View Full Version : Drilling hardened loader bucket blade?

Bob Quale
12-18-2005, 08:35 PM
I need to drill the hardened blade on a loader bucket. I want to install a bolt-on wear edge, I tried my chicago latrobe bits but no go. What can I use? or is it even possible? I had a guy tell me to use a $30.00 bit from snap on, What ever that means? any way, any ideas? I have an acct with msc, so any thing they sell would be easiest for me.

Thanks Bob

12-18-2005, 08:36 PM
Try solid Carbide yet?

Bob Quale
12-18-2005, 08:43 PM
I tried a carbide bit for masonary, I have had good luck with these in the past, it did go about half way through and then started to side track. I figured I was on the right track. I don't mind spending money on a good bit, but I would like to buy the right bit the first time, if possible.


12-18-2005, 09:03 PM
A cole drill with a resharpened masonary bit. I was going to sell mine, but apparently it is on permanent loan to brother in law to drill truck frames.

12-18-2005, 09:04 PM
I have had some luck spot heating with a torch until a reddish glow, then drill hard and fast...5/8" hole in hard plate


12-18-2005, 09:10 PM
The carbide bits should do it. Did you regrind the masonry bit?

Oh yeah, the Cole drills are handy. I used mine to drill all the holes in the Kenbota frame. I almost sold mine but they come in too handy. I only paid $5 for mine.

LOL...Rustybolt. That's why I don't lend out tools. You can use all you want HERE, but they don't leave.

Bob Quale
12-18-2005, 09:22 PM

What is a core drill? is it the machine or the bit? and how should I re-sharpen the masonary bit?

I think the carbide bit may be the way to go. Does the carbide bit look like a regular high speed bit, just carbide, or some thing else? would you recomend indexable?

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks Bob

12-18-2005, 09:50 PM

The die drills on that page work well but are basically a high-quality masonary drill. I've used them on molds in the mid-50s Rc. They can be sharpened on a green wheel or a diamond wheel. You need a constant steady pressure with the most ridgid setup possible. When it stops cutting or starts screaming it's time to sharpen. Good luck.


[This message has been edited by moldmonkey (edited 12-18-2005).]

12-18-2005, 10:48 PM
Are you step drilling? What I mean, are you drilling an 1/8" hole first for your 5/8" or 3/4" hole, if you are drilling a large hole?

With the carbide tipped mason drills they work much better with a piloted hole already in place. JRouche

Bob Quale
12-18-2005, 11:13 PM
Thanks guys,

I want to end up with a 1/2 in hole, eight of them, What size pilot hole should I start with? Also, I am doing this with a 1/2 in hand drill, not very rigid.

What do you think?

12-19-2005, 01:23 AM
Pilot with a bit that will have a larger diameter overall that the chisel point of the finale bit.

Example: For a 1/2" bit with a chisel point of 1/8" use an 1/8" or larger pilot hole (bit) so it is just the flutes that are cutting not the chisel point of the 1/2" bit.

For brazed carbide drills there is no chisel point. The idea here is to start the hole straight and to avoid "wandering" of the bit. By using a smaller primary bit and finishing with the final secondary bit you will be able to bore a "straighter" hole VS starting out with the final ID bit.

Also with brazed carbide bits you can vary from the standard 118° or 135° bits and lean toward a more aggressive angle such as 160° to 175°. JRouche

12-19-2005, 09:50 AM
As I see it you have several choices, some expensive some not so expensive.

1. Cabide bit expensive

2. Plung EDM less expensive

3. O/A cutting torch even less expensive.

The torch in the hands of an experienced person can cut holes down to about 1/4 inch in 1 inch plate. You may also be able to do it with a plasma cutter.

12-19-2005, 12:53 PM
You forgot
4) Weld it on and be done with it.

12-19-2005, 03:42 PM
What about a simple drill guide that can be clamped to the bucket? How about a couple of pieces of 1/2" steel tacked together with a predrilled 1/2" diameter hole to hold the bit steady.

12-19-2005, 06:29 PM
Rent a mag drill for a day.
The difference between drilling with a mag drill, and a hand drill, is night and day.
Frankly, with a decent twist drill bit, a slow enough speed, some lube like cool tool, and a mag drill, you should be able to drill it with a high speed drill bit, but a solid carbide bit would be better.
Not sure if they make them that small or not, but an annular drill bit, like a rotobroach, which is basically a carbide toothed hole saw, would work really well in a mag drill as well.

12-19-2005, 06:41 PM
Cole drill, Not core drill,Its a handy little Gizzy you crank by hand, usually with a 1/2" hole for a chuck for S&D drill bits.

The tame Wolf !

12-19-2005, 08:27 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CCWKen:
The carbide bits should do it. Did you regrind the masonry bit?

Oh yeah, the Cole drills are handy. I used mine to drill all the holes in the Kenbota frame. I almost sold mine but they come in too handy. I only paid $5 for mine.

LOL...Rustybolt. That's why I don't lend out tools. You can use all you want HERE, but they don't leave.</font>

I got his four jaw chuck, so far so good ;-) And I paid full price for mine. Dagnabit!

12-19-2005, 08:30 PM
I have done that before.

If its just a bolt hole , torch them all in a few minutes.

drilling is a waste of time.

12-19-2005, 08:35 PM
We recently had to drill 3 1/2" dowel pins with a 5/16" hole. These were pull dowels, so had a small hole about 1/2 way through. Used a 5/16" masonary bit from the local H/W store, hadda resharpen several times on a green wheel. Worked great, and was cheap.

I once drilled an oil hole in a chainsaw bar that didn't have one, using a carbide burr in the drill press. Went through like I was drilling brass or aluminum. :-)

Bob Quale
12-20-2005, 11:02 AM
I am going to try my masonary bit again. I have a drill doctor for sharpening bits, but have never done the carbide type on it. Can I use the drill doctor, or should I get a green wheel? The green wheel I do not have.

Thanks for all the help!


12-20-2005, 02:47 PM
Not sure what drill doctor you have but the 750 model I have will do masonry type bits. If yours will sharpen the masonry bits then I would use it. Mine does a good job of keeping the point centered.

Bob Quale
01-22-2006, 02:02 PM
Hey guys,

I just wanted to get back to you all on my progress with the loader. As it turned out, I got good, made in the USA drill bits and did the job, I used an 11/64 pilot, because that is what I had around, and sprayed lots of coolant on it.

Thanks For the help!


01-22-2006, 10:46 PM
One of those cheap bench top drill presses might also work good. Spin the head 180 deg and { and it even stays balanced}while you are getting the clamps. Although the motor might be a little under powered for your application. I used one drilling 30 plus holes in some I- beam. Chris
Ypsilanti Mich