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DICKEYBIRD
07-01-2007, 11:31 AM
My cheapo multi-size slitting saw arbor has too much runout and only about half the teeth on the blade are used when cutting. I decided to make a dedicated one for a 2.5" x 7/8" x .030" HSS blade.

The shaft was turned down to 3/4" from a 7/8" dia. auto suspension bolt. The cap and main body were made from a chunk of mystery metal I picked up at work. It must have been some of that "ledloy" stuff mentioned here often 'cuz turning it was an absolute joy. I gotta get more of that!

I wish I could say I single pointed the threads where the body and shaft are joined but I took the easy route and tapped them by hand. I knew from previous tapping exploits in the lathe that they wouldn't be straight and square so I waited until the 2 were joined permanently with Loctite 638 to finish up. I chucked it in the 4-jaw and dialed it in to zero before turning the OD and boring the ID to finished size.

The only snag I ran in to was the boring. The thing rang like a bell on every cut and after thinking about it, I was turning a bell! I finally slowed WAY down, clamped a couple lead weights on the outside of the body and it did OK.

I couldn't wait to chuck it up in a 3/4" collet in the mill to admire the results. The thing indicates dang near perfect but when the blade is clamped up, it runs out about .015". The #!#&@% blade has too much runout! I guess that's why the Chinese arbor is made with runout....to allow one to adjust the Chinese blade to the arbor to minimize runout.:(

Oh well, when I get a good blade, I'm all set.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/SawArbor2.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/DBAviation/SawArbor2Parts.jpg

Bill in Ky
07-01-2007, 01:25 PM
Nice job there! Where do you get your blades?

DICKEYBIRD
07-01-2007, 03:21 PM
Thanks Bill. I got them at Grizzly but I'm looking around for some better ones. I'm hoping to get some with less runout. These still cut fairly well but it seems to me like they'd have to last longer if all teeth were evenly involved in the cutting process.

lane
07-01-2007, 05:58 PM
Dont worry adout the run out .Nexk time it will cut on some other teeth. You won`t ever get a radial cutter to cut on all the teeth . But nexk time you use it it will cut somewhere else. Typical of a radial cutter.

Mcgyver
07-02-2007, 08:43 AM
what lane said. this is why you have to feed the thin ones so slowly - forget about tooth load calcs, they are only going to cut on a few teeth per rev

Scishopguy
07-02-2007, 04:28 PM
Dickybird,

Nice looking arbor. That should work just fine. Don't worry about the little bit of runout in the slotting saws, I believe that they are made that way on purpose. I have used a lot of them, mostly USA made, in many different thicknesses, on many different arbors, and they always have some "lope" to them. I figured that it is like the variable tooth bandsaw blade theory, it is less likely to grab the part as it eases into the cut.

Keep up the nice work!

BigBoy1
07-03-2007, 01:51 PM
My slitting saw arbor is very similar to your but every time I have used it, I can not get it tight enough to keep the saw spinning. What usually happens is that part way into the cut, the saw stops spinning ans spins on the arbor. I've tried tightening as much as I can but the saw still ends up spinning of shaft. I even tried mounting it both ways so the shaft would spin in the other direction but still not working. Checked for burrs and unevenness and didn't find any.

Maybe it doesn't work because it was made in China and I would have better results if I made one of my own. At least, then I would know things are square!

Bill

matador
07-03-2007, 05:57 PM
Bill,cut a washer out of 60 or 80 grit sandpaper,and put on arbor before blade.Works for me.Also,don't overdo the feed,especially with low teeth count blade.My$0.02.

BigBoy1
07-04-2007, 08:55 PM
Thanks for the tip. I'll try it the next time I crank up the slitting saw.

Bill

oldtiffie
07-04-2007, 10:57 PM
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