View Full Version : Indian drill

John Stevenson
05-16-2003, 03:15 PM
So tonight in my ever and never ending quest in the search for the floor I started moving usefull stuff around. Have you ever noticed we never collect un-usefull stuff?
Anyway I digress again.
On the floor [ where else ] was one of those rotary hammer drills that are imported from the far east and sold all over. We buy them here for 20 UKP, about $30 so they must be around in the US as well.
This has done sterling service belting 100's of 20mm holes into 8" thick concrete floors to fasten laser machines down.
Recently it's been playing up so it was replaced and the old one kept for spares.

I took a quick look tonight at the internal damage to the hammer mechanism. This is beyond economical repair given the price of the replacement but when all the guts is stripped out you are left with a hollow driven tube with an internal bore of 25mm.

Thinking cap on, swift search thru the bits box and found a piece of decent steel 40mm diameter and 10 " long.
Swift bit of lathe work and we have a No.3 mores in one end, equally swift bit of mill work and we have an ejection slot. Back in the lathe to turn down to 25mm, loctite, press in and drill thru and fit roll pin, nice belt and braces jobby.
Stick it all back together and for no outlay other than about an hour and a half's work I now have a slow speed morse drill that can take a chuck ar anything up to 3 MT.


I call it an Indian drill because it has no stupid electronic speed control, just a heap big f**k off drill. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

John S.

Dr. Rob
05-16-2003, 03:27 PM
Is that your research documentation and patent application in the background?

John Stevenson
05-16-2003, 03:40 PM
No that's the office.

John S.

05-16-2003, 05:57 PM
I'd hate to be hanging on to that sucker when it hangs up. Better have someone stand by with an axe to cut the cord if it does.
Bet you got distracted with project and still haven't found the floor.

John Stevenson
05-16-2003, 06:07 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JCHannum:
I'd hate to be hanging on to that sucker when it hangs up. Better have someone stand by with an axe to cut the cord if it does.
Bet you got distracted with project and still haven't found the floor.</font>

Damn, I knew I was doing something http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif
Actually this is a bit OTT with the 1 1/8" drill in it.
What I'm aiming for is a slow all mechanical drill to take up to about 3/4"
I bought a mechancal two speed model but slow is about 1800 and fast is about 4,000rpm which makes it useless.

Years ago I had an old Wolf drill that did what this one does, about 600 rpm and no fancy electronic triggers.
OK they do snatch but if you are determined you can hold them.
All my larger power drills have the hold button removed as no matter how you hold them if it snatches the hold button gets pressed with paainfull results.

John S.

05-16-2003, 08:00 PM
"nice belt and braces jobby."
Good quote.Should put it on.See third hand.
It would be great to spend a year working in a shop with someone like you.What things a person could learn.A great thinker and a great "hands on" person.Keep posting the ideas and pics

G.A. Ewen
05-16-2003, 08:48 PM
Beautiful Job! In this day and age of "buy it, use it till it breaks, then throw it away" it's good to see that there are still some people innovative enough to bring good tools like this one back to life. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif

George Hodge
05-16-2003, 09:21 PM
Around here,in Missouri,the drill bit alone would cost $30.00.The hammer drill,you're looking at $150 to $250. Very seldom see anything that big at any garage sales. Nice adaptation !Why is it that someone elses junk is so much more interesting than mine??

[This message has been edited by George Hodge (edited 05-16-2003).]

charlie coghill
05-16-2003, 10:36 PM
I did something like that to an old elect drill several years ago. Every time I used it, it wanted to kill me. I got rid of it befor it did kill me. Boy when it hung up we both went in circles, you could not get off the switch fast enough.

