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darryl
01-22-2006, 05:01 PM
Bought some dual sheave pulleys for my project, and they mount to a shaft using a split tapered hub which bolts to the side of the pulley. Anyone know what that taper is? And maybe what angle to set the compound to in order to re-create it? The mt3 taper for example is roughly 1 1/2 degrees from parallel.

wierdscience
01-22-2006, 05:14 PM
Do the sheaves have numbers on them?If they do that will tell us what series hub they require.

Shuswap Pat
01-22-2006, 05:17 PM
Darryl - The standard taper for these bushing is 3/4" per foot, on diameter. If you check the Browning, Dodge, or Martin web sites, you can get all the info, with bolt patterns etc.

Pat

darryl
01-22-2006, 08:59 PM
Thanks, Pat. Exactly what I was looking for. Let's see- translating that into an angle, it becomes 1.79 degrees. How the heck do I read that on my compound setting gauge- no matter, that's the starting point for me anyway. I'll do what I did for setting up for morse taper- carefully adjust the compound and take skim cuts until it's cutting the exact taper, then adjust my gauge to that setting, then drill the tapered alignment hole in the gauge to match the tapered alignment pin. Now to find that dang pin- I have the tapered D bit I used to make the hole the first time, and I had to use that as the pin when I needed to match the morse 3 taper. I need to find the stupid pin. Anyway, it'll be handy to have that 3/4 inch per foot setting on my gauge.

Wierd, I have the adapter, but due to unforseen circumstances (not really, just a couple miskates on my part) I can't use it. It will only grip over a half inch of length on the shaft, so I'll just make a new one. It will suit me better anyway.

Thanks for the replies. Off to the shop now.

wierdscience
01-22-2006, 11:25 PM
Well if you have the adaptor all you need to do is mount it between centers in the lathe and use a dial indicator running on the taper to sweep the crosslide in,no fuss no muss.

darryl
01-23-2006, 12:21 AM
Now ya tell me http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif All I needed to do was chuck a 1 inch smooth bar, indicate that for parallel, then put the adapter on it and indicate from the compound to the taper. Note to self, get a couple more indicators. Make a couple custom mounts. Start to use them more often.

Ok, I'm done it anyway. I set the compound to just under 2 degrees and turned a taper, tested it with the pulley, did that about 4 times and now it's right on. Set my gauge against the compound and adjusted it for angle. I'm set to repeat this taper anytime in future now.

I made the new adapter as a split ring without a flange. The fit is much better this way, no rocking at all as with the old one. I'll be using the old adapter backwards just as an aid to seating the new one, then I'll make a retainer disc to complete the pulley mounting. This disc gets bolted to the pulley and the end of the shaft to precisely locate the pulley (clearances here are very small) and will be keyed to the shaft as well.

One mistake I made earlier was to precisely machine the shaft to 1.1 inches, instead of 1.0 inches. Before I realized this, I had already done further machining on the ends of the shaft, altering the holes I used to turn between centers. Fun, fun, fun.

It's all good now, I learned many things today, and I'm further along with this project. A good day.

By the way, I found the locating pin for my gauge. Exactly where I had left it, and where it was supposed to be. Couldn't see it for looking.

[This message has been edited by darryl (edited 01-23-2006).]

speedy
01-23-2006, 04:58 AM
I just hooked on; good to see that you accomplished the job successfully Darryl. The other option would be to dial in the pulley and set the compound to the taper with the DTI.

ken