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hoffman
09-03-2005, 07:34 PM
I just got one with hi-freq. I think Vinito has one. Any of you welding gurus care to weigh in on this one?

It's a big sucker...

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Deep Sea Tool Salvage

rbjscott
09-03-2005, 07:46 PM
How old is the "Tig". I have owned one for 15 years.

vinito
09-03-2005, 08:00 PM
Right you are Hoffman.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/mikeyphoto/300.jpg

I have an Idealarc 300 (stick welder). It works better than I could have imagined. The DC on it is really smooth and mine came with a Miller TIG attachment. I used to do some precision TIG welding for one shop years ago so I got used to using a nice machine with foot pedal control. I got to jonesing for the foot pedal mainly because the end of a bead almost always cracks using my attachment. With foot pedal control you can do better work.

Here's a link to a schematic for an add-on foot pedal. I haven't tried it yet, but it looks promising.
Schematic (http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/attachment.php?s=&postid=41410)

Here's a link to the thread talking about it:
Thread (http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Forum1/HTML/006188.html)

Here's a link with more discussion about the foot pedal circuit. Mike W. seems to have the inside scoop. (Thanks again Mike, I will be trying that curcuit out sometime).
Other thread (http://www.practicalmachinist.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010188)

[This message has been edited by vinito (edited 09-03-2005).]

hoffman
09-03-2005, 08:27 PM
Mine's a little different Vince:
http://images.andale.com/f2/129/111/8188590/1125861720030_lincoln.jpg
No stinger, regulator pedal etc. just the welder. Lots of knobs and stuff...

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Deep Sea Tool Salvage

[This message has been edited by hoffman (edited 09-03-2005).]

vinito
09-03-2005, 09:24 PM
Oooo. You got a new one. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif
Looks pretty sweet. If it works half as well as mine you should be happy dancing, and my guess is yours is better yet.

I see they have some similar knobs & buttons, so they must not be too far apart in vintage.

Are you just missing a couple things? When I first brought mine home, I had the bright idea of trying it out without coolant for just a brief test. I was sure it would take longer to get hot enough to do damage. Of course, I was wrong... again. I melted my perfectly good tig lines (or whatever you call them) in no time at all, so don't try yours out without the whole system functioning. The good news is it was less than $50 to replace my damage and get a couple other items to boot. Hopefully you are only looking at a cheap trip to the supplier too.

One more score for "MacDyver"

[This message has been edited by vinito (edited 09-03-2005).]

vinito
09-03-2005, 09:26 PM
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

[This message has been edited by vinito (edited 09-03-2005).]

hoffman
09-03-2005, 09:45 PM
It doesn't have a torch, lines, regulator or anything. I've been wanting a tig to weld aluminum for quite a while and the price was right on this one so...

I did find a manual online and now I have to start scrounging for stuff to get it running.

The pic is one I found on the internet. Mine has a little more patina http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

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Deep Sea Tool Salvage

Rustybolt
09-03-2005, 10:54 PM
Hoffman.Give me an email with your address, I might have something you can use.

Tin Falcon
09-04-2005, 07:14 AM
Hoffman:
Congrats. I would love to have a full funcion TIG in The HS. I used one similar to to this at a couple of shops I worked in as well as the local vo-tec. If you are diong aluminum go with a water cooled torch. If your shop has running water and drain you can just hook up running water to itand use a open loop system this was used in one shop and the vo-tec. you do not need an electric cooling system or if you do not have running water you could aso build a closed loop system. They are basicaly a tank (3-4 gal) a heat exchanger (1 ft x 1 ft) (old auto heater core or two, or radiator)a fan and a pump. Use a water auto antifreez mix. note I have not made one but used and looked at the commercial units. They are boxed in nice and use one motor to power the pump and fan. Also Every shop I have worked in has used 2% thoriated tugnsten for all tig welding including aluminum. And straight argon for cover gas. Yes the books recomend pure tunsten for aluminum and helium is good for overhead welding.For genereral HSM use yo do not need to stock three kinds of tungsten and several gas mixes. you will likely want assorted sises of tungsten and several sizes of gas cups. Also some people use a torch mounted reostat intead of a foot pedal this is for large awkward objects. If you are bench welding get the foot pedal. Also think about seting up for backup gas while you are shopping for the things you need to get going.
Good luck
Jim

hoffman
09-04-2005, 09:33 AM
Thanks Falcon. I was going to go with a regular torch but the more I read the more I think I ought to go with a water cooled torch. It has a water inlet/outlet on it down where the gas valve is.

Coolers are pretty expensive but I've seen some home brew deals like you describe.

I know nothing about tig welding so when I get it up and running I'm going to check out the local Vo-Tech for an evening welding class.

Anyone know how to get salt water and seaweed out of a welder http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//eek.gif

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Deep Sea Tool Salvage

3 Phase Lightbulb
09-05-2005, 10:41 AM
Hoffman,

Nice new toy! Before you start buying additional TIG components, I would test the machine out as a stick welder first. If you already have a stick welder, just borrow the ground clamp+electrod wire/clamp and set your machine to DCEP (DC electrode Positive), and try some stick welding with it.. You can also test High Freq to see if you're able to stick weld without having to strike, etc.

Don't bother if you already know it works, but if you're not sure it's an easy way to see if your TIG power source works before buying stuff for it..

So, are you going to do some underwater TIG welding? http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

-Adrian

torker
09-05-2005, 11:16 AM
hoffman...I've used the identical machine to that quite a bit. Too bad it was only for stick welding.
A large fab shop I worked at had one. It was in an out of the way part of the shop and rarely got used as the shop had about 25 newer wire machines.
We where constantly doing proceedure tests for CWB or Hydro or whoever required it.
I didn't like the way the newer inverter type machines stick welded so just for the heck of it I tried the ol' Rinkkin!
What a suprise! Probably the smoothest stationary stick machine I've ever used.
I did all my tests on that machine after that.
After I left there I heard they burnt it up doing steady flat out carbon gouging with it. Too bad!
If it is functional it should be a decent tig machine...it'll just lack the newer square wave technology that the newer machines have. This is only a real advantage with aluminum welding anyway and for average alu work it's not a big deal!
Good find! Doesn't look like it was in the "chuck" for too long either!
Russ