View Full Version : Anyone merge an Elec. Lift to a Trolley

08-25-2005, 07:19 PM
I just picked up one of these today (1300lbs).


and want to mount it to one of these (2-ton):


Yeah I know, another project. Did you bolt the lift to a plate to hang from the trolley? I'd like to make the lift "solid" with the trolley. Any ideas?

08-25-2005, 09:18 PM
Hi Ken,

Some day I hope to build a floor gantry. One thing I have been keeping in mind is that you loose a lot of hight the conventional way of hanging everything under the I beam.

One thought I came up with was perhaps to use 2 smaller section I beams or perhaps RHS and run the trolly on top with the lift in between.

Bit more work, but to maintain usable hight it may be worth it.

Don't know how robust the frame is on that hoist but perhaps using the above idea the trolly could mount to the side of it, turned inside out sort of thing.


[This message has been edited by zl1byz (edited 08-25-2005).]

Your Old Dog
08-25-2005, 09:50 PM
I have the 800lb version of what you have. I decided not to use the trolly concept because I didn't know if I could maintain level so I wouldn't have a run-away-load on the lift.

I made a swing out beam that is mounted up on second floor of the barn. I can lift any anything needed off the second floor of the barn and lower it to pickup truck or utnilty trailer down below.

I can post a pic if you think it might be of interest to you.

BTW, if I were going to use the trolly setup, I'd give it a decided incline so I could control the horizontal motion of the load with a second winch of the hand operated boat winch variety. (not my idea, saw a vault carrier at the cemetary and that's how they do it. The load is always under control and gravity can't influence it.)

[This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 08-25-2005).]

08-25-2005, 10:25 PM
I built a barn, hung the Ibeam at 8feet and thought? great..

Then, the floor washed out with a flood, then I filled it in, then the Ibeam was at 7feet or so. I built a Dealie that hooked like a J and hung it on my trolley, I could stand in front of the car and crank the boat winch, the cable went through two pulley before going down to the engine.. No chain beating up fenders, neat. It'd pull the engine hook right up to the beam, plenty of clearance.

Not sure what you are wanting to do? take the pin out, fit it to your Ibeam and make a hook for the winch up tight or like I did with a extension to save on overhead.

I got one of them trolleys, I had two tons hanging on the one ton chain hoist from it. I could swing on the chain as I lifted. The hoist held, and the trolley held. I had the whole 54 ford hanging on it while clipping it. Then I put that special truck jack under the rear.

08-25-2005, 10:53 PM
The air operated ones we had at work had either a welded lug on top or a hook that connected to the trolley.

If height is going to be an issue, how about splitting the trolley up and putting half on each end of the red bracket. It would be a lot of work to save 4"-6".

08-25-2005, 11:36 PM
My gantry is 10' high and I've been using a chain hoist on the trolley. I don't think a few inches +/- would make much difference. I think the chain hoist uses more space. As David says, I don't like the chain fall banging against fresh paint or old paint for that matter. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

I was thinking of duplicating the center hanger on the trolley but move them to the outside of it's frame. I haven't opened the box on the lift yet but if it has those brackets for the "bar", I could run a bar through them and the trolley's hangers. That might work until I come up with a better way.

I'll have to see how much space there is between the red frame and motor/spool. If I can get bolts in the sides, I may just bolt it to the trolley frame sides.

Added: I now see JPR that I'd probably have to beef up the frame on the hoist since the spacers and bolt on the trolley is what keeps the wheels on the beam. The hoist frame may be to thin to handle the spreading forces. May leave the trolley bolt and make hangers on the side to attach the hoist frame.

[This message has been edited by CCWKen (edited 08-25-2005).]

08-26-2005, 12:15 AM
Seems lke all you need is a couple of pieces of heavy angle, like lintel bar.

Drill a centered hole on one leg of each to go over the trolley's clamp bolt.
Then drill holes in the other leg to match the bolt holes on top of the hoist, where those ridiculous straps are mounted.

You may want to drill a couple of smaller holes through the trolley and angle to place bolts to prevent the hoist from swinging on the clamp bolt. But I wouldn't.

08-26-2005, 01:35 AM

I'll try to take a picture of how I mated those exact two parts when I get to work tommorrow. Basically I used a 1 inch plate, milled a slot for a vertial piece with a hole in it and bolted and welded the vertical piece to the plate. The eyelet hole is directly in line with the hoist cable. I then added weight to the opposite side of the plate so the hoist would hang level when unloaded. We use it to lift 800-1000lb rolls of 10 mil brass off of our coating machine and it works great.

-Christian D. Sokolowski

Rick Rowlands
08-26-2005, 06:09 PM
I have one of these hoists that I had to hang from a cable. The HF hoist is not balanced over the drum so I had to add a counterweight to the one side to straighten it up.

I would remove the bolt and mount a piece of angle to each of the vertical sides of the trolley. Mount one leg to each plate with the other leg horizontal. Then drill holes in the angles so you can bolt the winch to the angles. Then you have a solid attachment and the off balance condition isn't going to affect the operation of the trolley any. This also gets you about as much vertical clearance as possible with an underhung trolley arrangement.

In my application with this type of hoist I have it hung from a beam in the roof of the third floor and I lift items from the ground floor up to the second and third floors. Its a real pain keeping the cable from winding up too much on one side or the other of the drum. This hoist isn't really meant for long diatance lifting like what I am doing. Even on short lifts just keep an eye on the cable.

Rick Rowlands
Tod Engine Works
Youngstown, OH

08-26-2005, 07:32 PM
Thanks Rick, I was scrounging around in the cutoff bin today and found some heavy C-channel (3x5x.258) and some 2x3/8" flat. I may use the C-channel and cut one leg off to make long L-brackets. Otherwise, I'll have to reassemble my press to bend the 2x3/8 into brackets.

