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Jerry: On small parts, I use an aluminum blackening solution from Birchwood Casey (and others) from a local gun shop. It leaves a black oxide (selenium ??) which is not as durable as anodizing but looks pretty good if you've cleaned the aluminum well before application.
If you're not into the chemistry aspect of home anodizing, commercial anodizing can be done (lot charges start in the $50 to $70 range in NH area). If the color you want is being run, your cost may be less.
Powder coat painting can also be done at home and there are some sites (sorry, I forgot to bookmark them) which show how to get started. Gives a nice, durable finish.
Den
Alistair,
Very interesting website. If we were closer I would stop by and learn from you. This is a small project, I am doinga metal sculpture for the childrens area of my local hospital, it a multi level mobile, with fish and fishing stuff.
My apprentice and I decided on aluminum, because of the weight and the ease of cutting. Now it's giving them some texture and colour.
I have found that chemicals very difficult to get here to do proper anodising. As such I have a local plating shop that does my stuff. I have a Fischer Isoscope to check the anodised layer thickness - .0008" minimu gives a good black. Thicker is better, but this also affects physical dimensions of the part.
I followed the instructions given at the site Alistair referred to. Excellent results. Very little cost. I already had a good power supply, but a battery charger would do. Sulfuric (battery) acid from the auto parts store. I did order the dyes from Caswells, probably the most costly investment, but properly cared for, will last a long time.
Wes
Weston Bye - Author, The Mechatronist column, Digital Machinist magazine
~Practitioner of the Electromechanical Arts~
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