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Alistair Hosie
08-26-2005, 04:40 PM
My new chopsaw comes complete with suds pump I only recently got blades for it and tried it.I cannot switch it on without the suds pump coming on they are linked so that one does not work without the other. This question is basically an appendage to my previous question about pumps but is it dangerous to use this without suds in the reserviour.I am constantly worried about it getting rusty with my inexpeience possibly I am a bit anxious . I have only used it twice and each time onece was brass and the other was mild steel .It cut beautifully and did not seem to heat up to much as it runs very slowly,(It is Geared that way)should I be worried and always use suds or keep going taking it easy.?Alistair

CCWKen
08-26-2005, 06:33 PM
After reading this post, your "suds pump" makes more sense to me now. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Your coolant also helps keep chips from flying everywhere. As already stated in the other post, I wouldn't run the pump dry. I doubt that it uses a magnetic impeller, for obvious reasons, so the shaft seals must rely on coolant for lubrication.

There should be lots of choices for coolant that have anti corrosion properties.

aboard_epsilon
08-26-2005, 06:50 PM
Think alistairs chop saw uses a "car type" old fashioned fuel pump as a suds pump.
This is what I see on other peoples chop saws in metal fab shops.
then again I could be wrong about alistairs saw.
these are a difragm type pump .lever opperated
all the best.mark

CCWKen
08-26-2005, 06:58 PM
If it is a diaphram pump, there shouldn't be too much problem running it dry on occasion. My concern be the "valves". Button, ball or reed, they all wear faster when dry.

Any way to add another switch for the pump?

[This message has been edited by CCWKen (edited 08-26-2005).]

Alistair Hosie
08-27-2005, 07:43 AM
Its an electricly operated pump not lever Alistair

NiftyNev
08-27-2005, 07:57 AM
I'm guessing that you sometimes want to cut without the fluid pumping onto the job.If you do then just install some type of two way valve in the fluid line so you can do this.You will then have the choice of using or not using the fluid and still have the pump protected with the fluid recirculating.

Nev

[This message has been edited by NiftyNev (edited 08-27-2005).]

[This message has been edited by NiftyNev (edited 08-27-2005).]

Ries
08-27-2005, 11:26 AM
I dont know if running the pump dry will ruin it. But I do know if you use the right stuff in your coolant, then you wont have to worry about rust.
I use my coolant pump all the time on my german cold saw, and I never have any problems with it beyond the parts being wet.
I use a cold saw coolant/lube I get from Haberle here in the US, which gets mixed about 20 to 1 with water. So a gallon of it will last the rest of your life. It does not rust, and it wipes off easily. I usually let small parts drain for a minute or two on top of the saw, so the coolant goes down into the sump again.
I am sure that in the UK you can buy a gallon of the right stuff, and if you use it, you might even like it.

Peter S
08-27-2005, 06:21 PM
Alistair,

I guess you have the type with high speed steel blade? (sometimes known as a cold saw or an Eisele saw).

They are are great, but the blades are expensive, at least in the sizes around 300-400mm dia.

We always use coolant, rusting is just not a problem.

If you really don't want coolant, why not fit a switch to the pump motor? I would still recommend some kind of cutting oil though, for blade life. There is a good reason why the coolant pump comes on with the blade motor.....its not an option in a production situation.

We have two 'Startrite' saws, one is working all day every day. It is quite easy to break a blade (but a careful person may never break one). Generally only one person does all the sawing, otherwise there are too many breakages.

BTW, the 2nd saw is kept for sawing angles.

It is important not to keep using a blunt blade, this is usually when teeth clog and chip and breaks occur.

Depending on your vice, the other common problem is when someone tries to cut a short piece of steel - ours have a double vice and the short end can tilt and jam between the blade and vice as the cut is completed, once again a broken blade.

These blades can be re-sharpened for years, they just keep recutting the teeth.

You can get different numbers of teeth, I can't remember the numbers now, but it pays to get one that works well for the majority of your work, because no one can be bothered changing blades...

Another important thing that 'makes' these machines (if you are handling long lengths of material) is to have decent tables (eg rollers) either side of the saw.

With the rollers level, and a permanent backstop down the length of the rollers, set parallel to the vice, you can get very nice square cuts without any trouble.

[This message has been edited by Peter S (edited 08-27-2005).]