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rsr911
12-09-2005, 06:45 PM
Well after a year of being frustrated with my mist coolant on my Boss 5 CNC I decided to hookup a full flood coolant system, WOW!

I've got one job with a 0.250" carbide endmill, used to take 48 minutes, now it takes only 26. That's with the machine speeds and feeds maxed out at 3200rpm and 32ipm! (slow I know but it's old).

The Boss 5 has builtin coolant catching on the table but I'm getting some spray off the tool at that speed. I'm off to the hardware store for longer drain hose and some 1/8" plastic sheet to make a "box" around the table to catch the spray. The best part about getting rid of spray and going to flood is that I no longer have a pile of chips on the floor from the air pressure. Now they're all piled up on the table, I'll have to take some pics after I built the shield.

Hmmm, let me see 3 servos, direct drive spindle motor with a VFD.... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

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-Christian D. Sokolowski

Dawai
12-09-2005, 07:10 PM
I installed a vacuum pump, put it onto the top of the plastic barrel flood system on my bridgeport.

It slurps and sucks back into the barrel. I do not have a vacuum guage on it. Gast Vacuum pump was installed to suck the cool mist out of the air and throw it outside. Unfortunatly it sucks the heat out too. Instant "same" temperature as outside in about a minute.

For a cheap flood coolant system check out the one on www.bbssystem.com (http://www.bbssystem.com) it is a food stuffs 35 gallon barrel, a lil giant pump, and a stalk of 1" pvc with hoses treed off it.
http://www.bbssystem.com/viewtopic.php?t=438

[This message has been edited by David E Cofer (edited 12-09-2005).]

John Stevenson
12-09-2005, 08:38 PM
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[This message has been edited by John Stevenson (edited 01-10-2006).]

rsr911
12-09-2005, 09:24 PM
No worries guys, I've got a little submersible pump and an endless supply of 5 gallon pails. The table has a "gutter" around the outside that drains via a single hose to the 5 gallon pail with the pump in it. My mill table is dead level so the vises drain back to the table not onto the floor. The backside of the vises is just inside the rear gutter so I'm going to attach a panel back there about 10" high. I'll then add sides that are removable and a front that hangs on the sides. This is only to catch chip and coolant slung off the cutting tool, everything else drains back really nicely.

John, I did use your idea on my manual mill with an 8" vise, sure does keep the feet dry.

Is there any practical use for mist coolant? I'm tempted to remove it and sell it!

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-Christian D. Sokolowski

[This message has been edited by rsr911 (edited 12-09-2005).]

Dawai
12-10-2005, 09:33 AM
Five gallon pails, you'll find that the coolant heats up. The main reason the pump burns out is that. With the displaced area of the pump, the coolant in the hoses and on the table, you'll find that you only have about one to two gallons in the bucket. Hence it heats up.
Being a cheap arse I opted for the larger drum and didn't fill it all the way up.

The pumps, they have clear oil in them. The first one I tore down I poured it out thinking it was water. (70s).. it was a clear mineral oil. It carries the heat to the outside of the pump.

I am still not satisfied with my rig. I need a drain, a return line from the coolmist. A shower curtain around my tooling, a shower curtain around the bed, a...

JRouche
12-10-2005, 10:38 AM
911, if you have a camera could you post some photos of the finished screen.

I am also shifting towards flood coolant on my Boss 5 and bought abunch of polycarb to make a screen. Always lookin for ideas. Thanks, JRouche

rsr911
12-10-2005, 11:08 AM
David,

I'm using the same type of pump I have on my manual mill, it's basically a fishtank pump and the coolant doesn't get hot. I was concerned about it after reading your comments but after 2.5 hours straight running the mill last night the coolant was in good shape. I replace the drain lines on my table and cleaned out the fittings and screens, the coolant flows back to the pump as fast as I can pump it.

rsr911
12-10-2005, 11:08 AM
J.

I'll be sure to take some pics sometime today. I was going to use plastic but decided to go with sheet metal since it's easy to form, weld, etc.

[This message has been edited by rsr911 (edited 12-10-2005).]

Dawai
12-10-2005, 06:01 PM
I saw a decent filter made with screen, and old cloth diapers. Using a tupperware tough tote.

I suppose I have way too much flow, cavitating a pump will make the fluid hot too. Horsepower has to go somewhere.

Mine will squirt thirty+ feet. I think it is a 1/6th hp.. not sure.. I lost the paperwork.

rsr911
12-10-2005, 10:00 PM
Dave,

Yeah that sound like a lot of pump. Why don't you put a recirculating bleed on it with a valve so you can adjust total flow at the nozzles?

