New 7' Plow Project

[Guest]

I decided I wanted to make a full size plow for my truck (Just to plow my driveway) so I bought some parts from NorthernTool.com today:

I ordered two 3-ton long ram (manual) jacks ($21.99 each) for Left/Right pivoting, Item #144878:



I ordered two shoes ($15.99 each), Item #10374:



I ordered a 7' wide 54 lb cutting edge ($69.99), Item #10391:



I ordered a super durable yellow polymer shield 28x96" 3/16" thick ($39.99) that I will attach to my plow frame, Item #104080:



I'll order an electric winch like this one from Harbor Freight ($49.99) so I can raise/lower the plow from inside my truck, HF Item #92860:



I'll have to manually get out to adjust the angle of course but it should still be much easier than plowing my driveway with a snow blower. It should be a quick build once I get all of the parts and the steel materials. This time I won't try ordering from Industrial Metal Sales

-Adrian

[Your Old Dog]

sounds like a good price on the cutting edge. Best price I've found around here is $99.00 and the bolt kit is $15.00.

It sure is nice going to work in the morning not being all sweated up from wrestling a snowblower around the driveway! Takes me about 10 minutes.

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Your Old Dog:
sounds like a good price on the cutting edge. Best price I've found around here is $99.00 and the bolt kit is $15.00.

It sure is nice going to work in the morning not being all sweated up from wrestling a snowblower around the driveway! Takes me about 10 minutes.</font>

I was wondering if I really needed the cutting edge or not. What kind of material is it? I saw the bolt kits for $8.90 but I wasn't sure if I would need them since I'm making the frame that this blade will attach to and I've got tons of hardware already. Is there something special about the bolt kits?

-Adrian

[IOWOLF]

Yes, they are called plow bolts. they are like flat head carridge bolts and grade 8 usually. spend the money (you seem to have plenty ) and do it right.

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The tame Wolf !

[tattoomike68]

the plow bolts have a countersunk head and a square carrage on them, they will hold up better when you hit a hard chunk of ice.(iced over sewer lids)

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by tattoomike68:
the plow bolts have a countersunk head and a square carrage on them, they will hold up better when you hit a hard chunk of ice.(iced over sewer lids)

</font>

Ah Ok... Cool. This blade must be very thick if they are counter sinking square head bolts into it. I'll Probably just use my own bolts with large washers for now. It's going to be a very light duty plow anyway.

-Adrian

[IOWOLF]

Buy 'em books send 'em to school....................

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The tame Wolf !

[CCWKen]

OH MAN! Thanks for the cylinder idea Adrian! I've been cusing and hunting for some hydraulic cylinders. The cheap long rams are a great "kit" for making cylinders. Sure beats $250 each for long cylinders.

A few mods and bingo!

[wierdscience]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CCWKen:
The cheap long rams are a great "kit" for making cylinders.
A few mods and bingo! </font>

Oh no the're not

[charlie coghill]

I posted a pic. of my snow plow on the Mentalillness bb.
It will rotate side to side but it is a manual job. I think that I will look at the cylinders/maybe the jacks to rotate the plow.
I already have the elect/hydralic pump to provide the power.

[tattoomike68]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CCWKen:
OH MAN! Thanks for the cylinder idea Adrian! I've been cusing and hunting for some hydraulic cylinders. The cheap long rams are a great "kit" for making cylinders. Sure beats $250 each for long cylinders.

A few mods and bingo! </font>

wierdscience is right.

they are realy thin, tube in a tube , fine for what they are built to do but not much more. push olny.



[This message has been edited by tattoomike68 (edited 11-11-2005).]

[Sprague M]

Plow bolts are specially made to serve two purposes, besides the obvious holding on of the blade.

First they have a square shank and tapered head, the square shank allows the removal of the bolt when the blade has been used for awhile, a conventional head would also be worn away and not allow a surface to hold while removing the nut in the back.

Secondly the taper allows the blade to be drawn tight to the mount to prevent movement. Regular bolts are not going to hold the blade tight enough and the blade will crack.

Wouldn't a set of holes on a swivel be faster to set the blade angle? Just an idea.

Matt

[This message has been edited by Sprague M (edited 11-11-2005).]

[CCWKen]

Well then, that was a lousy idea... Adrian.

[QSIMDO]

11 and 12' plows; Frinks and Tennco's mostly with .75"x11" cutting edges, we just use grade 8 flange bolts and nuts.
Though, we're using the plain cutting edges as facia and run the 3 section carbide insert blades behind them.

NOT cheap at all but they last for years as opposed to maybe 2 storms.

[wbleeker]

Adrian
Are those rams able to work in a horizontal position? Some rams/jacks only work when vertical.
Will