05-16-2003, 10:47 PM

That is so cool. Well done. Could you modify the handle to take a piece of pipe to act as a brace, gving you more leverage for when the drill tries to take your arm off? This is what we used to do when we were drilling retaining walls. It did take tow of us and if you planned things right you could usually jamm the bar against something like a tree, brick, employee.... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//wink.gif


Dave Opincarne
05-17-2003, 12:39 AM
John, excelent job (distracting yourself http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif) very nice! But I do feel compeled to chime in with the others urging caution if it grabs. Couple of years ago a guy out here was killed when the Hole Hawg he was using to drill large holes in the joists under his house grabed. He was working alone and it swung around several times hitting him in the head. Guy at work lost a finger when his impact wrench twisted and caught his hand next to a rail.

Again, excelent work, just be careful.


John Stevenson
05-17-2003, 05:20 AM
Thanks guys for the safety aspect but as I posted in an earlier post it's not for use with the drill in the pic.
That drill was just for getting the taper sorted out, - usual no drawings, - turn, weld, mill where it touches http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

I went to No3 morse to take advantage of a couple of nice chucks I have kicking around unused and also I have a large hole saw that's also on MT3.

I also own a MT3 based mag based drill, not the rotobroach version, so big stuff up to 1 1/4" is fine on this.

Main reason for the conversion is
[1] I don't own a mechanical low speed drill for up to 3/4"
[2] This thing was broke and going nowhere anyway.

I know from prevous use with the old Wolf I had that if you get a good stance and you are determined and confident enough you can hold a 3/4" drill in a stall position, enoyght to release the trigger.
In my case I have no hold buttons fitted. I have been caught too many times when they do snatch and your inner thumb catches the button and that's the trigger locked.

Paul Gauthier
05-17-2003, 06:56 AM
Very clever. truly worthy of an HSM.

Paul G.

05-17-2003, 12:51 PM
ANY drill can be dangerous, not just a converted large one.. I saw a guy tightening up a chuck with a chuck key. AS he was bearing down on it he hit the trigger, the chuck key came around and tore his thumb right out bringing strings of muscle and meat a foot long. They put it back on but it didn't work right, he still gets a check.
I got a aluminum milwaukee 1/2" drill of WW2 vintage that I bought at 18. I had a auger bit in it drilling a hole in Granny's floor joist. Next thing I knew I was a foot off the ground going around and around hanging onto the drill. I weighed 275lbs and not a lil guy either (still not, just larger around the middle).
I have had a new respect for the drill ever since.

05-17-2003, 05:14 PM
In DaNang VietNAm, was putting antenna field up. Whip antenna had to go on top of a fifty or so foot tower, needed holes. I said I would show how if some one would do rest of the holes. St Peter (real name) volunteered. Told ST Peter to remove locking button- I am left handed- before we wnet up. He did not "get around to it". So we wnet up. He held cord to unplug. I am standing on top of a 12" triangle, 1/2 inch 500 RPM drill motor. and, sure nuff it caught in hole. I stalled it, Pete pulled plugs. Begged me to let him go remove the pins. I did two more hole (full job). Never saw Pete maove so fast as he did gettin that pin out before scaling the next tower. IMHO those pins should be out lawed, or at least a "crow bar circuit" added to shutthem off.

05-17-2003, 11:24 PM
I attach the chuck keys to my drills right at the plug so I have to unplug it before I can use the key.

Takes more time but is much safer IMHO.

Of course if its plugged into an extension cord it can be used without unplugging, but being at the plug, it reminds me to pull it out.

05-17-2003, 11:26 PM
BTW John, Doesn't that hammer drill have a clutch on the rotation gear?

Any rotary hammer I have ever used or repaired had one to protect the gearing and operator if the bit bound.

05-18-2003, 04:34 PM
Beauty. I will have to remeber that the next time I see a bagged "Red Head" drill (Actual name brand of the original hammer drill).

I remember the 1 1/16" hole I hade to make with an old Sears hole-hawg. I put a 10' black pipe on it for a reaction handle as I had to drill a 1" block of steel welded on a gun safe. Bastard caught on me - it lost the fight, but I am not a skinny runt like Ibewgypsie! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif