View Full Version : tph rototiller

06-27-2007, 07:22 PM
Does anyone have a good designe for a rototiller to go on the back of a small farm tractor (Ford NAA size 35hp) with three point hitch? I was tossing around the idea of using a 9" Ford rear end for the drive?

06-27-2007, 10:35 PM
IIRC, Howard Manufacturing made a 4 Ft. tiller called a "Roto-vator" and it fit a 3 point. Maybe check out farm auctions.
I have a 3 ft. chain drive tiller for my Simplicity tractor....fits the Allis-
Chalmers/ Simplicity weird hitch though.

Mike Burdick
06-28-2007, 02:44 PM

I'm not aware of any plans for a 3-pt tractor mount tiller but I'll give you a couple of ideas and you can run from there...

Typically you will want to get the power from the PTO to one side of the tiller so the ford rear end will do that nicely. Fix this so it's on the top of the tiller. Then, like Rick says his tiller has, install a roller chain drive down to the tine axle from the side (this will also allow for addition speed reduction if needed). The roller chain should be in a sealed case and capable of holding oil. If you can weld, making this should be no problem. Also put the bearings in there so they too can run in oil. The other side of the tine axle's bearing also needs to be in a sealed case with oil but it won't be as difficult to make as it doesn't need the powered roller chain. If you can't find the roller, preferable tapered, bearings you need than bushing will work. Make sure you have access plates so that the roller chain, bushings, or bearings can be serviced or replaced easily.

Tiller's take a hard beating so make the tine axle from steam pipe or drill stem with at least a 5-1/2 to 6 -inch diameter and a 3/4 -inch wall. This can be turned down so that stock bearings and seals will fit. If you use homemade bushings, than one can make their own seals using O-ring material. Buy the tines, as these need to be tough and the steel for them will probably cost you more than bending and heat-treating them yourself. Don’t worry about making this thing heavy – that will only work to your advantage! Too light and the tiller will be "hopping" all over the place. For your size tractor, the tillers diameter measured from tine to tine should be around 16 inches – but you can change that depending on the soil you expect to use it in.

Before you start, you might want to go down to an implement dealer in your area and look thru their bone pile. You might just find many of the parts you need, especially the heavy-duty roller chain and sprockets. Junk dealers may also have this material.

One other suggestion… If the length of the tiller is less than the outside to outside of your tractor’s wheelbase (plus wheel weights if you have them) consider offsetting it by placement of the 3-pt hitch. This will allow for tilling close to fences, building, etc.

If you can't find plans, sketch your ideas up and post them (if you want) and this will give us a chance to go over them and make suggestions if needed. Two heads are better than one – as the saying goes…

Regardless, please keeps us informed ...

06-28-2007, 09:58 PM
You can probably buy a used one cheaper than trying to build one. And unless you can find tines, the price of stock and the heat treat will drive the price up. The tines WILL have to be hardened. A lot folks in rocky areas buy them and then find out they can't be used. That's how I got my 72" flail mower for $30. Look around. Also, after an initial till or two most go to disks. You can pick up a 1-2 year old used one for less than half the new price.

06-28-2007, 10:18 PM
Even new, they arent that much- I have a little 4 footer for my Yanmar, and it cost me just a bit over a grand, about 6 or 8 years ago.
Maybe $1500 now.
Seems cheap enough, considering everything that goes into it.
Half that, used, would be easy enough to find.

Here is a place that sells tines for $9.50 each-

06-29-2007, 12:29 PM
I just got done building a roto tiller for my skid loader. Even used ones I found were way too expensive. I have a few observations... I used 1/2"x2" CRS for tines, no hook, I originally had 52 tines in 72" of tiller, I was worried that I couldn't have too wide of gaps or "unswept" area. This was too many cutting edges, it was to hard to go deep. It wanted to scrape more than dig. I ended up cutting about half back off! Digs much better now. I used 4" sch 40 pipe for the rotating tube, and welded the tines on, I already had the stub shafts in each end aligned and welded out before I added tines, it did warp the tube a bit. I have self aligning bearings on the ends but eventually it will wear out the housings because of the wobble. ANSI 50 chain seems to be plenty for 72" of tiller.
Lots of things I would change, I am considering building #2 or the "should -have done this..." will drive me crazy forever. If you want I will email you pictures and more of the "should have done" list.

07-02-2007, 08:18 PM
Never thought of the tines having to be heat treated? Understandable though. Rocks in Newfoundland? Haven't found any yet. In my case there isn't much to choose from around here except new. That's why I thought of building one. Some good advice and ideas here. Thanks