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model a
02-25-2006, 05:21 AM
I've been doing machining for years and have yet needed to cut a taper using the taper attachment which comes on some lathes. It seem like the attachment is fairly common on used lathes. I feel that the chance of getting it set accurately enough to make something to fit a morse taper etc. is pretty slim. I guess it would be the only way to cut pipe threads

japcas
02-25-2006, 05:52 AM
Taper attachments can be set very accurately by using a dial indicator set on a straight section of the part. You figure out how much taper per inch you need and then dial it in on the taper attachment.

IOWOLF
02-25-2006, 06:20 AM
Model A, you are wrong on both accounts, the first has been shown to you, On the second,You are forgetting the Pipe Die.

How long did you SAY you been machining?

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The tame Wolf !

metal mite
02-25-2006, 07:20 AM
Iowolf,
Got to agree on this one, but still think birds got rights.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/kappullen/money3.jpg

mite

Tinkerer
02-25-2006, 08:09 AM
Well now since you have no use for that taper attachment thingy... please package it up and send it to me. I'm sure with a little tinkerin' I could fit it to my lathe. Heck I'll even pay for shipping it. I mean since it's just clutter to ya... let me know. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif

coles-webb
02-25-2006, 08:37 AM
Don't forget the off-set tailstock method as some lathes don't come with a taper attachment. It is a method that scares some people but with the aid of a test bar (Bought or home-made) it works great. As for Morse tapers, I ussually buy them if I can (I realize you can't always).

Mike

Frank Ford
02-25-2006, 09:24 AM
I'll second the Morse taper thing. I spent a while to set my taper attachment dead on for #2 taper, and have surprised myself with the number of gizmos I've made to plug into my tailstock - things like one-use centers, long reach center drill holders and this tap guide:

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Machining/Tooling/LatheHandTap/lathehandtap.html

Tin Falcon
02-25-2006, 09:28 AM
Model A:
cutting tapers IMHO is somthing that is taught in Lathe operation 101.At least it was part of the U.S. Air force basic Machinists/welders course a few years back.There are three ways of cutting tapers. 1) taper atachment. 2)Tailstock offset 3) setting the compound. If you call yourself a machinist you should be familiar with all three.
japcas is right the taper atachment can be set very accuratly. Here are some tips Make shure your tool height is set to center. If it is not it will change the taper. This will in turn effect calculations and in turn drive you crazy.
Learn to measure tapers accuratly use a micrometer calibrated in ten thousanths. Use a dial indicator for adjusting the taper attachment or tail stock. cut only in one direction. Back lash on the taper atachment can throw off the taper.Learn to do the math for taper cutting. Be patient. And above all have fun. A good basic lathe book is How to run Lathe by south bend lathe availble at.http://www.lindsaybks.com/bks/lathebk/index.html
(Normal disclaimers no affiliation.)
I was fortuate to find an original 1966 edition.
Regards Tin.
PS Be thankfull yourlathe has a taper atachment. there are guys out there that would give an eye tooth for it or a fair amount of cash

Allan Waterfall
02-25-2006, 10:42 AM
Any time you need to turn a taper that's longer than the reach with the compound it's very handy.

Not a thing that perhaps gets a lot of use,but gives a better finish than hand cranking the compound.

I recently turned the cones for a small tuned pipe from solid bar and the taper attachment was indispensable.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=669097

Allan

Carl
02-25-2006, 12:40 PM
A pipe plug being threaded between offset centers:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v35/lathefan/f70158c7.jpg

IOWOLF
02-25-2006, 03:54 PM
Allan , Is that a R/C M/C ?

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The tame Wolf !

Allan Waterfall
02-25-2006, 06:35 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by IOWOLF:
Allan , Is that a R/C M/C ?

</font>

Yes it's 1/5 scale,I try to race as often as possible,at least once a month.There's the first ever 1/5 bike World championship in England this year,and a Grand Prix in September.

http://www.tibshelf-rc.co.uk/


Plenty of pics and videos on this link

http://www.skiptonclub.net/index.htm
Allan


[This message has been edited by Allan Waterfall (edited 02-25-2006).]

[This message has been edited by Allan Waterfall (edited 02-25-2006).]

aametalmaster
02-25-2006, 07:18 PM
I used to make some Stainless Steel pipe nipples that had to be cut with a taper attachment. They were 2" SS pipe with a standard pipe thread that turned into a straight pipe thread for a 10" length, almost real hard to do on a pipe machine with a die. Plus the tolerances were too close to do with a die plus SS pipe isn't round...Bob

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Bob Wright
Salem, Oh Birthplace of The Silver & Deming Drill

model a
02-26-2006, 05:46 AM
You guys sure didn't help me convice myself that I didn't need to find the rest of the parts for the taper attachment on my lathe (all I have is a couple of brackets).

It seems like every time I try to cut a pipe thread using a die it ends up wobbling even if I but the die up against the tailstock for an initial alignment.

And yes I know about offsetting the tailstock and using the compound to cut tapers.

Just for discussion (since I don't have a taper attachment)
1. You're going to need a blade micrometer to measure the diameters.
2. A travel dial or DRO to know how far you traveled along the taper for the measurement.
3. Or do you just cut one out soft material and try it to a master?

IOWOLF
02-26-2006, 06:21 AM
1, No a caliper wil do.

2,A $20.00 dial indicator should do.

3,The whole reason for a pipe taper is the tighter you go, the more it seals.So to a point, your practice pipe nipples will work.

Oh and you dont have a taper atachment so its a moot point.

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The tame Wolf !

[This message has been edited by IOWOLF (edited 02-26-2006).]

barts
02-26-2006, 03:03 PM
Setting up a taper if you have a master is easy - just
keep adjusting the compound angle or taper attachment
until the bar measures straight with a dial indicator in the
toolpost.

If you don't have a master, make one - turn the apppropriate
diameters on a bar 6" (less if a steep taper, of course)
apart, and then follow the same procedure.

You can also use a sine bar clamped to a straight piece of drill rod to get very close to the right angle.

- Bart