drill press arbor?

[matador]

Hi,guys.I have a problem with an older Ryobi drill press,which i was asked to look at.The chuck has a B16 taper.This chuck feels like it has some almighty burrr or something,as it frequently sticks when trying to open or close it.I don't have an arbor press,so taking it apart is not an option.I do have a brand new "jacobs"chuck,but this has the JT6 taper.
But here's the real puzzle:the drill press'arbor appears NOT to be removable!Is this possible?There is a slot in the spindle,but no corresponding slot in the "arbor".
I have never seen this arrangement before in my admittedly only home-shop type experience.
SO to adapt the new chuck to the old drill press,is there such a thing as a B16 to JT6 adaptor?I've googled it in several ways,but have come up with nada.
If no such thing exists,is it safe to make such a thing myself(e'g two"short"tapers back-to-back)?
In the worst case,the owner will have to buy a new drill press,and gift the old one to me to turn into a tapping fixture http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif.
I'd be grateful for your knowledgeable replies.grovel, grovel,smarm http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif.regards,Hans.

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Hans

[franco]

Matador,

Can't help you with the tapers, but I had a Taiwanese 5/8" Jacobs type chuck with exactly the same symptoms. I did pull it apart. There was a burr on the thread on one of jaws which had almost completely destroyed the thread in the tapered split ring which moves the jaws in and out. there were a lot of small bits of the split ring thread floating around inside the chuck which were causing it to jam intermittently. The split ring looks like it is made of cast iron. Pity - it was a far more accurate chuck than its Chinese replacement.

franco

[jstinem]

If there is a slot for a wedge in quill but you can't see the top of the arbor then it may be drawbar type without a tang. Try putting a ball bearing or a short bit rod in the slot so that is sits on top of the arbor and then put the wedge on top of the bearing and drive the arbor out.
Good luck
Joe

[J Tiers]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by matador:

But here's the real puzzle:the drill press'arbor appears NOT to be removable!Is this possible?There is a slot in the spindle,but no corresponding slot in the "arbor".
.

</font>

Some drill presses had spindles with the male JT taper on the end, for direct mounting a chuck. S-B had replaceable spindles so you had the option for either. All Atlas home-shop DPs I have seen, and all the Walker-Turner I have seen have had the male taper. At that point you are stuck with whatever is there.

But usually in that case there is a ring threaded on as a chuck-remover. You don't mention one, so likely there is an internal taper.......

And the slot you mention seems likely to indicate an internal taper in the actual spindle. There isn't any obvious reason for it except to drive out an arbor.

I'm with JStinem, see if there might be an arbor with no tang in there.

[Forrest Addy]

The spec I found for B16 taper can be found here a couple screens down the page:

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&u=http://www.tongxinpai.com/cpjs.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3DB16%2B%2522taper%2Bspecification%2522 %26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26 sa%3DG

The total taper amounts to 1/20 almost exactly and the big end diameter is 0.6165". No where close to any Jacobs taper.

There are chucks make for this taper that I think would be obtainable from US sources.

[matador]

Thanks for the suggestions,guys.I will have another look at it today.regards ,Hans.

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Hans