I think I'll leave the through-bolt intact though. I don't trust the 11ga. lift frame to keep the trolley on the beam.

08-27-2005, 10:34 AM
IS this a motor lift?

If so I can send you a foot or two of rollers (paint line) , go down to tractor supply (TSC) and get you some of the roller track, instant trolley. You'd hang a bar under the rollers spreading the load out like they intended.

If I find a piece of proper Ibeam or tubing to go onto the top I will build me a proper light mobile aframe. The stuff I got hanging in my shop, I can swing on it with no visible deflection and it is suspended 10' distances. I bet it'd hold 1000 pounds pretty easy. I'm 1/3 of that nearly. (295)

08-27-2005, 07:10 PM
This will be used more to lift car bodies and other equipment. An occasional engine loaded/unloaded from a truck bed and things like that.

Here's a draft of the brackets I'll make. They'll be offset a little to get the cable spool centered with the trolley but you get the idea. I'll also add a safety bar/strap under the gear box. I don't really trust the way the lift frame is bolted to the aluminum gearbox.


Duct Taper
08-30-2005, 11:08 PM
Use the C-channel you have and leave it as is, similar to the layout of the brackets in your drawing. Just drill a hole through the channel like you have on the brackets for the trolley through-bolt. Remove the existing hook eye on the trolley and replace it with the channel. Use the existing through-bolt. You may need to add washers to maintain the spacing of the trolley wheels. Then simply bolt the channel to the lift top plate using the existing holes in the lift, but center the spool and the trolley. This will put the lift as high as possible.

For moving it along the beam, just hook up an old garage door opener to it. "Up" for one direction, "Down" for the reverse.

08-30-2005, 11:32 PM
Sorry, keep forgetting my camera. I just put it in the car so i don't forget. You'll find you'll want to counter balance the motor or it won't hang level. Pics tomorrow I promise.

-Christian D. Sokolowski

08-31-2005, 09:29 PM
Here's what I have so far. The paint was still a little sticky so hanging had to wait. But I did dry-fit all the parts. The two wheels in the back keep the unit from pitching when unloaded.

I also added a grease fitting to the spool bushing. It didn't have much grease in it so I checked the gearbox. Surprisingly, the gearbox had plenty of grease.


08-31-2005, 10:49 PM

I have a similar lift (880 pound version) and the same trolley. My beam is mounted on a swing arm -- supported by a 600# lazy susan bearing at one end and a massive triangular sort of uprright supported on 5 heavy-duty (500# rated) casters at floor level. The weak spots in mine are the 880# lift and the 600# rated bearing (which, if it fails, could seize but not drop the beam). With a chain fall instead of the lift, I'm confident this could handle 1200 or so pounds without a problem.

The beam is is level and I haven't had a problem controlling my modest (up to 650# so far) loads which drop from a ground level staging area to my shop below.

I was able to mate the lift directly to the trolley, using the supplied U-brackets (which needed a bit of "persuasion") around the large through-bolt on the trolley. I ended up redoing this in order to center the wire rope more directly under the trolley. Basically, you want the load to hang pretty well centered between the wheels of the trolley.

08-31-2005, 11:33 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Basically, you want the load to hang pretty well centered between the wheels of the trolley.</font>

Thanks Pete, yea I do have the cable spool centered on the trolley. That's why I had to add the wheels on the back. Without a load, the motor weight lifts the oposite end of the trolley.

If I can muster enough muscle to get everything up to the beam (10ft. Gantry), I'll get some pics of the installation tomorrow. I still have to work on cord drape (or whatever you call it) and an electrical box. I may just make some small glides that fit on top of the beam that will let the cord feed out. As long as it reaches to the center and can roll back to one end, that should work.

09-01-2005, 08:06 PM
Dang, that SOB was heavy but I got it on the beam. As it turns out, the small back wheels aren't really necessary. There's enough weight in the trolley to keep it level when unloaded. They do act as a good guide though. They do keep the trolley from wanting to walk or shimmy when moving across the beam.


j king
09-01-2005, 10:02 PM
Looks like it will be plenty heavy enough ken.Looks good.
Here is my version. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v24/ikimjing/my%20stuff/100_0898.jpg
13' wide by 22'long travel.
Thought I would show you how I ran power to it.

[This message has been edited by j king (edited 09-01-2005).]

09-01-2005, 10:20 PM
Wow JK! That looks beautiful! Makes mine look like a cobbled up carnival ride. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif Thanks for peek.

09-01-2005, 11:24 PM
Looks good ken!

JK your version is what I was on about in a previous post, good use of height there.


Duct Taper
09-02-2005, 07:45 AM
J King, what are you using for your beams? It looks like rectangular tubing. What is your weight limit? Does it flex?

j king
09-02-2005, 05:53 PM
It is 3/16 tubing. It will lift all I need and is stonger than the hoist will lift.I tested the hoist and stalled it out but the crane looked fine. Had to move my drill press in on its side and it stood it up with a chain fall.

we had props made up but didnt touch the crane so it could move as the drill was stood up.I was a little nervous but I didnt lift the drill but stood it up and we caught it with blocking as it went over.I will hate to have to lay it down someday to get it out.Well I guess whoever gets it after I crock will have to worry about that one. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif
This crane was in my mind when I built my shop.You can see it runs on top of the old wall above the drill.The weakest area is above the doorway.I litfed 600 lbs on that spot and there was no problems.I cut out a prop so if I do lift a heavy piece there but that is unlikely.Most of what I want to lift will be less than 300 lbs.
Thanks for the compliment Ken.Yours looks great.I needed to cover a large area so this is what I came up with. Jim

[This message has been edited by j king (edited 09-02-2005).]