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dgh43
11-26-2006, 10:28 AM
I want to thank Evan for the pully and all those that offered there help.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r259/D_D4570/mystand.jpg

Heres a close-up off the drive motor.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r259/D_D4570/2004_0430Image0006.jpg

Evan
11-26-2006, 10:36 AM
Glad to see it's working. You look pretty well equipped there Dwayne, nice setup.

A.K. Boomer
11-26-2006, 11:20 AM
Id hate to be Bambie in your neck of the woods;)

Evan I remember seeing that steel gear next to the original plastic one and making the comment that the steel looked not as wide, I think you said it was the same width as the plastic and it was just the way the pic made them look yet when i look at Dwayne's pic its obvious that the cog runs "short" on the belt --- If he starts shearing belt teeth and you have an identical gear perhaps a sliver could be matched up and welded? Not knockin anything --- its just that I thought i remember seeing this error by looking at the pics and it being the drive cog and also the smallest it would be critical to utilize all available cog teeth width to perform its function...


One more quick note; I see one other "drive flaw" the larger cog has a shoulder to keep the belt from riding off and so does the smaller --- but the shoulders are on the same side --- maybe this does not matter because of gravity or some other factor but generally the thing to do is have one on one side and the other on the oposing side, this makes it impossible for the belt to ride off and jump teeth or just ride to a point where it rubs on sharp surfaces and self destructs...

Evan
11-26-2006, 11:26 AM
Nope, I didn't say it was the same width as the plastic one. It won't hurt the belt at all to run slightly off the edge. I have never seen "shearing" of belt teeth. In fact, timing belts rarely fail. They usually wear out the pulleys they run on.
[edit]
Boomer, with this drive it moves exactly as far in one direction as the other. Any tendency to walk off in one direction will be opposed by a tendency to walk on in the other. Don't forget it is running very slowly and intermittently too.

Your Old Dog
11-26-2006, 12:00 PM
dgh, what are we using for a shooting iron.

Pictures of the trophy and the first meal would be appreciated !!

A.K. Boomer
11-26-2006, 12:10 PM
My bad -- you stated that the steel one was the "same width as the belt"

When it comes to teethed belts that run on steel cogs the ratio of replacement is somewhere between 5:1 to 10:1 in favor of the steel, IE if the parts are not running in constant dirt (like under the timing cover of a car engine)

Iv replaced hundreds of timing belts in automotive aplications, and never a single drive cog on cam or crank, seen some timing belts so bad that you can physically remove thier teeth just with your fingers and "peel" them off, and seen many of timing belt fail and take out interference fit engines (engines that when out of time stuff thier valves into the pistons) yet throw a new belt on and it fits perfect in the cog teeth with no room for any "rocking back and forth" (this is a big enemy of a timing belt when an engine idles because the camshaft is linked to all the valve springs and it takes power to turn the cam but then for a brief moment when the cam is on the other side of the Lobe it actually out accells the crank shaft--- this is why there are usually two different intervals in the owners manual at which to change a timing belt --- one is the regular duration and one is a sooner duration and its called "taxi cab" style driving --- it is where the engine has spent much of its time idleing instead of being driven, this is so rough on a belt that it has to be changed more frequenty)....
Iv ran the same drive cogs on some of my personal engines for over 400,000 miles, try and see how far the belt would go on same said engine, recomended change intervals --- 90,000 how far can you go before it fails? aprox. 120,000 what about if the engine has spent a great deal idleing through this duration ---- 90,000 to 100,000.

the Idle factor is more critical the fewer the cylinders the engine has, multi-cylinder engines require a camshaft of multi lobes and this evens things out to where the cam does not experience as much "jossleing"
DOHC engines segregate thier intake cam from the exhaust cam therefore on a DOHC four cylinder engine the "jossleing factor" at idle is extreme ---

Now take a DOHC horizontally opposed four cylinder (subaru) --- well -- you get the idea....

Getting back to the drive cog for the gun deal --- it looks as if its only utilizing 2/3rds of the belt and this is huge for longevity of the belt...

dgh43
11-26-2006, 12:31 PM
Your Old Dog dgh, what are we using for a shooting iron.

Pictures of the trophy and the first meal would be appreciated !!

Its a Remington 700 243win. As soon as I kill one I'll post it.

Alistair Hosie
11-26-2006, 12:49 PM
You look well set up I am not a hunter but believe if you eat the meat that's fine so have fun laddie best wishes from Scotland.Alistair

BillH
11-26-2006, 12:51 PM
Man, I love hunting, too bad I don't get around to doing it more. You look all set to go, have fun and get some!

Evan
11-26-2006, 01:46 PM
Getting back to the drive cog for the gun deal --- it looks as if its only utilizing 2/3rds of the belt and this is huge for longevity of the belt...
Not in this application. It won't make the slightest difference.

Timming belts are wear rated similar to tires, by distance traveled. It will take several millenia of constant use to wear the belt out in this sort of use.

JIMofalltrades031
11-26-2006, 01:54 PM
AK, As he only needs a little less than 180 degrees of movement and at a rate slightly faster than dead slow. I don't think the belt will see any shear forces likely to cause failure.

As to the engineering of the set up this could have been done more efficiently with a link and offset pin setup I would think.

Or maybe a wormdrive setup...

madman
11-26-2006, 02:05 PM
Shoot straight and Often Mike