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cuemaker
05-12-2006, 07:32 PM
I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get my cross slide off. I have removed all the bolts that I can find or feel. It rocks and moves, but wont lift up. The apron will move down some but not much.

I also cant see a way that my apron is going to come off either. It looks like the only way to get it off is to slide the 2 bars off and through the holes. ( the bars are for threading and moving the apron and cross slides on its own power)

I have been through el manuel carefully. The best it does for me is an exploded view of the part for reordering of the parts. Not much help, at least for me.


Any suggestions?

IOWOLF
05-12-2006, 07:41 PM
Sorry Cue, How about telling us what kind of lathe you have.
Sometimes you have to run them off the end of the lead/feed screws.

cuemaker
05-12-2006, 07:44 PM
good point wolfe. It a Clausing-Colchester MKII

Here is a pic


Edit: bad link to picture
hang on while i fix it

cuemaker
05-12-2006, 07:51 PM
http://community.webshots.com/photo/248153791/1248954595060463020WjuDRR

That will take you to a decent picture.

x39
05-12-2006, 07:57 PM
I think it is pretty much a given that you are going to have to remove your lead screw and feed rod before removing the apron of the machine. The cross slide is typically removed by removing the lead screw, loosening the gib, and sliding it off it's dovetail. Hope this is of help to you.

cuemaker
05-12-2006, 08:03 PM
x39.

Maybe I have made a mistake in my discription. You say the cross slide come off its dove tail with gibs, etc. Got that done. Its the pice that it sat on which bolts to the apron. Maybe its not supposed to come off?

Thanks for confirming the probability of having to take off the rod and screw(and telling me the proper names)

I will attack it that way.

Be back in a few.

speedy
05-12-2006, 09:06 PM
Cuemaker, if you are removing the saddle, you will have to remove the f/screw and l/screw. IIRC you will have to remove the gearbox top cover to enable leadscrew removal ( screwed collar and thrustsleeve key; it will be apparent. Before drawing the f/screw and l/screw through the support bushes at the rh end of the lathe bed, ensure that there are no burs to damage said bushes.
With the f & l screws removed the apron can be lowered onto supports or removed.
Next, slide the saddle clear of the apron, remove the front saddle strip then lift the saddle ( you may choose to remove the rear strip but the saddle can be removed with. )
I hope that this is of some help.

Ken

Furnace
05-12-2006, 09:06 PM
I have a Clausing/Colchester lathe and I am in the process of putting it back together....clean. Mine has two gibs on the cross slide, I took those out, removed the handwheel, and slid the cross slide towards the backside of the machine. I thought at first it was going to be a nightmare since there are factory tapped holes all over the cross slide and I had no idea what they were for. It was fairly easy once I figured out what screws held what. Good luck.

speedy
05-13-2006, 07:16 AM
Cuemaker, if you are removing the apron and saddle is it possible that you could post some images of the guts of the apron here or in your photo album? I am curious as to how the Master apron differs from the Student . Mine has no oil bath, just greased gears and spindle lube from button oilers.
Good luck with the shift.
Ken

cuemaker
05-13-2006, 09:12 AM
Ok guys, thanks for the help. x39 and speedy you guys where right on.

To top piece that I was refering to rides on the bed which bolts to the apron had a restraing clamp/piece of metal that could only be taken off after I got the lead screed and feed rod off. Once those where off, the apron dropped right off which gave me access to the piece of metal clamping that top piece on.

My lathe is now dismatled enough to clean and paint.

Question. Does the apron get painted? I havent found any traces of paint on it. Its also been about 36 years since it was painted also so it may have rubbed/chipped off. I see paint on the hand wheel though, and some parts of the top piece that ride my rails.

Also, all over the whole contraption is covered with drilled and tapped holes. Only of which a few are used in my current set up. And I mean alot. I guess maybe the apron and slides where common to many different lathes with different set up/features and the prepared them all the same. But they all are filled with gunk.

Can I filled these before painting if they have no value and will not have value to my set up?

Thanks for the help guys!

cuemaker
05-13-2006, 09:15 AM
Speedy, will do.

I am dial up at my house, so I dont know how long it will take to upload, but I will put them in my webshots album.

I will post again in this thread when done.

cuemaker
05-13-2006, 10:17 AM
Ok, next question.

On all of the pieces that have any gearing or hold oil, the inside walls are painted a yellow.

Do I assume correctly that I DONT want to strip any paint off those unless I am going to pull all the gears and repaint the inside again?

I am guessing that the paint is protective in nature against rust?

thistle
05-13-2006, 01:42 PM
The insides of my Colchester triumph 2000 is that wonderfull shade of yellow as well.
I wouldnt mess with it.

speedy
05-13-2006, 06:07 PM
No, the apron is not painted. I would not bother with the yellow Cuemaker, just another whole can of worms . Looking at your images the lathe looks in pretty good nick, so maybe just a touch up? ( my option).It is a working lathe , right?
While stripping your lathe, I`m betting that you have discovered plenty of gunge and swarf. Mine had plenty, especially below the headstock and between the lathe bed feet and the tray. Corrosion was just starting.
My apron has a few predrilled/tapped holes also; must be for all those inexpensive Colchester options :D (rapid threader etc).
Mucho thanks for the images.I will keep an eye out for them.
Hey, it is Mothers Day and the children are taking Mum to breakfast at a local restaurant and I get to tag along! I love my family:) :)

Ken

thistle
05-14-2006, 08:59 AM
I would suspect the yellow paint on the inside is insurance against any possible contamination from the raw castings surface on the machines inside faces ,a couple of grains of foundry sand in a precision bearing and well she aint so precision anymore.