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Crazy Ed
01-05-2003, 03:33 PM
That about says it!! What is the best method to remove a 33jt taper chuck??? Besides tossing it and buying a drill press with a screwon type?? Hehehe.

Thanks in Advance.

Crazy Ed

Davcon
01-05-2003, 06:35 PM
The common method is to make two U-shaped wedges that can be driven in between the arbor and chuck. They should be driven toward each other, making an even seperation. Good Luck. Dave Converse

George Hodge
01-05-2003, 08:22 PM
Ed ,open the jaws wide,use a drill to make a hole through the bottom of the chuck.Use a punch and heavy hammer and heavy vise or anvil, to knock the arbor out of the chuck. It doesn't harm the chuck or the arbor. Don't expect to tap lightly !Haul off like you meant it.Catch the arbor to keep from marring it.If you have access to the wedges,hold the chuck vertically with the wedges between the shoulders of the arbor and the back of the chuck. use a large vise to squeeze the wedges together. When that doesn't work,go to the drill press and drill that hole in the back of the chuck,as I first said.

Thrud
01-05-2003, 08:30 PM
Ed
If you have to drill the back of the chuck, tap it for a jack screw and use the screw to push it of the arbour. This would be the better plan if your chuck is mounted on an integral spindle was wacking away will damage the bearings.

The wedges are made by Jacobs - there are 4 sets of 2 hardened wedges required to remove most chucks.

Crazy Ed
01-05-2003, 08:33 PM
Thanks for the info, especially about drilling out the center. I didn't know if that was an option or not, but KNEW you guy and gals would. I think I will make a couple wedges and try that first. If that doesn't work out as planned, will drill and then put a small hole, say 1/4 inch in the center and use a bolt with the head with a countersinked (drilled partway) as a point for a small bearing puller to push against.

Thanks again...you guys are great!

George Hodge
01-05-2003, 08:35 PM
Ed,just reread your post. If the chuck is still in the drillpress,it might be a little harder. Just hold the anvil up there and use you imagination

Crazy Ed
01-05-2003, 08:40 PM
Thanks Thrud, didn't know. Will see what they cost. Was thinking of making wedges out of 1/4 plate that has a center hole cut out with a hacksaw to a "U" shape and beveled over 2 inches with my grinder. Say about 2.5 inch wide bar metal 1/4 inch thick. Then squeeze in a vise.

Crazy Ed
01-05-2003, 08:42 PM
Yes, GH, will try NOT to have to take it out of the dp.

Me stinks me will change nick to Lazy Ed!!!!

docsteve66
01-05-2003, 10:04 PM
The wedges work well, jacking srews also. MAybe first try extendingthe quill,hold a la
large anvil (like a several pound block of iron) behind the quill and hit it with a hammer. Some times a gentle blow will just drop the taper, more likely it will take a hard lick. Coupled with the wedges you have even better chance. The back up plate (the anvil) shuld be several times heaveier than your hammer. both should be large as you can handle and give sharp lick. The anvil keeps the bearings from getting a shock.

The wedges can be squeezed with a large c clamp, and tapped as force is applied.

The wedges described above are one handy tool in any shop. friend borrowed mine to seperate a pump, thanksgiving day. Did not know to use them so the side raised parrallel. so it acted like a thick wedge (mine are heat treated, hard, polished, ring like a tuning fork. He bent a 5/8 steel shaft (about 3 inches long , mild steel i suspect, at a 45 degree angle before he decided he was doing some thing wrong. point is you have lot of force, with wedges. installed properly the force is in line with the axis of what ever you are forceing. No bending force just pure stress along the axis perpendicular to the wedges. Beats those tie rod frogs in automotive work.