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View Full Version : Storing End Mills



jfsmith
11-30-2002, 12:43 AM
It's there a prescribed way of storing end mills. Right now I am using one of my reloading shell racks.

Jerry

Al Messer
11-30-2002, 05:41 AM
Sounds to me like you already have a terrific method. Why change?

Paul Gauthier
11-30-2002, 09:48 AM
I wish I had thought of that.

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Paul G.

Spin Doctor
11-30-2002, 09:50 AM
I usually try to keep them in their cardstock or plastic tubes they come in. Really just about any type of storage will do as long as you keep them from hitting each other and chipping the corners or edges. Lets face it enough of that will happen in normal useage anyway. If it doesn't stretch your budget too much get one of the cheap indexable carbide set-ups and use that for our roughing work and save the HSS for your finish.

Thrud
11-30-2002, 08:28 PM
Jerry
I buy off cuts of Walnut 3/4" solid core plywood, laminate them with urethane glue, trim to size, 3 coats of beartex urethane semigloss, and bore flat bottomed holes for my tools with HSS Forstner or lipped HHS brad point drills. Hardest part is seeing the pencil layout lines. I prefer maple, but for some reason no one has Maple ply scraps - just the lousy Walnut. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Two bucks for a 12"x15"x 1.5" bit block! Solid too.

Ozarks Hermit
12-01-2002, 09:15 AM
Jerry:

I use that "tool dip" stuff, just heat it in a stainless dish (since I don't have an expensive heating pot) and dip the cutting ends of my end mills in it. Then just toss them in various drawers, cataloged by size. I bought a small amount from McMaster-Carr a while back. It can be fairly expensive, but re-useable.

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Ken aka Ozarks Hermit
Shell Knob, Mo

Mike Sr
12-01-2002, 01:26 PM
I use the seal-peel method myself. I picked up a Presto Fry-Daddy to heat it though. It reaches 400 degrees, holds about 6 lbs, and a pot full is ready in about 2 hours. Same as the tank in our Cuttergrind Dept at work. Since its deep, it is easy to coat long tools. I coated a few thousand spare cutters, taps, and drills at home with about 5 lbs. I get the seal-peel from one of my vendors for about $3 a lb. Getting rid of all the cutter tubes lets me organize them in a smaller space too.

Al Messer
12-01-2002, 02:42 PM
Jerry, How do you keep your reloading dies from rusting when you keep them in a rack?? I keep mine in a plastic RCBS box with a couple of Old Fashioned Moth Balls in each one.

SGW
12-01-2002, 03:08 PM
Right now I have them sorted by piles in a drawer, more or less, in their individual tubes. It's not very satisfactory.

I have my taps in one of those 60-drawer storage racks, and that works pretty well. There is plenty of space for organizing and separating, and I'm thinking of setting up a similar thing for end mills. The storage unit was cheap -- about $15 at K-Mart several years ago -- and 60 drawers would take care of a lot of permutations of end mills.

I find organization to be an ongoing shop problem. There are so many individual THINGS -- taps, dies, end mills, drills, screws, nuts, whatever -- and unless one has some kind of system it's really easy to get overwhelmed. I think any system that works for YOU is okay. It's your shop!

Mike L
12-02-2002, 09:51 AM
I use 2x6 wood of a length to fit in my cabinet. Drill an appropriate size hole for each endmill and stand them up.

Easy to see and grab the one I want. I have about 50 endmills in 3 different pieces of wood.


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Mike L
Amateur machinist, self-taught. I had a poor teacher, but I was a good student.

jfsmith
12-02-2002, 11:38 PM
My metal working area, where my Mill and Lathe are at, is a environmentally controlled area, low humidity, constant temperature. I also have the drill press that I do fine work with there as well as my files and many other hand tools. They have survived well in that environment for the last 15 years.

Plus I wipe all of my end mills with a preservation oil.

Jerry