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-Christian D. Sokolowski

sdeering
12-12-2005, 02:36 PM
Doesn’t your BP have its own coolant system?
I rigged up a five-gallon pail and pump for my BP, my shop wasn't heated full time didn’t want to freeze up the mill. I never did get around to try it. I have a heated shop now (woohoo) so I will give the original coolant sys. a try. I will use the home made on the lathe though. Just seems to be a little handier to use the original if it work ok.
Chris how did the program work out you were trying to finger out, I would have liked to give you some help but haven’t go that far yet. Please do post picks of the splashguard.
Stephen

rsr911
12-12-2005, 07:38 PM
sdeering,

My BP has built in mist cooling and no factory sump. The table is setup for coolant though with a nice gutter all around and good drainage. I only have the back half of the splash shield done at this time since the machine is busy making parts.

The program worked great for me. I set it up for the table to home at X9Y0 on the dials, and I'm changing all my programs to use this as the home position. From there I move to the spot where I want X0Y0 for the parts and give it a G92X0Y0 after the parts are done it returns to the home position and I give it another G92 to reset zero, works great for tool changes and keeps the table back out of the way when not in use. I have dowel pinned my vises to the table in one corner and marked them left and right so if I have to remove them they can go back right where I had them. I will post picks of the splash shield once I have it set up the way I want it.

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-Christian D. Sokolowski

John Stevenson
12-12-2005, 07:40 PM
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[This message has been edited by John Stevenson (edited 01-10-2006).]

sdeering
12-13-2005, 06:22 PM
I was working on old grey last night. I thought I would fill the reservoir and try the stock coolant pump out. Wouldn't you know it the piece of sh wouldn't pump. I could see the coolant churning around in the res. The fun part is the access panel is between the rear cabinet and the mill. I had to move the rear cab. out of the way to get the pump out. Turned out the bottom cover with the screen had a crack in it and was pushed out, previous knot head must have froze her up. Easy fix though a little sillycon and a piece of plastic and whala.
I have cleaned the res. out but it still has a lot of junk in it. Is there something one can circulate through the system to dissolve the waxy stuff, or not worry about it?

Thanks again for the diagram Christian I have been tracking down the function of the gold resistors on the rear small door. It looks like the ones that are on the warm side are in-between the stepper driver transistors and ground they must be limiting amperage trough the motors.
I measured the voltage at the resistors and its only 4V DC doesn't seem like enough to make them hot, let see.
50=4/I =.08amp/risistor
2 resistors/ motor=.16amp. This is motor powered but not moving.
I don’t get it. I forgot to test for AC voltage, I don't think there is supposed to be any but I better check.
Anywho, looking forward to see your splash guard, I’ll be needing one soon.
Stephen

Kdahm
12-13-2005, 06:55 PM
Don't forget the magnet.

Wrap a big magnet in a ziplock sandwich bag. Attach string. Drop in bucket. Every few days or weeks, pull it out and clean the chips and debris off or change the bag.

John Stevenson
12-13-2005, 06:59 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by sdeering:
I was working on old grey last night. I thought I would fill the reservoir and try the stock coolant pump out. Wouldn't you know it the piece of sh wouldn't pump. I could see the coolant churning around in the res.
Stephen

</font>

Is the pump going the right way ?

John S.

JRouche
12-13-2005, 09:05 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Kdahm:
Wrap a big magnet in a ziplock sandwich bag. Attach string. Drop in bucket. </font>


My aluminum and stainless chips are antisocial http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

rsr911
12-13-2005, 09:36 PM
Well, my spindle is jammed so no finishing the splash shield tonight. I'm going to start a new thread to see if you guys have any ideas.

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-Christian D. Sokolowski

sdeering
12-14-2005, 01:46 AM
The pump is like a miniature sump pump. The fluid was leaking out the bottom instead of going up the hose. Its a cintrifical pump doesent matter direction. Its all good now.
I made a mistake on the resistor they are 1 ohm. I checked again tonight 3.4v DC upstream of all the 1 ohm resistors. I set the amperage the quick way adjusted to get 8v DC at the fuzes. My amp meeter seems to always have a blowen fuze in it, I got to stop checking voltage with the leads in the wrong spot LOL. If the amperage is set to spec of 8 amps that would mean each resistor is soaking up 3.4x8= 28 watts, and they are rated for 50. I gues 28 watts they may be warm. I will have to get a fuse for the fluke and make sure the amperage is correct.
Stephen