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Herb Helbig
04-26-2003, 12:00 PM
I just noticed lynnl mention how he loved his H/V bandsaw. Me too! I got a JET without knowing it by ordering one from MSC. The other day I needed to cut some small parts (arms for Rudy Kouhoupt's balanced knurling tool), so I made an insert for the slot where the blade winds up it cut to support the little pieces, and drilled and tapped two 3/8 - 16 holes, 2" apart, about 0.8" from the left hand edge of the slot so I could use clamps to hold the pieces down.

It took a little hand fitting to get the insert to fit nicely in the slot, but I figured it would pay off for future work.

I've also drilled and tapped a hole behind the band saw's fixed vise jaw for a clamp to hold the tilt vise that came with my mill/drill. That's another way to hold small pieces for band sawing, but it has its limitations. Direct clamping is always nice.

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lynnl
04-26-2003, 12:23 PM
Herb, it's a small world. That's the same project I'm working on... Rudy's knurling tool. (More correctly, it's the project that's been waiting 3 or 4 months for me to finish it. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif) )

I've been trying to mentally engineer some type of small part holddown/clamp for my bandsaw too. I'm trying to picture that slot insert you describe: how do you attach it to the saw bed itself? Or do you just have it nestled into the slot snug enough to permit only upward displacement, e.g. when you remove it?

mklotz
04-26-2003, 06:06 PM
Here's another trick for holding small parts
in the ubiquitous H/V saw. Get an el cheapo
drill press vise - the rectangular kind that will lie flat on its side. Drill and tap the
outboard end so it can be screwed to a piece of plywood in the vertical position, i.e., with the vise screw sticking straight up. If you choose a narrow enough vise, the plywood can be clamped in the saw vise and the side of the dp vise will be right next to the saw blade as the saw descends. On my saw, a ~2" wide dp vise will not interfere with the up/down motion of the bandsaw mechanism. YMMV

Using this arrangement, I can saw a 1/8" thick slice off a 3/4" long piece of stock.

Marv

HSM freeware at:
http://www.geocities.com/mklotz.geo

Don Warner
04-26-2003, 08:07 PM
One of the best things you can do for the Asian H/V band saws is to bolt a pair of wood 4 x 6 boards down low to the sheet metal legs to stiffen it up.

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Cass
04-27-2003, 10:43 PM
I have two pieces of steel about 1" thick x 2" wide and long enough to butt up against the band saw blade and still fill the width of the saw vise. One of the two pieces has a Vee groove milled in it. Small short pieces go in between the two pieces. Seems most of the time the short pieces are round so the Vee groove holds them nicely.

darryl
04-28-2003, 12:56 AM
Good trick, Cass. It helps to put a chunk of the same piece you're cutting at the left of these new 'jaws' to keep them parallel when the piece is short, as well.
Regarding the h/v bandsaw, mine is mounted to a piece of plywood, which pivots on a bolt through a bench. My bench is only 18 in. wide, and normally, the saw is set parallel to it.(on it) If I need to cut lengths over 15 in. or so, I swing the bandsaw out perpendicular to the bench, supporting the overhanging end on a post, and now have room for cutting a full length (20') to any size. Just a way of dealing with space constraints.

Ragarsed Raglan
04-29-2003, 02:54 PM
My widget for cutting smaller pieces on the 4 x 6 was to bolt a small offcut of angle 1.5" x 1.5" x 1.5" long on the outside of the blade. This was clamped to a bar which was held in the vice against the normal fixed jaw to line it up; before drilling and tapping the table. This outrigger jaw for the fixed jaw has to be removed for mitre cuts but works great for a lot of other stuff.

A bolt was also added to the moving jaw on the left side of it, this is used as a compensation device when gripping a short length which would normally mean the moving jaw would want to swing in (funny, how you can never find material the right thickness to use as packing, in a case like this!). I also have a couple of old 'shot up' vee blocks that were picked up from a car boot sale for a couple of $. These work great for gripping tube and bar.

RR