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MURPH
09-13-2001, 01:30 PM
I need to remove two 3mt arbors from two jacob chucks. One chuck has a whole all the way through the other does not. I can't get the old arbor out, so I can put smaller ones in for a new drill press. Any Ideas???

thanks

cjm

C. Tate
09-13-2001, 09:42 PM
I had a guy who worked for me say that putting the chuck in the freezer overnight helps. Once given the chance to cool and contract you can separate the two. Never tried it myself so I don't know if it works.

Thrud
09-14-2001, 05:06 AM
Jacobs makes special wedges for safe drill chuck removal from shanks. The wedges are cheap - a complete set are only $10 in Canada. The wedges are used in pairs and will not damage the chuck or the shank. You use a big vise to force the wedges together, this action separates the shank from the chuck

First time I used them on a JT33-MT2 shank I was not expecting the ruckus when it finally let go - nearly needed a Depends THAT time!

It also helps to warm the chuck (100-140*F don't get carried away).

To reassemble warm the chuck up and put the shank in the beer cooler. (1/2 hr.) Wipe both the socket and shank clean with solvent before assembly, put the shank in the socket, hold the chuck with your hand and tap the shank in with 2Lb. deadblow Ureathane mallet. One good rap will make it really hard to take apart later. Let the chuck and shank come to room temp before using.

Dave

Dave the Nave
09-17-2001, 06:12 PM
I've been in this situation before.The Jacobs that I had to remove from the arbor fortunately had a hole through the center of it..25 if I remember correctly,and I used a 3/16 x 3" pin to drive it out with.I gave it a good rap with a ball peen hammer.

sch
09-24-2001, 11:47 PM
A poster on another news group suggested giving a sharp rap on the opposite end of the arbor from the chuck with a semi soft head hammer-momentum transfer may blow the
chuck off so aim it at a soft spot. The wedges are the best way to go if you have them. Steve

sch
09-24-2001, 11:47 PM
(doublepost)

[This message has been edited by sch (edited 09-24-2001).]

Thrud
09-25-2001, 12:29 AM
Do not whack your chuck with a hammer - unless you just HAVE to have an "believable excuse for your better half" to get a new one.

As "Dave the Nave" has stated his chuck had a hole in it to assist removal - the rear flange of the chuck still must be supported or you will peen the bearings.

The Jacobs Wedges (you need all of them for certian shanks) are cheep and WILL NOT DAMAGE the chuck or shank.

SGW
09-25-2001, 09:06 AM
You can drill a hole through the bottom of the chuck if need be. It's soft enough to drill. Then you can put a punch through and drive out the arbor.

The other folks are correct though; the best way to do it is with the wedges. As long as there is enough of a shoulder on the arbor for the wedges to ride on, do it that way.