View Full Version : Downfeed cylinder installed!

02-25-2008, 03:44 PM
Got it working this morning. Still don't have all the air out of the system but it works GREAT! About 1000% better than the original.
This is a 1.3" bore double acting air cylinder filled with Canuck tire's finest hydraulic oil.
Makes this saw look like it was made in the 60's now :D
Control panel. Still no electrical upgrades and I did it on the weekend so was limited to what I could get for fittings. Was going to run the pipes through the panel to the back so they where hidden but couldn't round up all the fittings I needed. The square valve is the speed control...the other is the holding valve.
I'll be putting a 5/8 pitch blade on it in a bit to get the ol' girl sawing quicker now that we have some control.

02-25-2008, 03:51 PM
When all the air bleeds out of the rod side of the cylinder, the whole thing will lock up due to the rod volume differential. A double rod cylinder or a separate reservoir eliminates this. I tee'd a small Bimba in the rod side to act as an accumulator. Some lift cylinders have a check valve in the piston head to allow lifting while the control valve is closed, but you could put one in series with the shut off valve and the needle valve. It would do the same thing.


02-25-2008, 04:06 PM
Doozer...this uses an air speed control. You can dial in the drop speed with it but the oil flows full tilt back the other way automatically. The hold valve is so you don't have to monkey with the drop speed settings.

02-26-2008, 12:19 AM
A very worthwhile upgrade! BTW...here's the old downfeed cylinder. No adjustment...you got what it gave you! Compare the two...lol!
Then of course I had to have a lil' drag race...
The Wells 9X16 with a new Lennox 5/8 pitch blade. Fairly light pressure as the blade is brand new.
Cut through the 2" solid... 1 minute 47 seconds.
The ol' Busy Bee 4X6 Swivel Head with a near new 6/10 pitch blade...
(yawn)... sawed through the 2" solid in 4 minutes 51 seconds.
The Wells is a no brainer for my busy shop now. I gotta hand it to the lil' 4X6 though. I've worked the crap out of it and never had a problem. I still really like the swivel head feature.
The Wells will just do 90* stuff for the most part and we'll use the 4X6 for angles and for thinwall stock.

02-26-2008, 08:36 AM
Good deal Russ,it will make you money.

I like ours more and more everytime I use it.Yesterday I cut 300 pieces of 1/2x1/2 hot rolled square in about 20 minutes.Stacked 9 20'ers in the saw and clamped one end together with a hose clamp.9 pcs cut every fall sure beats one at a time on a hot saw:cool:

2" round in 1'-45"?Come on man I can do that in 20":p:D

I can see it now,Russ showing off pics of his blown alky powered bandsaw:D

02-26-2008, 08:54 AM
LOL! Darin...do you guys used vari-pitch blades? I just put that 5-8 on last night but I'm wondering about a 4-6 now.
Feel sorta dumb about that now...I've spent hours on the big Hyd-Mechs where I used to work but never paid mind to the blades we used. If you had any problems you'd yell for the tool guy to fix it and move on to something else til it was fixed.
I'm thinking we did not have vari-pitch blades on those saws but could be wrong.
Also... I don't want to push this too hard til I get coolant set up on it.
I didn't bother hooking the coolant back up on my 4X6 after the move...been using it a lot. Tha lack of coolant has REALLY cut down on blade life.

02-26-2008, 01:21 PM
The Wells will just do 90* stuff for the most part and we'll use the 4X6 for angles and for thinwall stock.

I think it's the thinwall stuff that needs the dampener. Big stuff regulates itself except for the last few thousanths.

Doozer's comment makes sense to me. An ounce of oil gets squished out of the side without the rod, tries to go into the side with the rod and there is not enough room for it. I wouldn't have thought of that. Good to know.

02-26-2008, 10:01 PM
Russ,we use 8-10 VP blades,reason we go so fine is I never know what we will be cutting next.Could be 1/4x1 flatbar or 3" round.I do keep a 4-6 incase I need to cut something obnoxious big.I got a flip down bar at the back of the roller bed to cock wide flat bar up in the back so the blade has less contact width in the cut.

Coolant we have and plenty of it,I just added a check valve just past the pump yesterday to eliminate much of the delay between the saw coming on and the coolant flowing.Used to take about 10 seconds for it to prime,now it's down to about 3,much better.