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View Full Version : I finally got one....woo hoo



Mattio
04-26-2008, 08:36 PM
Hey folks
Well, I finally got the SB 9 that I posted about yesterday:D
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll290/mattiosteam/Lathe%202/
I did happen to get it for $300, and a box of mystery parts (think the guy wanted to unload some junk on me).
After I paid and it was all loaded up ( I live about 40 minutes away), I just grabbed the bed to make sure it was secure. Snap!!.....the belt tensioner bracket broke.....@%$#^:eek: . It broke about an inch from the hole behind the chuck:mad: . Any ideas on fixing this??? as it is cast and welding it will be tricky. Also the leather belt is kind of shoddy. Where is the best place to get a new belt? (the V belt is fine).
I was unloading it into my garage and my wife came out. She looked at it, and gave me a slight eyebrow raise, and after a moment.."what on earth are you going do with that?". Well hun...I'm gonna turn stuff..... Her complete lack of facial expression with the exception of the still raised eyebrows said it all.....she was a excited as me as getting home this little monster....lol
I am going to pull it all apart and give it new paint and a good cleaning. I am leaning to a handsome black finish.
I will post progress pix and let you all know how things are coming.
Answers to the tensioner and leather belt question would be appreciated.
PS...I told my wife that i would be happy to make here a steam engine once I got on to the machining......again she was estatic,:p with raised eybrows and all...

Fasttrack
04-26-2008, 08:50 PM
Nice! Box of mystery parts is always alot of fun, imo.

Can you post some pics of the broken bracket? I'm not a "south bend guy" so I can't picture exactly what/where the break is. Maybe you can grind the area flush, drill and tap? Or maybe all it needs is some brazing. Or maybe it needs a full fledged cast-iron weld. Hard to give any useful suggestions from my vantage point ;)

lane
04-26-2008, 09:53 PM
You can get a new to you bracket of E-Bay. for sure. Their is every thing for South Bend. and more. You can also grind it out and braze it up . Find your self a good welder .

JCHannum
04-26-2008, 09:57 PM
Congrats, it looks like a good buy. The tensioner bracket is frequently broken, and often found with a braze repair.

deltaenterprizes
04-26-2008, 10:45 PM
Looks similar to the first South Bend I bought,but yours has more of the parts that are supposed to be there.I had to go to school to learn to make the parts and have acess to the tools to make them.Tuition was $1800,but I made that back the first month working as a machinist after I got out of school,then I learned how much I didn't know!

Nice machine,great price! Be careful ,this stuff is addicting.

speedy
04-27-2008, 01:34 AM
I just grabbed the bed to make sure it was secure. Snap!!.....the belt tensioner bracket broke.....@%$#^:eek: . It broke about an inch from the hole behind the chuck:mad: . Any ideas on fixing this??? as it is cast and welding it will be tricky. Also the leather belt is kind of shoddy. Where is the best place to get a new belt? (the V belt is fine).

How about modifying a s/s or steal eye/eye pipe turnbuckle to suit? Not OE but hardly likely to break anytime in the future.

S_J_H
04-27-2008, 10:26 AM
A 9" model A for 300$ is a great great deal. A couple of tips ,

First thing I would do is pull apart the headstock and have a look at the spindle bearings and the spindle. To strip the paint and grime, get your self a carton of TSP. Find a large pan and then make a strong solution of TSP and water and BOIL it.It works amazingly well.
Add the parts to the boiling TSP for about 30 minutes and then rinse clean. This will remove 99% of all the old grime and paint. You can then paint right away without priming. Use a brush on paint not a rattle can. One of the best paints is Benjamin Moore's m22 industrial urethane enamel. Color is your choice but if you want a close color to original SB tint the formula for 1 gallon of m22 in a 3 base is-
OY 1 X 28.0000, BK 3 X12.0000,
MA 0 X 6.0000.
This is a pic of what the color looks like on my SB9A-
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n48/S_J_H/SOUTHBEND%209/restoredSouthBendlathe001.jpg

Forget the leather belt and since you have a bench mounted motor you can run a non spliced 7 rib serpentine belt. Just slip it on before you reassemble the spindle. It will not slip and runs very smooth.
Steve

RobbieKnobbie
04-27-2008, 10:57 AM
That color looks pretty close to HiLite Grey from MAB.

MAB's industrial paint is called Rust-O-Lastic (sp?) and I've had pretty good experience with it, I'm sure Ben Moore's is just as good. I don't think I have a BM dealer nearby, so it becomes a question of what's convenient.

S_J_H
04-27-2008, 11:03 AM
The pic above is not real color accurate. I never seem to be able to get my pics with the "true" color. This pic of my headstock shows the true color a little better. It has a slight hint of green in the color that does not show up well in the pics. But it looks very authentic in person.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n48/S_J_H/southbendheadstock014.jpg

Steve

laddy
04-27-2008, 11:21 AM
WoW! You did GREAT!!!!

quadrod
04-27-2008, 01:26 PM
please post a pic of the broken part.

Alistair Hosie
04-27-2008, 04:34 PM
I don't quite understand how you could use a V belt on a flat wheel .However with lathes I always reccomend a V belt which can be taken apart and fitted without dissasembling the headstock.You know the V belts made up of lots of pieces which lock together.Alistair

johnc
04-27-2008, 05:17 PM
Like SJH says, get a serpentine belt. Just take the old leather one down to a auto parts store and get the guys to match one up as close as you can. Some like to run them grooves toward the pulley and others don't. I ran mine both ways and can't say I noticed a huge difference. The only drag is that you have to dissassemble the spindle to install it.

Mattio
04-27-2008, 10:40 PM
Great advice.
you mean a standard automotive style serpentine?? or an industrial grade style?

Mattio
04-27-2008, 10:51 PM
ooop......I guess I should have read both pages of replies. I will head to the auto store once I get it rebuilt/painted.
Other than a good cleaning...is there any issues or problems I should be looking for?
I have noticed in my playing, there seems to be a bit of play in the crossside handles. It moves about 1/2 inch before it seems to grab the threads to move the slide in either direction. Would this be the thread screw or the female threaded part?
thanks

Mattio
04-27-2008, 11:31 PM
ooop......I guess I should have read both pages of replies. I will head to the auto store once I get it rebuilt/painted.
Other than a good cleaning...is there any issues or problems I should be looking for?
I have noticed in my playing, there seems to be a bit of play in the crossside handles. It moves about 1/2 inch before it seems to grab the threads to move the slide in either direction. Would this be the thread screw or the female threaded part?
thanks

S_J_H
04-28-2008, 08:51 AM
It moves about 1/2 inch before it seems to grab the threads to move the slide in either direction. Would this be the thread screw or the female threaded part?
thanks
It's probably a worn cross slide screw and nut. The nut will be the most worn but the lead screw will probably be worn as well. This is pretty common. Several have made new screws and nuts but it is not a beginners project.
You'll just have to tear into the machine to see what sort of condition everything is in.
The PM site has a south bend section. It's a good source for rebuilding a SB9A.Check it out if you have not already done so.
Steve