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Rustybolt
04-24-2006, 04:24 PM
This thing ain't budging. Already broke one puller(cheap). I don't want to dremel it off if I can help it. Any suggestions?
Oh. Yeah. It,s a 99 dodge ram pu 2wd.

Kansas_Farmer
04-24-2006, 04:47 PM
Heat it, if ya can. Try to only heat the arm, without getting the shaft and seals hot too...kinda hard to do but can be done.

Alguy
04-24-2006, 05:05 PM
Those can be a PITA, if it has a split by the pinch bolt try driving a metal wedge in the split to releave some of the tension. When i used to install them on large trucks we place them on by hand then had to to remove a the wedge then it would not move .They had desiged it to have clamping force with out the pinch bolt . The bolt is to make sure it never moves under stresses of driving.
allen

Rustybolt
04-24-2006, 05:52 PM
No wedge. Just a splined hole. The other end is resting on a jack. That end isn't moving either. I'll break out the torch and heat it and see what happens.

John Stevenson
04-24-2006, 06:21 PM
Can you turn it so that you can get a jack on one side then a hefty bar and a sledge on the other side so it shocks it off the taper.
Never had any success with pullers.
If you can't get a jack on it try getting a friend to back one side up with a sledge then whack the other side.

NEVER hit on the end of the thread, just never works.

Nutter
04-24-2006, 06:25 PM
Rusty,

Don't heat it. I respect my fellow posters, but I have to say this becuase I think you will damage that seal.

I'm a Jeep guy. I remove pitman arms at least six times a year for different projects or to help people that can't get them on their own. My method always works, even with a cheapy puller and a box that's laying loose on the floor (as opposed to solidly mounted on a truck).

Step one, remove the nut (done).

Step two, get a throw-away old nylon ratchet strap about 1" wide and wrap it around the threads several times to protect them.

Step three, put your puller on it and tension it using a breaker bar. Watch fro the little horizontal legs to flex and stop just before they break.

Step 4 using a 32 oz ball pein hammer or larger, beat on the pitman arm opposite of the arm itself. Hit it hard. Use both hands. Hit it several times. Maybe 10 or 12 good solid hits.

Step 5, tighten the puller some more. At least 1/4 turn, or until you feel that you are going to break it - whichever results in tightening more.

Repeat steps 3-5 until the pitman arm falls off.

Normally, it won't seem to loosen for the first few cycles - but it always comes off.

Evan
04-24-2006, 07:20 PM
Use an air hammer.

Fasttrack
04-24-2006, 09:36 PM
I obviously don't have alot of expierence but i would agree with Nutter. I saw this method used and it worked wonders. I often do something very similiar in removing stuborn fly-wheels and other press fit pieces.

torker
04-24-2006, 09:44 PM
Those things can be nasty. I just did one on my Toyota 4X4.
I broke two pullers using the old "tighten it and whack the end of the puller screw". Didn't budge.
Took it to a friend of mine who is a mechanic. He has a good puller but it's just a skinny little thing. I didn't think it'd work.
He always uses an impact gun to tighten the puller screw. Whacks the sides of the arm all around...tightens a bit...hits it again, then hits the end of the screw and so on. Thing popped right off.
He says the impact gun helps jiggle it loose.

Fasttrack
04-24-2006, 09:48 PM
Hehe i used an impact on a puller once - actually i used it on three which is exactly how many puller screws i stripped. Of course i think alot of that had to do with the fact i was using 15 dollar pullers from O'reily and was removing some hundred or so bearings from a rolling harrow :D

doctor demo
04-25-2006, 03:20 AM
This thing ain't budging. Already broke one puller(cheap). I don't want to dremel it off if I can help it. Any suggestions?
Oh. Yeah. It,s a 99 dodge ram pu 2wd.
Saw off the shaft flush with the backside of the arm, take it over to the press and press out the stubby piece of shaft and you will have a pitman arm in perfect condition, ready for installation when the new steering box arrives from dodge. Unless you want to reuse the old box too, in that case use the puller, bfh and have some bandages near by ear plugs can't hurt either.

J. Randall
04-25-2006, 03:20 AM
Use the proper tool, If you don't want to spring for a good one check with your local autoparts store. Sometimes they have loaners or rental tools. I have a good one that has changed probably over 50, and used an impact wrench on most of them. James

Ed ke6bnl
04-25-2006, 08:43 AM
I agree on tension and wacking, on my dually I removed the unit and put it in a press with a bearing puller plate under the are and only a 12 ton press there was a bang and it was off not sure it would have come off any other way. E d ke6bnl

Rustybolt
04-25-2006, 03:20 PM
Got it!! Thanks everybody. I used Nutters method, only I used a five pound sledge. There was'nt much room between the sway bar and the arm so I held the hammer head in both hands and whacked away. Once it broke free, it just fell off. I thought I was going to have a problem with the other end , but I used the puller on that too and it popped right off.
Thanks again for all the help.

Fasttrack
04-25-2006, 07:53 PM
You know, you probably wouldn't have had the problem in the first place if it was a chevy instead of a dodge...

just kidding :)

irontoart
04-26-2006, 10:42 PM
Just went through the same thing on a Ford Ranger. Feels good when it finally slides off. I ended up having to by the standard pitman arm puller after failing with a three jaw puller.

