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madman
07-02-2007, 09:11 AM
Well long time ago i posted a question regarding Bucking Hard Rivets for my Boat Project. Well with all my projects set aside yesterday i did some rivets. They came out great. I am going to start using this tequnique on more projects. If i was better at photos id send some maybe will try later on. Mike

Evan
07-02-2007, 09:45 AM
Heres a tip for drawing up the layers and making sure they seal well. Find a BIG bolt and clean up the end on a sander or grinder so it is flat with rounded edges. Drill a hole in the end slightly larger in diameter than the rivet shanks. Use this before setting the rivet by placing the end over the protruding rivet shank and giving the rivet head a whack to compress the sheet metal and seat the rivet head. If the rivet is loose in the hole then give the rivet a couple of hits against the bucking bar to tighten it, then use the bolt to tighten up the stack before riveting.

Forrest Addy
07-02-2007, 12:07 PM
If you haven't heard of it already use some stuff called "Aluminastic" in all the faying surfaces to seal and bond them. This is the stuff thay use in airplanes to seal ffuel tanks, floats etc. When it cures it doubles the shear strength of the riveted joint so I'm told. Without it or some other caulking material an aluminum boat is one big slow leak. Make up a bunch of sample joints to prove your technique. It's very easy to over drive aluminum rivets so they buckle the adjacent material or split the margin.

madman
07-02-2007, 06:28 PM
Thanx for the Tips. I used all aluminumn Rivets seat material and also 1.5 inch aluminumn angle brackets for mounting the seat to the Hull. It looks way stronger than Mirrocrafts useage of thin bracket thats u shaped and all broken, I used two bolts to hold everything tight drilled rivet and so on. It is above the water Line and if it ever takes on qwater with zero foam flotation ill just call er the Titantic. It would suck to lose that nice 25 horsepower power trim tilt Yamaha 4 Stroke though. Thanx again, Mike