHannum
08-19-2005, 06:37 PM
Wierdscience pretty much has it described. Slit the shaft, then cut to length, this will give you something to hang on to.

Use a vise or v block, and support the outboard end. A machinist's jack and a clamp will serve for that purpose. It is easier to move the saw than rotate & re-index the part.

andy_b
08-19-2005, 09:09 PM
thanks guys!!!

it is a horizontal mill with a vertical head attachment.

the vertical head can be positioned vertically, horizontally, or any range of about 130 degrees. i turned the head so the the stub arbor i made was horizontal. i was going to make one cut and rotate the rod i am cutting. after reading what you guys wrote, i now see an easier method (keep the head vertical and cut from one side of the rod, then lower the table and move it to cut the other side of the rod).

THIS is the reason i love this forum.

i was trying to do the machining by having me do the work and not the machine. believe it or not, this is a real eye-opener for me as the hobbies i've been involved with previously depended more on the human coming up with a way to do something instead of using the machine at hand to do it.

thanks again!!!! this gives me a whole new way to look at things. it also means this project just got a lot easier.

andy b.