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Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 11:45 AM
Apart from safety what are the main advantages disadvantages of cutting above centre height.Before you all jump on me what I really mean is sharpening on an eight inch wheel grinder using the table provided and a subsiduary table which would sit above centre height of the wheel.I know if you go too high you can have the wheel throw the tool out towards you just like a saw blade.I have anice grinder which is really very good with two eight inch wheels I have quite a few grinders for tools with tables built in but the one I am asking about only has a little table/rest for your tools and does not or cannot be set to an angle is it in this case feasable to add an extension table which will sit on top of this little rest.Hope this is clear here is a picture.
Alistair basically the tool rests are too small for my shakey old hands:D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/tybachdai/100_1232.jpg

A.K. Boomer
09-13-2007, 12:35 PM
I think Id be more worried about cutting below center as this has the potentual to draw the tool into the wheel ----- I think your fairly safe unless your tool has allot of mass and catches then it could impale you:p

I will say this --- i wish I had your grinder, its built like a brick #%*@ house...
Never seen a more solid table/rest than that, very nice ...

SGW
09-13-2007, 01:33 PM
By setting the table at a suitable height above center, you can rest a lathe toolbit on the table and grind any specific angle you want -- at a wheel radius of 4", what is the distance above center you need to get a tanget angle of, say 7 degrees to the vertical, etc.

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 02:06 PM
yes I have a few different grinders this ones 3 phase .These gryphon motors in my opinion are the very best they go on and on and on, I have seen one used in dentistry for grinding polishing dentures in use every day for 35 years and still works as good as the day it was made.This one of mine is relatively new.Alistair

aboard_epsilon
09-13-2007, 02:07 PM
I would look at the possibility of taking the guards off the side and grinding on the side of the stone ...if it can take it ...or possible ..

make your tilting plate on centre, on the side

grinding cutters on the front of the wheel will gouge a radius out of them....so not ideal.

other comments welcome

smart looking 3 phase distribution box you have there .. :D

all the best.mark

BadDog
09-13-2007, 02:39 PM
I made a new table for my Baldor grinder (well, one side, have yet to complete the other side) that I should take a pic of. I think it would be JUST the thing for that grinder. I'll try to take a pic tonight.

But it's made from 1/2" steel plate (CI would be better, but I had none convenient) and it allows working the front, side, and corners equally. It's also designed to provide a guide for dressing square, and future attachments that may need to traverse square to the wheel (say, for threading tools). I freehand most stuff, so a "quick release" is also in the works. And that will also allow "quick adjust" for setting arbitrary height or angle to the work. Like I said, I think it would be just exactly what you need, and not hard to make...

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 02:57 PM
smart looking 3 phase distribution box you have there ..

Mark the guy who helped me cobble it together is iof Royal stock a natural born genius:DAlistair

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 03:00 PM
Thanks bad dog sounds good to me. Yes as mark said grinding on the side would be better I use this for more heavy duty grinding normally as I have a few others which are deicated and purely designed to cut on the side and come with tables already built in Alistair

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 04:54 PM
here following on from my question about grinder rests are afew shots of my workshop other grinders I have etc Alistair

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/tybachdai/workshopgrinderoverview005.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/tybachdai/workshopgrinderoverview007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/tybachdai/workshopgrinderoverview010.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/tybachdai/workshopgrinderoverview002.jpg

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 05:02 PM
look up some more pics post for a few more Alistair

John Stevenson
09-13-2007, 05:04 PM
If I'd have known you were collecting grinders you could have had a big 10" Wadkin free standing one.
Took it out a couple of weeks ago and threw it in the skip because it needed a new wheel :D

These big 440 volt grinders are cheaper to buy with a new wheel and then throw it away :D

Put an 8" Wolf on Ebay a while ago 9.99 start bid and that's all it fetched. Got about 4 or 5 of these so I'm just going to drag one out use it until the wheels are gone then Ebay it and get another one out.

They are nice grinders though and really do the job.
Get a casting and really press on and before you know it you are down to your elbows

Just ordered a heavy duty wire wheel today from J&L, 15.00, more than the grinder is worth...............................

.

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 05:11 PM
John I casn assure you mines arent going for the price of a wheel they all have gryphon motors and are not antiquated like some of the old clunkers but you are righ they sometimes go cheap.I love them old grinders can be very handy don't understand why you seem to get them for free.I know your a nice guy but :D:DAlistair ps anything else you caNT SELL DONT THROW AWAY ASK ME AT LEAST FIRST i STILL SAY THE sorry about typing that the big shaper you had on wheel was the best one I have seen in a long time and thet didnt fetch mutch either funny world me ol cock sparrah

John Stevenson
09-13-2007, 05:31 PM
Mostly they are grabbed from company sales by employee's, taken home and then found out they are 440 volt 3 phase and can't be used at home.

Often they give them away or swap them for something of little value.
I picked 4 up mounted a big big steel table with two vises because it was too big for the scrap men to take away.
I saved the grinders, got two left, gave the vises away and cut the table up for scrap.

.

aboard_epsilon
09-13-2007, 05:37 PM
have you put that oxyacetylene profile cutter to use yet john ..

how about some pics of it doing its stuff ..
that would be interesting


all the best.mark

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 05:43 PM
John You seem to be well served and of course well known to the right people to get stuff like that.I couldnt get the flu for nothing :DAlistair ps do you have a hiab John?

John Stevenson
09-13-2007, 05:45 PM
Mark No, sold it.
Everyone told me they were worth nothing but a guy drove down from Glasgow way and paid 300 notes for it, I thought it fetch about 100 quid ?
Best sale though was a diamond saw I fished out the skip at the local university used for cutting slices off concrete samples.

I was in two minds to strip it and sell the motor and soft start on their own but stuck it on Ebay to see how it went.
That made 420 quid.

I needed the room and bought one of those tipping skips that go on a fork truck. Was going to build one but the scrap man found two at Rolls Royce when they were clearing a building, still in wrapping, so I bought one for 120.

Alistair, no hiab but the scrap man has one on his truck and so do two local builders.

Alistair Hosie
09-13-2007, 05:56 PM
A Hiab is a great thing when you want to buy machinery .As long as you've got a pal with one ,the old favours act comes in handy sometimes. I am sure you will over the years done a lot for others John .The best story you told me was when you told the little arse at the local college to bugger off when he asked you for moutains of certyificates when you went to collect a machine I thinks I got the story straight .Alistair

BadDog
09-13-2007, 09:52 PM
Man, I would have to get that guard of the belt/linisher. A contact wheel is nice, but I would want to add a flat platten and use the slack belt too; that's the very best part of using the belts...

BadDog
09-13-2007, 11:45 PM
Below is my grinding support as it currently exists, not quite finished. It fits around the wheel very snuggly (less than 1/32" clearance), but does not rub. It can be adjusted to fit the 7" wheel until long beyond the worn out point. And underneath the notch the plate is clearanced back at 45* so that you can get just as close to the wheel even when the back of the table is down 45*+. It was made with a piece of structural (probably 1010, but machined so nicely, maybe better?) 1/2 x 4 x 5 angle iron that I got for $0.10 per pound at the scrapper. It was fully "squared up" on the mill using (mostly) a 3" fly cutter. The edges are near perfectly square to the wheel and all sides can be used as tool/jig guides to traverse square to the wheel.

I still need to make one for the other side, and some tool-less fasteners to allow easy/fast adjustment. But so far, I'm very happy with it...

http://www.members.cox.net/darthtruggy/junk/grinder1.jpg