View Full Version : Glue cast iron?

David Hafnorske
05-15-2003, 06:28 PM
Had a brilliant thought at 4:30 am. The gear cover on my lathe is cast iron and is broke by the hinge pin no pieces missing just reamed out so that the cover hangs and rubs when all the way closed. At work I use a glue for sheet alumunum. Works great!! just as good as welding. So I thought if a common Joe could purchase the stuff I could use that. But will glue stick to cast since it has a high carbon content? anyone have any experience or know what kind of glue to use and where to get it?

05-15-2003, 06:36 PM
I'd use a 2-part epoxy. Dunno how it would work though....

My favorite is "Acra-Weld" from Brownell's. www.brownells.com (http://www.brownells.com)
A bit more expensive than the hardware-store stuff, but I think it's worth it.

05-15-2003, 06:38 PM
JB Weld might work. You can purchase it at Lowes, Home Depot and hardware stores. it is and epoxy product. If you use it make sure you give it the proper time to cure and that everything is clean.


05-15-2003, 08:10 PM
I've used J B Weld before and would recomend it or the Acra-weld(if it's as good as Acra-glass I'm sure it's first rate).I've used Lockweld too and it's faster setting than J B Weld.(Doesn't run as bad but still takes time to set.)If you use a piece of aluminum foil to make a dam the stuff will stay in place and you can peel the foil off when it sets.Leave J B Weld alone for 24 hours if possible.Use auto brake cleaner to clean out the pores too.The epoxies will stick better to a rough surface than a smooth one too.You might run a tap in the hole first to give it something to grip.
Another thought is to bush the holes back to fit the pin.You might get lucky and the pin may be the same size as a car door hinge pin.Most auto parts stores have pin and bushing kits that might save you some trouble.Of course,you could make them in less time than hunting them down at the parts store(especially a large chain that shall be nameless here).Robert.

05-15-2003, 10:16 PM
JB Weld (and similar) works good on iron IF...
It's clean of all oils. (Hard to do with cast)
It won't get above about 250 degrees.
It won't be exposed to antifreeze or similar coolants.
Not subject to stress. (Tension or shear)

Other than that, I've used it many times with good results. Welding or brazing would be better.

05-16-2003, 04:17 AM
Urethane glue for wood working will also glue metal - you have to wet one surface with water for it to cure. This glue is much stronger than epoxies and is more flexable.

05-16-2003, 04:32 AM
Loctite makes a product called "Plastic Steel" or something, also "Plastic Stainless", Plastic copper and several others. It is a 2 part epoxy loaded with metal powder. It is routinely used for repairs in metal. Just fill up the hole and the machine a new one. I would put a piece of tubing in the hole if there is bearing application although the plastic steel is pretty hard relative to epoxy. I think MSC sells it.

05-16-2003, 08:36 AM
Well, as ridiculous this may sound, Superglue will work. I fixed the gear train cover on my 10" Atlas after it had been dropped. The repair has held for three years now.

If it were a load-bearing piece of cast iron, then welding or brazing would be necessary.

05-16-2003, 09:00 AM
there is another JB product that is faster setting. I believe it's called JB Quick

Alistair Hosie
05-16-2003, 09:23 AM
I once had a lid from the belt housing for a woodworking lathe broken some pieces were so small and others missing I just clued it together temporarily and made a cast mould in plaster then removed all the small pieces vaselined the mould as a seperating medium and built up the broken and missing pieces with car body filler roughening the edges of the broken parts first of course when it came out of the mould I sanded it all smooth and painted it looked good as new ,Alistair

Weston Bye
05-16-2003, 12:39 PM
Used JB weld to plug leaks in the oil pan of an S-10 pickup. Seems the pan rusted through where an internal baffle was spotwelded. Got the engine warm, drained the oil. In the morning sanded the surface to bright metal, cleaned off the outside with laquer thinner, let dry and smeared on a gob of JB. Was still holding oil after 4 years when I sold the truck.