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spkrman15
01-24-2008, 08:46 AM
Any suggestions on what kind of puller works the best for removing bearings when you have to pull them from the inner race? I have to remove 2 6206-2rs1 bearings from a housing. I have about 16 inches on one side and 8 inches on the other.

I find my "hooks" don't hold up when i have tried to make pullers. Any suggestions would be helpfull.

Rob :)

jimmstruk
01-24-2008, 09:16 AM
Hi, any way you could post a picture or drawing of your set up? There are many types of pullers available, each one better for some jobs than others. JIM

Tim Clarke
01-24-2008, 09:24 AM
Make up a expanding collett. I've used a commercial one, on a slide hammer to pull clutch pilot bearings for years.

TC

DickDastardly40
01-24-2008, 09:30 AM
I find my "hooks" don't hold up when i have tried to make pullers. Any suggestions would be helpfull.

Rob :)

Make a strongback arrangement to the size to match the diameter of the inner race plus any extra you can fit from a piece of angle drilled through the middle that will accept a length of allthread bar and a pair of lock nuts.

For the puller use a plate across the hole also drilled to take the allthread.

Assemble with the strongback hard against the inner race, plate over the hole and allthread pulled up to remove the slack, screw a nut and washer down the allthead over the the plate and wind out with a spanner.

Clear as Mud?

Al

Boucher
01-24-2008, 09:52 AM
The make or buy decision is one with many considerations. For most bearing pullers I have opted to buy them. For really tough situations you can't duplicate the store bought metalurgy. Even for those one time applications it is surprizing how they turn up again. Over time you have a significant investment in them. DON'T LOAN YOUR TOOLS! especially bearing pullers.

spkrman15
01-24-2008, 10:00 AM
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u172/Spkrman15/scan0003.jpg

I have a limited amount of space. I don't thinki can fit a slide hammer in the room i have. This a basically built like a table saw.

Al
do you have a drawing of a strongback?

TC,
I have been trying to think up an expandable collet but nothing springs to mind. Do you have one? Or an idea i could copy?

Boucher,
Hehe yeah good advice about lending. I am leaning towards buying one however a 6206 has a 30mm opening. Kind of small for the commercial ones i have seen. I could buy a pilot bearing remover, i do not know how strong they are and they only expand to 1.5"

Rob :)

jimmstruk
01-24-2008, 10:11 AM
If shaft is out of housing,,the bearings could be knocked out with long punch and hammer. If shaft can not be removed easily it will need to be pressed out then the bearings removed from shaft or housing. JIM

DickDastardly40
01-24-2008, 10:28 AM
Just a sketch of the sort of thing I've used, homebrew your own to best fit. There is no need to angle the sides unless you can't get to the back side and have to insert it and turn it through the bore. I try to leave as much meat on the angle iron to prevent bending but you can use a box section or even flat plate and it may work.

The bigger thread the better, doesn't need to be althread a big bolt will do it as long as the end through the strongback can't turn.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa317/DDastardly/Picture001-4.jpg

Al

Sorry for crap sketch but I'm s'posed to be working.

lazlo
01-24-2008, 12:16 PM
One thing you have to be careful about pulling bearings: if you're trying to save the bearing, you need to support the race on the "holding" diameter (I don't know a better term).

So if the bearing is press-fit on a shaft, you want to pull it by the inner race, and not the outer race. If the bearing is press-fit in a hollow tube you want to pull it by the outer race.

If there's both a shaft and a hollow tube, one of the two will be the holding fit: either the shaft is an interference fit and the OD is a sliding fit, or vice versa. Pull the bearing by the race that's nearest the interference fit, or you'll warp the other race.

Same applies to installing the bearings: support it by either the outer, or inner race, depending on which has the interference fit.

tattoomike68
01-24-2008, 03:41 PM
Any suggestions on what kind of puller works the best for removing bearings when you have to pull them from the inner race? I have to remove 2 6206-2rs1 bearings from a housing. I have about 16 inches on one side and 8 inches on the other.

I find my "hooks" don't hold up when i have tried to make pullers. Any suggestions would be helpfull.

Rob :)

yes the trick is just like the drawing DickDastardly40 made. I use a heavy washer with 2 sides sheared off so it can go through the holes and use some all thread and nuts and make a quicky puller.

Its cheap, safe and simple.

