View Full Version : Grizzly 3102 mill

Spin Doctor
12-21-2002, 05:24 PM
Does any one have experience with the Grizzly #3102 vertical mill or any of it's similar siblings sold by Grizzly, Enco and others. I'm looking at it because I've got a height problem in the shop area and I don't have the room for a BP. Besides that I really don't like any of the Mill/Drills that are out there.


12-22-2002, 01:37 PM
I've seen the Jet 836 -- it looks to be of good quality. Dunno how that compares to the Grizzly you're looking at, though. (At first glance the Jet 836 looks like a B'port-sized machine, but it's not; it's considerably smaller.)

12-22-2002, 02:03 PM
Comments on other groups suggest this is a
venerable older design designated as "M1A1"
type. It is the smallest knee mill commonly available, is much smaller than usual knee mills and has limited quill downfeed of 2.5 to 3". General impression is of good design
and execution, competent machine for its size with dovetail table elevation solving the milldrill registration problem. It is also available in a floor mount version weighing 1200-1300# Steve

Spin Doctor
12-23-2002, 12:00 AM
Sch, I know about the floor versions etal, What I'm intrerested in is if they can hold any kind of accuracy or chatter like a SOB. The guys I know with Mill/Drills all complain they aren't fit to cut butter but then I have to admit I'm used to full size shop machinery.

12-23-2002, 09:04 AM
Assuming you get one of decent quality, within its capabilities it's fine. You aren't going to be able to take a cut like you would on a 3HP Lagun or whatever, and if you expect to be able to you'll be disappointed. But within its capabilities it will be fine...assuming you get one of decent quality. Accuracy has no relationship to size, or lack thereof.

Spin Doctor
12-23-2002, 09:20 AM
Of course the machines in this size range have their limitations.Just because some one could put a 3/4 end mill in a R8 collet doen't mean you should.
Mainly what I really want to find out is just how much work I'll have to do to fix the things that are probably wrong with it. I'm assuming the Knee, saddle, and table will probably have to rescraped to improve fit. As for positioning accuracy I'll probably install either linear scale DROs or go with the old standards and indicator set-up like we used to use on jig bores and mills so the accuracy of the screws is not realy an issue. One other issue I'd really like information on is the motor and drive belts. If I have to I'll look into going to a Solid State DC variable drive. I should be able to get a surplus one fron work( you would not beleive the stuff they toss )

12-23-2002, 12:52 PM
Well, assuming you get one of decent quality (again, that assumption), I doubt you'll need to fix much of anything. My Jet JVM-830 (they don't offer it anymore) is quite well made and accurate. The leadscrews are good. A B'port or Clausing or Rockwell or whatever is better made, but there isn't anything about mine that offends my sense of aesthetics or makes it inaccurate. The motor and belt have lasted me...17 years now, with no problem.

Now, there is JUNK out there, and you CANNOT tell by looking at the pictures. A machine that may "look just the same in the picture" but is a thousand bucks less is a thousand bucks less for a reason. When I bought my Jet, Enco was selling one that "looked just the same in the picture" for a lot less money. Well, I saw both of them "in person," and beside the Jet I thought the Enco was junk.

[This message has been edited by SGW (edited 12-23-2002).]