Rustybolt
04-27-2006, 02:10 PM
You know, you probably wouldn't have had the problem in the first place if it was a chevy instead of a dodge...

just kidding :)

Funny storey. I got the dodge because every Ford dealer I went to wouldn't deal. so I went to a local dodge dealer and just for the fun of it made a lowball offer on a 99 crew cab. They went for it. They're great trucks except that little stuff, usually electrical, keep going wrong. I think the biggest thing that went wrong was a busted water pump. Unfortunately it let go 15 miles at the end of a two track in the upper pennensula of Michigan. triple A actually sent a tow truck back in to get it out. I walked three miles or so before somebody picked me up.

Chester
04-27-2006, 02:42 PM
You know, you probably wouldn't have had the problem in the first place if it was a chevy instead of a dodge...

just kidding :)


That is funny, 'cause a lot of those Dodge pick-ups from 1972 to 1993 had Saginaw steering boxes on them. But, they can all be tough to remove including the (Mopar) vans and rear wheel drive cars. I solved the problem by making a puller out of 1/2" square rods and a 7/8" threaded rod with a trapped nut. Never had to heat the arm or bang it around with a hammer.......they do come off if persistent enough.

Duct Taper
04-28-2006, 01:22 PM
Isn't that severe banging on the side of the pitman arm kind of tough on the shaft, the bearings or even the box casting?

Chester, could you post a photo of your home made puller?

Rustybolt
04-28-2006, 06:04 PM
Isn't that severe banging on the side of the pitman arm kind of tough on the shaft, the bearings or even the box casting?

Chester, could you post a photo of your home made puller?


If they didn't want us to bang on it they wouldn't have put it on so tight.

firbikrhd1
04-28-2006, 09:21 PM
Tightening and hitting with a hammer is the way to go. In fact, quality pitman arm pullers i.e. Snap On, OTC and others have the top of the pressure screw designed as an anvil (rounded and above the hex portion) just for that purpose.
Forget heat, you will damage the seal.

Scishopguy
04-28-2006, 09:21 PM
I used to have to take the flywheel off the old Johnson 35 HP boat engine to do a tune up and that flywheel was torqued on to 125 ft/lbs. Needless to say taking it back off the tapered shaft took some puller power. When I first did it, a friend told me to mount the puller up and tighten the puller shaft until you felt like you were going to break something. Then whomp the end of the puller shaft with a ball peen and then re tighten. Do this about 3 times and it will pop off all of a sudden. Works great.

Jim (KB4IVH)

J. Randall
04-28-2006, 10:56 PM
Jim, I was doing that very thing on a 5 hp Tecumseh one time, on about the third hit I snapped the end of the crankshaft smooth off. James

Chester
04-29-2006, 02:06 PM
Isn't that severe banging on the side of the pitman arm kind of tough on the shaft, the bearings or even the box casting?

Chester, could you post a photo of your home made puller?

D. T. Here are a couple of crude shots of a crude puller. They were taken with a borrowed $20 digital camera, really hard to figure out where it is focusing. These two are the best of 15 taken. Anyway, you get the idea of what it looks like.

The side legs are 1 1/4" X 3/4 bar with a small piece of 3/8" bar welded to the bottom to form the jaw. Body overall length is 6" and width is 3 5/8". All tied together with 1/2" sq on the sides to prevent spreading. The rod is 7/8" dia. X fine threads with a captured nut in that upper section. The jaws are unmoveable and are sized to just slide over the free end of the Pitman arm (with a bit of wiggling) and grab the arm firmly. No magic for the materials selection, I just grabbed what looked about right from the junk box and started welding it together. I made this after breaking a rented puller, as I knew well enough not to try and get another from them. This was specifically made for a 1974 Dodge P.U. 4 X 4 (Power Wagon) that blew the seal (Saginaw box) and was spewing hyd. oil all over the place. I was able to drive it home by wrapping one of those rental shop rags around the sector shaft and enclosing the whole mess with a section of rad. hose clamped down with a hose clamp. At least got it to where it was only a trickle.

Also made ball joint sockets for my Mopars in a similar fashion. Can't just run down to a store and buy that kind of stuff here on this side of the border.


http://community.webshots.com/photo/183972727/2389375600059214605UMlXwk

Scishopguy
04-29-2006, 08:59 PM
Quote:

Jim, I was doing that very thing on a 5 hp Tecumseh one time, on about the third hit I snapped the end of the crankshaft smooth off. James

Wow James, I bet that really messed up your day! I never pulled the tension on the puller up that tight. I did see a guy try to screw one off with the puller and it busted the center right out of the flywheel once. In any of these operations Careful is the key word.

Jim (KB4IVH)

Fasttrack
04-29-2006, 10:00 PM
"I used to have to take the flywheel off the old Johnson 35 HP boat engine to do a tune up and that flywheel was torqued on to 125 ft/lbs. Needless to say taking it back off the tapered shaft took some puller power. When I first did it, a friend told me to mount the puller up and tighten the puller shaft until you felt like you were going to break something. Then whomp the end of the puller shaft with a ball peen and then re tighten. Do this about 3 times and it will pop off all of a sudden. Works great."

Absolutely! Before i gave in and bought a puller i made an el'cheapo homemade one out of 1/2 threaded rod and rebar. I'd crank down on it until the whole thing was bending like heck and then start beating on it. Tighten 'till it bent and do the same thing over again until the flywheel popped off.

Duct Taper
04-29-2006, 10:28 PM
Thanks Chester. I guess the secret is to make the tool stronger than you think you will need to make sure it can do the job. The bigger the screw and fine thread would make it a lot easier to use to. Good job.