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Mike P
08-31-2005, 05:04 PM
Hey guys,

I'm making a new trigger for a co-worker's 22 cal. target rifle. He's provided me with drawings of what he wants made differently, but I don't have the actual trigger to measure.

The top end of the trigger has serrations that appear to mate into those on the trigger mounting block.

The question is...are these serrations specific to each gun and manufacturer, or are they just random serrations or grooves? Do they really mate, precisely, into mirror image serrations in the trigger block??

Mike P

Lynn Standish
08-31-2005, 05:13 PM
They are typically specific to manufacturer and model. I'd be very circumspect about taking on a job like that, even if he is your friend -- someone's widow might want to sue anyway.

You might get better results posting your question here:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=16

BillH
08-31-2005, 08:13 PM
Let me guess, his trigger has an alteration to the way it engages the sear?

JCHannum
08-31-2005, 08:42 PM
I suspect it is a trigger that is adjustable for pull such as found on a match rifle.

The serrations are probably specific to the manufacturer, and mate to corresponding serrations on the sear mechanism.

[This message has been edited by JCHannum (edited 08-31-2005).]

andy_b
08-31-2005, 09:12 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BillH:
Let me guess, his trigger has an alteration to the way it engages the sear?</font>


i'm with Bill. it is probably a semi-auto target rifle.
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif

andy b.

CCWKen
08-31-2005, 10:27 PM
I need to make just a trigger guard for a semi-auto. Can you get into trouble for that? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif

Mike P
09-01-2005, 06:21 AM
I posted over on the gunsmithing forum of PM.

It is a match rifle, but I don't think he's modified the trigger action in any way. He'd like to try a straight trigger instead of one that is curved. So I said i'd try to make him one.

The serrations may be my downfall, however, if they're truly critical to the operation of the trigger.

Mike P

Paul Gauthier
09-01-2005, 07:15 AM
The serrations are probably the engagement surfaces for the sear, and they are critical in location and angle. My advice, don't do it.

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Paul G.

Paul Gauthier
09-01-2005, 07:16 AM
The serrations are probably the engagement surfaces for the sear, and they are critical in location and angle. My advice, don't do it.

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Paul G.

meho
09-01-2005, 07:38 AM
Mike,

If your friend wants an adjustable trigger length and/or cant here are a couple of alternate ways to do it.

Scroll down to the Walther trigger and see how it is mounted on the assembly. Also scroll farther down and look at the Kenyon.
http://www.nealjguns.com/ss_store/UsedTrigger.html

Here is a pic of an Anschutz trigger:
https://www.championshooters.com/cgibin/webc.cgi/triggers.htm

Its in the middle of the page. I have two of them. This trigger is adjustable for cant and length by the way it's mounted on a round mount and not a dovetail or serrations.

Hope this helps.

James

[This message has been edited by meho (edited 09-01-2005).]

ulav8r
09-01-2005, 07:43 AM
"CCWKen I need to make just a trigger guard for a semi-auto. Can you get into trouble for that? "

Not if you don't keep the gun while the owner leaves the premises. As long as the owner has control of the gun, you can make any accessories or modifications desired.

Mike P
09-01-2005, 10:06 AM
The rifle is a Sako TRG-22. It's imported by Beretta amd it's a .308 caliber. It is a match rifle.

But....

The existing trigger is not the normal pivoting type of arrangement where the trigger actually contacts the sear and performs the release. This trigger is plastic/composite, and is bolted to a trigger mounting block that takes care of all the mechanical functions.

The serrations on the top end of the trigger appear to just hold it in place on the bottom of the mounting block.

Mike P

Your Old Dog
09-01-2005, 10:15 AM
I'm not whimpy about doing these types of projects but let me warn you, screwing wound with the sear is not good if you aren't an accomplished gunsmith.

I am not an acccomplished but thought I was good with my hands. I reworked the triggor on a S&W 27 till I felt beautifull. It was the end of the day hunting and I wanted to touch off a couple of rounds into a target, I cocked the hammer and it fell on its own. I don't full with triggors anymore only to clean up an edge. I would beg off of it if I were you.

Some buyers are savvy enough of the problem to check used guns for "push off" by pressing forward on a cocked triggor with their thumb. The gun shop that bought mine purchased it less the price of a new triggor!

[This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 09-01-2005).]

Paul Alciatore
09-01-2005, 11:16 AM
As per several other comments above, I would be very cautious of any firearm projects. There may be design features that neither you nor your friend are aware of that could be safety problems. If an accident occurs and even if the part that you make is in no way responsible, could not in any way be responsible for that accident, lawyers have a strange way of argueing things. I wouldn't take on any firearm projects, even if I never touch or even see the firearm, unless I had full insurance coverage. And I do mean FULL. JMHO.

Paul A.

C9
09-02-2005, 10:00 AM
What do you think about getting a extra trigger, cutting off the curved finger portion, making a straight piece to replace that and using JB Weld to tie the two pieces together?

Or perhaps something along the lines of a couple of very small set screws for retainment along with red Loctite where the new trigger seats onto the stub of the old trigger?

That way, no fitting problems with serrations etc.

tonydacrow
09-02-2005, 11:31 AM
My suggestion is DON'T DO IT!

Why? Even if you do the best job in the world, someone who doesn't know guns from hen's teeth is eventually going to pick it up and shoot his neighbor in the head with it. You will then be sued for creating a dangerous "hair" trigger condition. You didn't make a "hair" trigger, you say? Prove it. Best case scenario is $65,000 in legal fees later, you will be proven correct. Worst case, you will lose your shop, home, bank accounts, wife and dog.

Probable scenario is your lawyer will take $45,000 and get you to settle for another $40,000 - $50,000 because you're not certified as a gunsmith and a jury will find you negligent because of that. Since you're not licensed as a gunsmith, your insurance will not cover you and you will eat all of that cost.

How much is this guy going to pay you? It doesn't matter because it isn't enough. You're doing it because he's your friend? He won't be once the lawyers get involved. Walk away from this one...