View Full Version : OT: Machining, Pics

09-04-2005, 02:28 AM
I have needed a faceplate for my lathe for a couple of dozen years. I have always worked around this minor problem.

My wife brought home a very nice bit of aluminium. It is a worn out 10 inch diamond wheel. My first challenge is to make it slightly smaller in diameter so as to fit my 9" South Bend.

This is what she gave me.


So, since this is a ten inch wheel and I have a nine inch lathe I needed to reduce the diameter. This is how it is done.


After this I turned and threaded a a 3" chunk of round stock to fit the 1.5 x 8tpi spindle nose of my lathe.


Kinda getting ahead of myself here but I didn't take pictures of the threading operation. For that I decided to make an inside threading tool from a diamond insert that my wife gave me. A few minutes on the bandsaw and drill press and I have this:


It's a Valenite TPEE 732 diamond insert in a holder I made that fits my lathe. It took about 30 minutes to make.

So, after cutting out the round tuit and machining the 3" piece to fit the spindle nose I need to fasten them together. I use my indexing attachment I made on the back end of the headstock and my converted el cheapo drill press that runs on the cross slide to make a neat job of it.


Once done with that and the holes tapped and the plate screwed to the spindle nose I face off the plate with the electric barbecue motor that I use to run the cross feed on my SB9 model C.


After that, all said and done I have a usable face plate. It doesn't have any holes drilled in it but that will happen soon enough.


09-04-2005, 02:45 AM
Gee, it almost looks too nice to drill holes in http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

Nice work!


09-04-2005, 02:57 AM
.........Very neatly done to be sure! Like Maker said, I might just hang it on the wall and look at it for some time. Too nice to mess up with dumb ole holes and stuff!


09-04-2005, 03:03 AM
A really good job. Thank you for the photographs. a picture is really worth a thousand words. Just loved the really smart application of the rotary table when you dont have one. Great stuff and congratulations.

09-04-2005, 03:16 AM
Nice job but I'm not sure and aluminum plate will last very long, tell your wife to find some cast iron next trip.

09-04-2005, 03:21 AM
I like aluminum. Junk wheels are aluminum and they are free. Aluminum doesn't make the same mess that cast iron does.

Next question?

09-04-2005, 03:32 AM

That looks terrific! Great job. Awful nice of your wife to bring that home for you. Does she work at or near some shop then?

LOL, love the OT post. Are we so far removed from machining at this site lately that we need to call out OT for machining topics :-)


09-04-2005, 03:50 AM
My wife is the general manager of a company that supplies grinding wheels, abrasives, industrial gases, cutting tools and other related supplies. She also brokers machine tools. Now and then she ends up with goodies that I can use. She knows a lot more about abrasives than I do. I don't mind asking her for info on a particular subject that has to do with machining that she knows more than I. She also doesn't mind the smell of WD-40. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

John Stevenson
09-04-2005, 04:44 AM
Nice Evan and very practical.
A lot of people don't want to modify original equipment like faceplates but the truth is many time the holes don't line up and you have to drill an extra hole.

Making what are basically throw aways does away with all that.
Another plus is that now you have a boss mounted plate it's an easy job to just swap the disk over for another.

A good source of disks is from a laser company if you have one handy to you.
When they cut a hole in plate they pierce inside the circle then move out, cut the circle and ramp back into the pierce slot.

This makes the disk out the centre useless and only scrap value but the pierce mark is not that great.
For many applications you can ignore it or turn it off, depends on how far inside they pierced.
Anothe way to reclaim this is the saw the pierce out in a vee and weld back up before machining.
Don't weld the pirece back up as is because the laser cutting will form hard spots in the metal at this point.
Cut and weld to get an easily machineable repair.

If you are cutting slots in a faceplate don't do as most manufactures do and cut 4 long, 4 short all equaly spaced as all you are doing is duplicate what you have.
Instead cut 6 slots, 4 at 90 degrees to each other for 2,4,8, holes mountings and then cut two more at 120 degrees.
By sharing a slot with the 4 slots you now have three equaly spaced slots to handle 3,6 and 7 hole mountings.

6 slots, less work more universal.

John S.

09-04-2005, 05:06 AM
Ah yes, Now I recall a past topic where she signed on and gave some grinding wheel advice. Pink CBN wheels or something like that IIRC.

