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Tony
02-27-2003, 02:38 PM
russian, italian, or thousand islands?

i've never dressed a wheel.
there, i said it.

all of our wheels are used for heavy metal removal. usually to fishmouth tubing. they dont last very long at any given shape and are "recut" to produce the fishmouths we need.

"delicate work" has always been done on the belt sanders.

now that i'm getting into this drill sharpening routine (i've always just bought new ones) ... can someone walk me through dressing a wheel?

is a dressing tool used to shape and square a wheel? or only to get the cutting edge(s) back?

also, can drills be satisfactorily sharpened on a belt sander? what grit wheel should i be using to sharpen? the finest we have on hand is maybe 80.

-kH.

Axel
02-27-2003, 04:30 PM
80 grit might work for a gargantuan drill, say three meters diameter! But you don't want to go to fine either! 180 should work I think!

I don't have one myself yet, but if you are going to get a wheel dresser. Do get one of the diamond kind. I have used one that was shaped like a T. Exelent and easy to use!

yf
02-27-2003, 06:21 PM
The diamond dresser will do what you want.
Put a drill stop on its shank and run it along the edge of the rest to true (actually turn)the wheel. This will assure the wheels face is parallel with the tool rest. If you need to remove a lot of material do it in several passes. This is the easiest and fastest way I have found. (besides letting someone else do it http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif)

The star wheel dressers are only good for deglazing or minor truing, in my experience.
The diamond can easily reshape wheels to any profile you want.

I've sharpened bits on all kinds of abrasive machines, belt sander, die grinder, angle grinder etc. Not always perfect, but it got the hole drilled.

With a belt, you risk the edge grabbing into it, this is more of a problem with a coarser belt. Try a used 120 grit.
Needless to say you need a platten or contact wheel to back the belt when sharpening bits, or it will be difficult to get the point right.

With drill bits practice makes almost perfect http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif



[This message has been edited by yf (edited 02-27-2003).]

WJHartson
02-28-2003, 01:53 AM
There are two processes that you do to a grinding wheel. Truing and dressing. Truing the wheel get the wheel round and square or to the shape that you want on the wheel. Usually in the truing process the wheel is dressed ie exposes a new cutting surface. Dressing is the process that exposes new grit on the wheel so that it will cut smoothly and evenly.

Depending on what you are trying to grind and the type of wheel used will determine the type of truing and dressing tool to be used. For a standard bench or pedestal grinder I use a star wheel. For the wheels on my drill sharpener and end mill sharpener I use a diamond tool. The diamond is hard to use by hand and is usually in a fixture that is able to be feed across the wheel. The star wheel can be used easily by hand with just something to guide it like the tool rest.

Hope this answers your question.

Joe

merf23
02-28-2003, 09:08 AM
Knuckhead,
If you notch a lot of tubing, buy a notcher from Williams Lowbuck tools www.lowbucktools.com (http://www.lowbucktools.com)
They are fast accurate and last forever. Best $300 youll ever spend