View Full Version : Table for Sq Column Mill

02-12-2008, 09:12 PM
I am piecing together my mill table and had a stability question. I have an RF45 clone and got a piece of 1/4 steel plate to mount it on.

I am pretty much copying Bob Warfields design here >>>


My mills has a base length of 24" and a width of 18". The plate I bought to mount it on is 24" X 30". So, does it matter which way I mount it ? I was thinking it might be better to have some extra length on the sides. So the front to back would match the base at 24" and I would have a 6" overhang on each side. I was thinking this might be better if I have to crank the table all the way left or right.

Any comments or suggestions welcome.


02-12-2008, 10:40 PM
Kev, I can give arguments to go either way. My power feed travel is limited because I adapted a Bridgie feed that hangs down and will hit the table. If you plan to use that style feed, make the sides as close to the base as possible.

OTOH, I store all kinds of goodies on that side area. On the left are various blocks--1-2-3, 2-4-6, angle, and so on. On the right is my GM Precision Adjustment tool (a small hammer for tapping in while tramming), and the wrenches I use constantly.

Consider also whether you want a leveling screw arrangement or plan to shim the legs level as I did.



02-12-2008, 11:02 PM
Hey Bob thanks for chiming in. What was the diameter of your table ?
I noticed you made it pretty low is that for the CNC version ?

I am going to cut my 4x4 to 35" and then weld to the bottom of the plate.

I am still learning on my stick welder , so it might be a while.

Anything you would change in your design ?


02-13-2008, 10:53 AM
1. However much you extend the table top past the mill base is the amount that you will reduce your x travel before the power feed box hits. Look at Bob's http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCWorkshop.htm.

2. If you store things that need a 1/4" thick shelf to hold them up, by all means provide it for them. Otherwise save that 12" X 24" chunk to weld other goodies out of.

3. Whatever tools, gagets, or other junk you store on those little extensions are apt to vibrate off without sideboards to keep them on.

4. When ever you reach for one of those handy items, keep in mind that they will be laying in a bed of chips similar to razor blades for lepricons.

02-13-2008, 11:15 AM
Kevin, the table top is 30" square.

The table is low because my ceiling is low. I measured it all out to fit with max Z-travels. Apparently the measurements were correct because I do get max Z-travels:


It turns out to be a comfortable height for tooling up, and then I sit on a stool to turn the handles.

What would I change?

Not sure I'd change anything. I sometimes wonder what I would need to do with flood coolant. That's something to think about I guess.

Another thing I think about sometimes is adding a jib or something similar to the table. I've always liked this swingarm (one of the members here did it, I think) for placing the vise on the table:


You could imagine integrating a slightly larger arm on one of the rear corners of the table, probably take the left or right rear leg up through the table and put a jib crane on it. Provide shelving for heavy tooling and now you can move vises, rotabs, and whatever real easily. Even workpieces. I can certainly lift my 8" rotab with a 6" 4-jaw chuck on it, but it isn't getting any lighter as I get older!

GKMan, this table just doesn't vibrate. It's too massive I think. I've fired up some pretty gnarly cuts and the mill was singing but nothing vibrated off the table, including some items that are not very heavy. In fact, the table routinely seems to accrete lots of stuff as it has in the picture and very little ever vibrates off.

Another thing I did is to set the mill on a thin piece of shelving rubber. You can see it clearly in the picture above. That may also contribute to sound dampening qualities.