View Full Version : HF 13x40 Paint Color

03-06-2007, 01:04 PM
Does anyone know the HF 13x40 paint color? I am going to build a stand and would like it to match. The Gizzly 13x40 is listed on Little Machine shop as Hammerite 43175 Mid Green. Wonder if they are the same.


03-06-2007, 02:12 PM
Speaking as a home machinist and fabricator, but one who happens to be an industrial designer, and who makes decisions about color for very expensive things, I wouldn't even try to match the paint.

I'd expolit that the stand is a different part, and do it in either the charcoal metallic grey Rustoleum hammertone, or satin black.

Silvers, blacks, and greys are your savior when you need to spec a color that has to go with anythings that's a "color"

03-06-2007, 02:16 PM
My exposure to a HF 12x36 at the store and my "standard Grizzly Green" (the current standard green) Mini-lathe suggests that the two are not the same at all. The HF stuff is more of an aqua-green color where the Grizzly is more of an evergreen color.

This reminds me of a comedian I once saw, talking about the crazy names for colors used today. He referenced a Cadillac that was painted "Antelope fire mist"....whatever that is :-)


03-06-2007, 04:18 PM
I think they just throw a bunch of leftovers into the mixer,and use whatever comes out:D.
If the "hammerite"is the english stuff,don't bother.It's absolute crapola!Won't dry for ages,and not very durable either.PLain old enamel is just as good,and will last just as long,or longer.

03-06-2007, 06:25 PM
I printed out a paint color of the grizzly green and if it is close, it is lighter than HF green.

The Hasmmerite green comes in mid and dark. Might mix the two. One would think HF would at least sell touch up paint.

03-06-2007, 06:43 PM
Take a picture of the Lathe and take it to a paint store they can match it.I have done this and it works out well...:D

03-06-2007, 06:55 PM
Problem is it is a hammered finish paint. They don't do those paints.

04-01-2007, 09:55 PM
I finally got a quart of the mid green and the dark green hammerite in and it looks like the mid green is almost a direct match. Ifr anything, it is a tad lighter but I put a dab on white paper and then compared it to the paint on the machine which has a darker base because of the stell.

I am going to put my first coat on and see if it matches better. It will probably be ok the way it is.

The hammerite paint is kind of tough to get. The first place I ordered it was via the internet and the place never answers my emails or phone calls.

Finnaly got it through "do it best" hardware store. $14 a quart.

I was also surprised to find out you don't spary it on but rather roller or brush. Explains some of the drips on edges of the machinery.

04-01-2007, 11:59 PM
He referenced a Cadillac that was painted "Antelope fire mist"

...must be a clear coat...if you fire at an antelope and missed...there's nothing there.

04-02-2007, 12:10 AM

04-02-2007, 12:19 AM
Thanks for the update JR. I hope you post pics. Did DIY happen to say if you could use a hardener?

04-02-2007, 12:28 AM
Ops, that was DIB, not DIY. I remember back in the 60's when Cadilac came out with the firemist colors. It was the rage of the hot rodders at a time when candy apple and metal flake was king. Oh well, thought I'd throw that in since Carl resurected the comment. ;)

04-02-2007, 02:47 AM
I was also surprised to find out you don't spary it on but rather roller or brush. Explains some of the drips on edges of the machinery.

The Rust-Oleum version can be sprayed or painted. Either way, it's hard to do vertical surfaces without serious sags and runs.

Your Old Dog
04-02-2007, 07:29 AM
Alabaster Green...................oh wait, maybe that was Alistair......... . I can't remember. :D

04-02-2007, 07:49 AM
Don't worry about any slight mis-match,a healthy coat of swarf,coolant and cutting oil will blend the two colors together seamlessly:D

04-08-2007, 04:47 PM
Some of you wanted a followup on the paint and stand with a picture.

Here is what I put together. A picture with notes below. We are remodeling the building. Hence the back wall.


HF 13x40 Lathe and Homebuilt Stand Notes

Harbor Freight paint colors are not always the same. I have a HF band saw that is a different green than the green HF 13x40 lathe.

Hammerite mid green hammered finish is a pretty close match to the HF green (at least on the lathe). The biggest difference is the Hammerite is a high gloss paint. The Hammerite is also a little lighter but can be darkened with some black.

The Hammerite mid green hammered paint is supposed to have powdered aluminum in it. It is normally applied with a paint brush or roller instead of a spray gun. That makes it cover extremely well, although it can be tough to spread, especially on wood, but it can be thinned with lacquer thinner. It can run and the runs seem to appear later than with regular paint. I assume that is because the thickness slows it down.

It dries fairly fast for an oil based paint and costs approx. $15 a quart. I personally had a hard time trying to get some online but finally got mine at the “Do It Best” hardware store.

The stands corner uprights are made of 2”x2”x1/8” steel square tubing. The cross pieces and shelf supports are made from 2”x2”x1/8” steel angle. There are not any angle cuts at corners and it welds together fast and easy. The two shelves are 2”x12” lumber supported by 2"x2" angle on the back side. The angles also help support the frame stiffness horizontally. I also cut 4 2”x3 1/2”x3/8” flat stock steel pieces to weld on the bottom of the uprights for bolt down plates.

Some people do not like to have their tooling so close to the lathe because swarf could be thrown up there. I personally have not gotten that aggressive with the lathe and like having tooling close at hand. I also like to just change holders rather than bits, even drill bits. One must remember to turn the lathe off before reaching for tooling for safety reasons.

The 1/2” sanded one side plywood is supported by 3 2”x2”x1/8” steel angle uprights that are welded to the stand base. On the front are 2 wood 2”x4” cut down and angled at 20 degrees. Holes drilled to hold tooling except for the toolpost toolholders. They are held in place by sheet metal angle pieces approx. 1 1/2” wide that fit between the angled grooves as if they were on a toolpost.

To cut down on vibration noises I bought a generic semi truck mud flap. At about $8 it is a flat 30”x24”x3/8” thick piece of rubber. I cut pieces to go between the top of the stand base and the lathe tray. I also cut pieces to go between the floor and the bolt down plates.

04-08-2007, 10:58 PM
Don't worry about any slight mis-match,a healthy coat of swarf,coolant and cutting oil will blend the two colors together seamlessly:D

You've been to my shop before. :D