My friend has a 1970 (i think thats the year) TA 340 with 12000 original miles on it, He just spun the rod and crank journal badly, He has had this happen a couple times before already. I wondered what is the most cost effective repair solution for him. I think its already .030 undersized. It is a original numbers matching with original paint also. He said he revs it to around 8200 rpm which i told him HMM no wonder you spin crank shells and journals. Any advice guys, Is spray welding or hard chroming a effective means of salvaging this thing. I appreciate your time Thanx Mike
spun journal
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I know a guy that "parked" the original numbers correct 327 on a 62 Vette and then put a modern 350 in it so he could still drive the car the way he likes. It's value thing. At that level the car's worth a lot more money with the original motor.
As far as your buddy's 340 the journal can definitely be welded up and re-ground, but if he's interested in maintaining the cars ability to appreiciate in value as the years go by, he'd better leave that motor alone and run something else at 8200!
Bill
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If he's already done this a couple of times before then he might as well trash the crank and install a new one.Stock engines aren't meant to survive in that RPM range anyhow.At least not for long.That's probably the reason he's had this problem before.A classic car with a non running original motor is eventually going to take a beating on the auction block.Is he rebuilding the motor himself?There may lay the problem to begin with.Especially if he's hoping for it to survive that high an RPM.
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it is a 70 trans am cudia or dodge charger with a 340 ci small block. proably with a tri power. also it was never ment to run to 8200 rpm. red line is some where around 5800-6200. and that is what it means red line after that it is only a matter of when it goes bang. not if but when.
yes he can get the crank welded up and start over. or he can buy a new crank mite be cheaper that way. i can get new steel cranks for the sbc for what it cost to gring the stock iron one.
now one other thing that a lot of people don't do is check the big ends of the rods and get them reconditioned with new rod bolts. i have a built 302 in my shop right now the guy spent all kinds of money on and lost a rod bearing. frist thing i asked was did you do the rods? he says no they looked ok.
as some one said about using another motor and keep the matiching one for later. that is what i am doing with my 66 vette. when i get ready to retire i will put matiching motor back in it.
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"I know a guy that "parked" the original numbers correct 327 on a 62 Vette and then put a modern 350 in it so he could still drive the car the way he likes. It's value thing. At that level the car's worth a lot more money with the original motor."
This would be my suggestion also - i think its fine if people want to drive thier vehicle hard as long as they recognize that it will damage the vehicle and as long as they have the money to keep sinking into. No different than most other hobbies. But if he wants to keep it all original numbers - well park the engine somewhere and buy a replacement that he can tear up if he wants.
Or, if hes not concerned with original numbers, just buy a new crank for alot less money!
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How does he get the stock valve train to rev to 8200? Should be getting lifter pump up/valve float before that.
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Spun Journal
This guys really ham handed. When i asked him why he revs it so high he said oh it sounds so good and really pulls at those revs. HM Im wondering now if the cam is in out of time. I am gonna just tell him to go somewhere else to get it fixed. I can see helping him out with it and then he revs it to 8200 rpm again and its done for. Dont want the blame. Thanx everyone
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it's just a crank. Have him source a correct replacement (material and year) and rebuild. Now if he sends a rod out the side of the block he'll have a tougher time fixing the problem. If he likes to drive it hard and cares about the number matching thing, swapping in a built 340 or 360 in it's place is a smart move.
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