Yeah, I need to find a good source of scrap aluminum. Just a matter of finding the good places to scrounge. There's a surplus joint nearby, but they're only good prices if you compare it to the cost of new -- not like garage sale prices, or the heavenly freebies :-)


09-04-2005, 08:20 AM
" She knows a lot more about abrasives than I do. I don't mind asking her for info on a particular subject that has to do with machining that she knows more than I. She also doesn't mind the smell of WD-40. "

You are a lucky man.

Nice work. Gotta make one for my lathe.

The College I teach at has an aircraft manufacturing program. You should see the machinery in the machine shop!! The program generates lots of scrap aluminum pieces that I can pick up for free. Not big stuff, but usable and the price is right. I'll have to see if I can scrounge a piece big enough to make a faceplate.

The reason I mention this is that any College with a manufacturing or engineering program is a good place to check out for scrounging.

09-04-2005, 08:25 AM
Nice work as always!

Deep Sea Tool Salvage

Your Old Dog
09-04-2005, 09:02 AM
Evan thanks for the pics. Some of us don't work around this stuff so we never get to see it.

Question on the second photo. Did you freehand the first few inches of cut into the wheel or does you pivot point slide in to perpindicular to the blade and rest against a stop? When making these in wood I've had to make a jig that slides in so far with the work mounted on top and then stops at the appropriate spot.

09-04-2005, 09:06 AM
I like it all except the mounting arbor. Should have been something much stronger to thread. To retain threads forever. If it bolts to a faceplate, well it is still nice.

ANyways nice. You like aluminum don't you. Ever try vegetable oil as a coolant? It works great about 20:1 or so. Only (main) problem is mice like to chew on it. (da wiring, da rubber, da computer cables, da..)


09-04-2005, 11:19 AM
Good to see a machining topic, actually very refreshing in contrast to the "hurricane, and political topics".

And as usual the photos are sharp, bright and pertinent and I love seeing pictures here.


09-04-2005, 02:04 PM
Very nice job. I really like to see your stuff. It ranks right up there with Mr. Rivette's. Not as delicate but just as creative and neat.

09-04-2005, 02:28 PM
Evan -
That's nice work. I'm particularly interested in your adaptation of a motor to the crossfeed on the 9C. Is that a rotisserie motor? Is there a previous thread detailing the mod? That's ingenious and cool.


09-04-2005, 05:45 PM

Yes, I like aluminum. And yes, I have tried vegetable oil as cutting lube. Olive oil works very well. However, ethyl alcohol is the best for cutting aluminum. It is very hard to obtain in the 96% variety.

Not many people are familiar with aluminum in the high quality alloys. 7075 T653 has the same strength as steel at one third the weight per square area and machines like butter.


Yes, I did freehand the first bit in to the circle. After that it was a simple radius cut around the pivot point on the bandsaw table.


Who is Mr. Rivette's?

As for precise how about this?




See here:


[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 09-04-2005).]

09-04-2005, 09:37 PM

very cool.
as always.

andy b.

09-04-2005, 09:51 PM
Well. 7075 has some properties the same as steel, but there are some applications where you don't want to substitute it for steel.
I think you'll find the elastic limit is much less for 7075 than steel.

09-04-2005, 10:52 PM
well thanks for taking us off topic, all work and no play etc. nice work, handy thing to have. where was the diamond surface, face or periphery? ie did you have cut through it? sure hope a major clean up followed if so http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

09-05-2005, 02:57 AM
Evan, "http://www.practicalmachinist.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013958"
He makes truly wonderful, delicate, and intricate things that bring wonderment to my mind.

09-06-2005, 10:24 AM

Good question about the diamond. That puzzled me for a bit. There was still some of the diamond compact left on the rim of the wheel and I needed to remove a section of it in order to start the bandsaw cut. I tried a grinding wheel but that didn't work since it basically just dressed the wheel. I ended up using a 1" vertical belt sander. A bit hard on the belt but it worked. As far as cleanup I don't have to worry about that much. I have my grinding and sanding machines in a separate shop area away from the rest of the machine tools.


[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 09-06-2005).]

09-06-2005, 06:38 PM
As usually Evan, you make the rest of us look like slouches. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Nice job and an excellent use of recycled material.