View Full Version : Milling maching table removal process..??

10-10-2007, 07:43 AM
Is there an easy way to take a milling machine table off?. I need to take the table off so I can move the mill through a 30" door. I have a new 9 x 42" machine sitting in my garage. I know there must be a simple way and process to go through. Any help or advise would be appreciated so that I don't screw anything up!

Thanks for your help in advance...................Krems

John Stevenson
10-10-2007, 08:02 AM
First thing is look under the table at the screw.
It will be plain at one end and threaded at the other. This determines which way the screw comes out the nut.

So take the end bracket off the table and the screw at the threaded end. Then take the end bracket off the table at the other end and wind the screw out the nut and put safe.

Remove the gib strip from the bed, some have a push / pull screw at one end, some have two push / pull screws, one at either end.
Then with either a shop crane or two decent sized guys try carefully to lift the table off.
Some will lift off, a genuine bridgy won't as the gap left by the gib strip isn't enough to clear the dovetail.

In this case you need to slide the bed sideway off the knee. It shouldn't matter which way you slide if both end brackets are removed.

Not a hard job the worst bit is the weight of the table. If you lower the knee as much as possible it's also possible to slide it sideways onto a trestle or similar. Just take care with the weight.


10-10-2007, 09:37 AM
Not a hard job the worst bit is the weight of the table. If you lower the knee as much as possible it's also possible to slide it sideways onto a trestle or similar. Just take care with the weight.

i used a b&d workmate, lower the until until the bottom of the table is at level with the top

10-10-2007, 10:54 AM
Some further suggestions based on how my import is set up, which may or may not be relevant.

Take the handles and dials off. On mine, once that is done it becomes (relatively) obvious that one end of the leadscrew is held in the left-hand table end bracket by a locked castellated nut and the right-hand end of the leadscrew has only a circlip. I take off the circlip, which frees the leadscrew at that end, and take out the bolts holding the table end bracket at the castellated nut end, then crank the leadscrew out of its nut, which removes leadscrew+end bracket leaving the table and the end bracket where the circlip was.

I then take off the other end bracket and reinstall it with circlip on the leadscrew, leaving the bare table. (Reinstalling on the leadscrew just ensures I won't lose track of how it's all supposed to go back together....)

Remove gib, slide table off, taking full note that it will be HEAVY. But it's not difficult.

10-10-2007, 11:52 AM
Heavy as in upwards of 250#. Make notes and photos
as you go so if reassembly is delayed for awhile you
while have something to go on in reassembly.

Forrest Addy
10-10-2007, 12:03 PM
Are you sure you need to remove the table? Can you remove the door and the bell cranks to gain clearance? Can remove the sill (if present) to allow casters or rollers free passage?

Try this. Move the machine close to the door with the back of the column facing the door opening. Crank the saddle to front of the knee. Crank the table to the left (or the right, depending on nearby immovable interferances). Thread the base through the door. Once the table obstructs further passage, angle the base around to get as much of the machine through the door as possible. Then crank the table the other direction so the machine can complete passage.

If you want to see if the move can be made, make a 1/2 plywood outline mock-up of the machine's floor plan without the table outline. Make a separate 9" x 42" plus bracket and lead screw you can clamp in position on the mock-up. Thread the mock-up through the door in various ways until you see how to do it. According to my CAD manupulations it should be just barely possible to pass a fully assembled Bridgeport turret mill through a 30" door in a 2 x 4 stid wall but you may have to remove the casing.

It's easier to manipulate a 10 lb mock-up than a 1500 lb turret mill. But first remove the door and nearby interferances. If it shows you can't then you're only out the time to make the mock-up. Then you will have to remove the table.

10-10-2007, 12:19 PM
I think in another post he said he had a 4" pipe close to the entry way and was sure he needed to pull the table.

The mock up is a good idea though.

10-10-2007, 12:25 PM
Thanks for the help. I think I have the info i was looking for. I may try and move the machine throught the door first just out of curiosity. I have a 4" PVC pipe in the way that is probably going to ruin my chances. ....

Great suggestions and thanks again!


10-11-2007, 12:45 AM
The milling machine table is off. No problems thanks to all the help I got from this forum. Tomorrow the crane arrives to lift the mill over the house.

I'm hoping to get some sleep tomorrow. I just want to get the mill inside the house.

I'll take pictures and put them here for you guys to look at. Thanks again


10-11-2007, 07:18 AM
OK so it's a piece of PVC or ABS pipe, assume drain stack. Get 2, 4 inch Fernco or Mission couplings, a hand saw and don't flush.....Cut out the piece of pipe, move mill thru the door as per Forrest, and re-install the pipe....



A.K. Boomer
10-11-2007, 10:30 AM
I did my 8 by 36 inch by myself with nothing but my arms and it was a grunt and had to be taken off and put back on from the sides, the most critical part is right at the end or begining of removal installation, you cannot slip or deviate because the table will take out its OR the saddles dove tails,

Now that you have your table removed may I make a sugestion, (or at least a consideration) if your mills typical it will have the one shot lube, nows the time to take some brake clean to the vertical lines that run up from the saddle --- get them sqweeky clean and apply some durable silicone sealant all around thier parameters where they go through the saddle, most all your other one shot fittings have a gravity effect and allow plenty of lube, the saddle to the knee self drains and so does the knee to base but the table gets a quick spirt and then bleeds back into the line and the rest goes between the line and saddle hole clearance which doesnt do anything but lube the paint on the mills base, before I did this my one shot would go right through its pump with no resistance, now it takes an amazing 5 or 10 seconds to do so and I watch as fluid collects between the table and saddle, Some of this success however is also due to the fact that I also sealed my lead scews with O-rings where they mount and siliconed its feed tubes, My leads are little "gearboxes" now and the only place for fluid to excape is past the lead threads, Nows the time, youv got everything right there, (plus youll save on Vactra:) )

Edit; one last note for all you one pumpers out there, Most check valves are in the pumping mechanism itself, so the lines end up at a collection fitting, draining to their lowest point , This means that the first part of your pumping action goes not to lubing the higher working parts but removing the air from them... so not only are tables "vertically challenged" and imediatly bleed down they also are starved from the beginning and never see the same amount as the other units unless your collector has check valves and metering screws...