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litman252
05-13-2006, 07:46 PM
Hello all,
I did a search on blades and decided on a Lenox 18tpi for my 4x6 horizontal/vertical saw. My only question is that the MSC supply catalog lists a thickness of .020" and my saw calls for a .025". Would this be the wrong
blade??

Link- http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=4473780&PMT4NO=7601643

Is there a better place to order them from??

Thanks,
Tony

PHiers
05-13-2006, 08:05 PM
Why not just buy the 14-18 vari-tooth one? It is .25 thick. I think if you went to a .20 thick blade you would have to adjust your guides to make them cut straight.

I buy the Morse blades from Enco, they are the .25 thick.

litman252
05-13-2006, 08:10 PM
I mostly cut 1/8-3/16" material and was thinking that the 14TPI was getting a little to course, am I wrong?? I do go up to 1/4" at times.

Tony

PHiers
05-13-2006, 08:24 PM
I have cut anything from 1/4th to 4 inch diameter without any problems using the vari-tooth blades. For 1/8 inch stuff I just use a hacksaw with 32tpi blade if it is round stock, if it is plate I put it in the vise on a angle to keep more teeth in contact with the metal and the vari-tooth works fine.

PHiers
05-13-2006, 08:29 PM
Enco www.use-enco.com has Starrett 18 tooth .025 thick blades for 11.13 each. They are on page 409 of their big book. They also have the flex back ones at 10.30.


Hope this helps.

Edited to add. They also have Kennametal Bi Metal ones in the .025, page 406

darryl
05-13-2006, 09:18 PM
On my 4x6, the .025 thick blades don't last very long, they crack all over the length in a fairly short time. They don't like constantly bending around those small wheels. All I use now are the .020 thick ones, and the guides are adjusted to suit.

litman252
05-21-2006, 10:28 PM
What feed rate do you guys use, mine is a Jet if it matters. Back the spring off or a little tension???
Thanks,
Tony

lugnut
05-21-2006, 11:45 PM
I’ve been using a 4X6 H/V saw for years and really like it. I’m just a home shop, mostly dinking, but do get into some heavy cutting every once in a while. I think my saw is one of the most used (other than the drill press) in my shop. I buy good quality Bi-Metal blades .025 X 14 tooth ($25) and they last most of a year unless I screw up and try to cut some hardened thing or get to close to a weld or torch cut.
I read somewhere, maybe here, that if you take a stone and round off the back side of the blade, that it will prevent it from cracking. I’ve been doing that and have not had a blade break of crack. ???
Mel

japcas
05-22-2006, 07:25 AM
The spring rate you set on the saw mostly depends on what you are sawing. The main thing to remember is that you don't want the saw to sit there and rub against the part. I have found that for softer materials and thin matereials that I will increase the tension a little to keep the saw from wanting to basically fall through the piece which can rip the teeth off of the blades. For materials such as a wide piece of steel I run it with virtually no tension to keep the saw from just sitting there and rubbing on the part. You should be able to tell by watching the saw if it is cutting well or rubbing more than it should.

sch
05-22-2006, 08:26 AM
A google on 4x6 bandsaw blade tensioning reiterates what I have read in the past. The 4x6 tensioner just barely gets up to the suggested 25kpsi tension level with unassisted hand tightening of the tensioner knob, and for a lot of us that aren't as strong as we used to be, it is a challenge to get much above 15-18kpsi. Several have described auxiliary handles easily made with
pins that insert into holes in the tensioner knob to allow easier torquing of the knob into the desired range. I know that this differs from the downward force spring previous posters are discussing.
Steve

darryl
05-22-2006, 02:22 PM
Interesting. I've never heard of adjusting the blade tension to suit the material being cut. I'll have to look into that, could be another 'tool' to use to optimize cutting.
Worst experience I've had with the bandsaw is cutting styrofoam. The particles just build up on the wheels and the tension increases until the blade snaps. I cut a lot of pvc, and I definitely have to keep the swarf cleared away. Time for a custom air nozzle blowing just above the lower guide bearings to do this job. I think I'll rig up a lower wheel scraper to help keep stuff off the wheel as well. Most of my cutting is in the vertical mode, so I don't have the benefit of gravity to help me keep it clean.

Maybe a small rotating brush on either side of the blade would be good enough to keep swarf away. Hmm. Would be a lot less power hungry than using air. I see another project in the works-

japcas
05-22-2006, 02:36 PM
Darryl, the spring tension I was referrning to was the downfeed pressure that is adjusted by the spring on the side of these 4x6 saws. You want the saw blade as tight as you can get it by hand or if need be with a little bit of assistance. With the knobs that are on these saws it would be virtually impossible to overtighten and break the blade.