View Full Version : copper pipe

08-31-2005, 01:02 PM
I have an unusal problem. My garden hose spigot was leaking, so I tried to remove it from it's threading fitting. But instead of coming loose at the threads, it came loose at the sweat fitting inside the wall. I had to cut a piece of sheet rock out of the wall to get at the pipe fittings. The pipes and fittings are half inch rigid copper. The problem is the water source pipe comes from underground and it sticks out only about four inches above the cement floor. And to aggrivate the situation, it stands at a little offset to 90 degrees and was imbedded in concrete. What I would like to do is create an offset in a piece of half inch copper pipe about 30 inches long so the pipe will run paralell to the wall. It is that length because I wish to place the spigot higher on the outside wall. In order to get water back to the house, I capped off the underground pipe with a small piece of copper pipe in a compression union. I opted for this method because of the pipe being so close to the ground , I couldn't remove enough water to do a sweat fitting.
Will I be able to create this offset by heating the pipe and maybe use a half inch conduit bender. I know this not the correct tool for the job, but I thought it might work since the offset is small

08-31-2005, 01:28 PM
pepecon did you ever consider using the copper pipe that comes in coils? It's alittle softer and made to bend by hand.

08-31-2005, 01:31 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I know this not the correct tool for the job, but I thought it might work since the offset is small[/B]</font>

If you intend to use a piece of half inch rigid copper pipe, the diameter won't fit in the conduit bender unless it's for rigid pipe. Benders for EMT would not be the right size, although you could use a 3/4" EMT bender for 1/2" copper with success.

You need not heat the pipe to bend it, especially if you need a slight offset, but if you choose to do so, heat the pipe where you intend to bend it to a dull red and allow it to cool, either by plunging in water, or simply allowing it to air cool, then you can make the bend by hand very easily. Once the work hardened condition of copper is removed, it's not hard to bend. You can do it over your knee, or even free hand, with no trouble at all.

Good luck!


08-31-2005, 01:46 PM
I'm not a plumber. Bending the tubing, it is likely to kink/collapse. You could try it though. It is difficult for me to envision exactly what you are looking to do without actually seeing it first hand. I see a stump in the floor away from the wall. You should be able to get enough water out of the underground tubing to make a sucessful repair. Use a siphon or, if you want to take a shower, compressed air to evacuate enough water from the line. Dry the inside of the tubing then shove some bread down into the line, it will act as a temporary plug to prevent seeping of water into the work area. When the work is complete, the turning on of the water supply will soften up the bread and force it out of the line. What I would do is: Sweat a 90* or 45* onto the stump in the floor over to the wall, 90* or 45* up the wall. I would use a union somewhere between the new work the encased tubing, just in case something happens in the future. How far away from the wall is the tubing coming out of the floor?

3 Phase Lightbulb
08-31-2005, 01:54 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2"> I couldn't remove enough water to do a sweat fitting. </font>

Try one of those really long crazy straws http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif

08-31-2005, 02:29 PM
Just another tip for sweating copper - use a piece of white bread. Stick it in the pipe and let it soak up the water while you sweat the fitting. The white bread will disolve in the water in a short time.

Last Old Dog
08-31-2005, 03:11 PM
There are several connection schemes you can use to extend this line. Assuming this water line is tubing rather than pipe, employing a ‘swing joint’ can redirect the extension in any direction to re-center it in the wall. Frequently this is done with a 90* el and a 90* street el soldered into the first. Play with some fittings at the store to acquaint yourself with the proper scheme.

The new line should be rigid tubing, not the annealed flexible type, and, it should be firmly strapped to a stud or horizontal bridging. The stub exiting the wall must be well supported to prevent future plumbing damage inside the wall. After you have plugged the line, don’t open any fixture above (higher) than the repair area lest water run backwards through the line and flood your work area.

Water in the pipe can be withdrawn with piece of tubing attached to your wife’s best turkey baster. Whilst soldering in a wall, be very careful of fire hazard, sawdust, and other construction debris can smolder for many hours seemingly undetected. Good luck, you’ll do fine. Last Old Dog

Not affiliated with the respected 'Your Old Dog'

[This message has been edited by Last Old Dog (edited 08-31-2005).]