Spin Doctor
01-24-2008, 05:01 PM
Make up a expanding collett. I've used a commercial one, on a slide hammer to pull clutch pilot bearings for years.

TC

Ditto. Just don't expect the bearing to be worth a damn afterwards. You will of been driving the outer race out of the bore through the balls. They really aren't meant to stand up to that sort of abuse. Likewhise when using some sort of tool to drive a bearing onto a shft or into a bore always drive it with the race that is in contact with the mating part. If it is in to both at once drive both races at the same time so the force is not transfered though the balls. If you must use steel use mild steel only. It may mushroom but it will not flake. Brass is a big no no. While it is too soft to damage the races it can flake and leave those flakes in the rotating element of the bearing (balls and cage). Better yet if you have some plastic around that you can make a driver out of to fit both the inner and out races that works best. I used to use a commercial set from SKF making one ain't rocket science. An especially good tip if you are thinking about replaceing spindle bearings in a lathe or mill.

x39
01-24-2008, 05:54 PM
If you wind up destroying the bearing and wind up with just the outer race stuck in the hole, a few beads of weld run on the ID of the race will cause it to fall right out.

pcarpenter
01-24-2008, 05:54 PM
Depending on just how tight the "press fit" is, I have been able to warm the housing around the race in a case where the housing is something of managable size, and then get the bearing to either fall out or to fall out by rapping the housing on a block of wood.

This method doesn't risk galling the bore in which the new bearing will need to go and potentially thereby leaving that bore either too loose or too tight. You need to work fairly quickly though, popping the old bearing out before the heat transfers to the outer bearing race and swelling it. It also works very well if the bore in which the bearing sits is some material that offers higher temperature growth than the bearing race....like say aluminum end housings for motors.

Paul

wierdscience
01-24-2008, 07:45 PM
If I am reading you right you need to pull the shaft and the bearings out?

Easiest way would be to machine up a cup to slip over the arbor threads and blade washer and then make up a slotted plate to bear cup up on the housing and use the arbor threads to pull the shaft and the bearing out.Once you ave the one side,then it's just a matter of slipping a bar through and driving the other side out.

spkrman15
01-24-2008, 09:32 PM
DARIN!!!

What a great idea! The big kicker is i don't have room to punch the bearings out. I only have about 8" on one side and 14-16" on the other. Not much room for banging. Of course the saw blade in on the side with 8" clearence.

My other option was using a hydraulic ram style cylinder with an adapter.

I love your idea thought Darin.

Rob :)

wierdscience
01-24-2008, 10:00 PM
DARIN!!!

What a great idea! The big kicker is i don't have room to punch the bearings out. I only have about 8" on one side and 14-16" on the other. Not much room for banging. Of course the saw blade in on the side with 8" clearence.

My other option was using a hydraulic ram style cylinder with an adapter.

I love your idea thought Darin.

Rob :)

Awh shucks,wern't nothin,even a blind hog finds an acorn once in awhile;)

radish1us
01-24-2008, 10:44 PM
Have you tried pushing on the shaft first, if there is collar's on each end of the shaft, then by pushing the shaft, one bearing will come out, then just use a rod up inside and against the other bearing to knock it out.
If the shaft has already been removed, then just get a bar up inside to knock out a bearing, then change ends and knock out the other bearing.
If the problem is the same as what you have drawn, then why do you even need to contemplate buying a bearing puller?
It sure aint rocket science.

oldtiffie
01-24-2008, 11:42 PM
As said previously the bearing is or should be regarded as unfit to be replaced in the job. Its (s)crap.

Break out the cage/retainer that holds the balls in and correctly spaced between the inner and outer races.

Remove the balls and then the inner race.

Make up a back-hammer with a stiff adaptor/spigot that will fit in the outer race.

MIG weld the spigot to the outer race - just a few "hit and miss" or "stitch" welds will do.

It's odds-on/very likely that the outer race will come out easily either before using the back-hammer or when using the back-hammer.

Another alternative is to put in several MIG runs on the inside of the outer race. That may cause the race/ring to shrink enough to pull out easily. Also, sometimes when using this method the race/ring becomes so brittle that it can be broken out with a hammer and cold chisel (suggest "diamond-pointed").

spkrman15
01-25-2008, 06:12 AM
Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the great ideas. I will let you all know how it turns out. Unfortunately i am not allowed to take pictures. Company policy. Maybe the plant manager will be at lunch when i do it!!! hehe

Thanks again
Rob :)