View Full Version : wood stove blower motor question?

Your Old Dog
10-19-2005, 06:27 PM
I bought a yard sale special wood stove with a blower and the rheostat that controls it. The motors (2 very small ones) are shot.

I recently yard saled a Dayton #2c069B Shaded Pole Motor that I've been able to adapt mechanically to the wood stove. The controller from the old setup seems to work just fine but is the rheostat okay to use with a shaded pole motor or will running it on low speed cause it to burnup? As it is, it's one honking blower and needs to be slowed down or I'll have a meltdown in the shop! Thanks for any help.

I paid $5.00 for this motor in like new condition.

here's specs

Blower Type: Shaded Pole
RPM: 1320
Voltage: 115
Amps AC: 1.32/1.27
Hz: 60/50
Thermal Protection: Auto
Wheel Dia. (In.): 5 1/4
Wheel Width (In.): 2 7/8
Inlet Dia. (In.): 4 23/32
Bearing Type: Sleeve
Motor Type: Open Dripproof
Mounting: All Position
Outlet Height (In.): 2 15/16
Outlet Width (In.): 3 5/16
Conduit Box: Yes
CFM @ 0.000-In. SP: 320
CFM @ 0.100-In. SP: 305
CFM @ 0.200-In. SP: 284
CFM @ 0.300-In. SP: 252
CFM @ 0.400-In. SP: 195
CFM @ 0.500-In. SP: 50
Application: Heating, Ventilating, Exhausting, Cooling Components

[This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 10-19-2005).]

Your Old Dog
10-19-2005, 08:49 PM
just pinging it back up to the top in hopes of an answer. thanks.

10-20-2005, 04:58 AM
I doubt there's be any problems with that low of a current draw. Chances are if the motor doesn't heat more than it usually would on full juice, then the control is going to be fine with it also.

Your Old Dog
10-20-2005, 07:00 AM
Darryl, thanks for the help. If I don't get anything more definitive by this afternoon on the forum I'll just let it run for a few hours on low speed and see how it acts up. Hope I don't ruin it, its a nice blower !


10-20-2005, 06:33 PM
Shaded pole motors run because of a dead short turn wrapped around part of the pole face.
Besides being the reason shaded pole rigs always run kinda warm, this retards the mag flux build up from that part of the face.
Net result is the rotor "sees" a rotating magnetic field.

Shaded pole motors are known to easily survive locked rotor situations.

Only BIG and lightly loaded shaded pole rigs even come close to synchronous speeds.

You want to slow yours doen a bit, why not.
Only caveat is the power dissapation of your resistor. Even there you have some freedom, because small resistors are usually not rated for forced air operation.

Most SPM failures are because of neglect.
Mostly spelled "lacalube"
but sometimes because of over heat from really poor ventillation.

Suggest you move air in to the heat exchange past the motor, as opposed to blow it out past the motor.

BTW always checking for actual run conditions is always recommended to keep old Murphy outside in the cold.


[This message has been edited by agrip (edited 10-20-2005).]

[This message has been edited by agrip (edited 10-20-2005).]

Your Old Dog
10-20-2005, 07:17 PM
Agrp, thanks for the help. This motor is mounted underneath a woodburning stove in cold air flow environment. The heat buildup I was concerned with was any that "might" occur as result of running it with a "woodburning stove blower rheostat" that I have left over from a defective older unit. I don't care if my rheostat gets smoked but I'd hate to loose my $105.00 motor that I only paid $5.00 for http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif I guess maybe the best thing to do is try it on low speed and see if the unit heats up. Maybe I'll get lucky. I guess I was looking for a Dominos verbiscum (murdered attempt at Latin) from the boys !! Thanks.


10-20-2005, 07:36 PM
Just buy a variac to reduce the voltage. Ebay a little one for $15 - more than likely about the same cost as the resistor!