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View Full Version : Question and drawing--Can I machine this as described



brian Rupnow
05-11-2008, 08:36 PM
I want to make some clamps as per the attached drawing, to update my old heavy belt sander. I do not have a slitting saw, so I wonder can I make the clamp from 2 peices of 1.25" x 1" flat bar, drill, tap, and counterbore them as shown, bolt them together, then clamp them in a 4 jaw chuck on my lathe, and drill the 1" diameter hole. Then take them apart and sand some material off the marked faces so that they will clamp a 1" diameter round bar?
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/sandingbeltclampassembly.jpg

RobbieKnobbie
05-11-2008, 08:41 PM
or you could put some shim stock between the two blocks when you clamp them.

jimmstruk
05-11-2008, 08:41 PM
Your plan looks good, should work just fine. JIM

wierdscience
05-11-2008, 08:42 PM
Yep,shims.

Rustybolt
05-11-2008, 08:42 PM
Yes you can. You an also make them out of one piece and then split them.

oldtiffie
05-11-2008, 08:45 PM
Hi Brian.

In answer to your question - sure can.

If the overall height is not important and you have a piece of say 0.06" steel (or any metal), put it between the two halves, clamp together and drill hole as required (bore if necessary), unbolt, remove strip/spacer and there you have your parts with space with no further effort.

That process has been used forever for clamping things like bearings in engines and lathe head-stocks etc.

rantbot
05-11-2008, 10:30 PM
or you could put some shim stock between the two blocks when you clamp them.
A popular option, since if you don't have any shim stock lying around, you now have an excuse to free up a beer can.

Oldbrock
05-12-2008, 01:33 AM
Deposit the beer in a suitable container first. I'm sure you can think one close at mouth:D

Frank Ford
05-12-2008, 02:41 AM
No slitting saw? How about a hand powered hacksaw? I've done lots of things like this by simply slicing it apart with a standard hand hacksaw. Who's going to judge you by the cut? Now, if it is for a paying customer, that's a different situation. If it's for yourself, just go for it.

IOWOLF
05-12-2008, 07:16 AM
Make it in 2 pieces,Bolt together, make a .050 washer to put between them, bore large hole then.

I just done several sets, they clamp buterfly impacts in them, To remove theater seats no less.

brian Rupnow
05-12-2008, 09:40 AM
Thanks for all the responses fellows. I have not yet used my 4 jaw chuck, so this will be something new for me. I know the theory, but have not done the practical end of it yet.

Fasttrack
05-12-2008, 10:31 AM
Thanks for all the responses fellows. I have not yet used my 4 jaw chuck, so this will be something new for me. I know the theory, but have not done the practical end of it yet.


:) The first time I used a 4-jaw it probably took me 15-20 minutes to get it running true. Don't expect to get it set up your first time in five minutes.

Not much to it, just tricky to get it dead nuts. But then, I was worried about a half a thou on that piece, this one can probably be plus or minus a few thou. Half a thousandth and you have to start worrying about how hard you clamp down on the piece!

brian Rupnow
05-12-2008, 11:02 AM
:) The first time I used a 4-jaw it probably took me 15-20 minutes to get it running true. Don't expect to get it set up your first time in five minutes.

Not much to it, just tricky to get it dead nuts. But then, I was worried about a half a thou on that piece, this one can probably be plus or minus a few thou. Half a thousandth and you have to start worrying about how hard you clamp down on the piece!

Like I said---I know the theory, and I have a dial indicator with a magnetic base, so SHOULD be able to figure it out.---Of course, setting up a 4 jaw chuck is a bit like making love or riding a bicycle---No ammount of theory will suitably prepare you for the real thing!!!

ScottM
05-12-2008, 11:22 AM
Brian,

I'm surprised Frank did not post this.

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Machining/Tooling/WigglyCenter.jpg/wigglycenter.html#Hardening

- Scott

kf2qd
05-12-2008, 11:28 AM
Looks like 2 pieces of 1.25 thick stock bolted together and then bored. The the 2 pieces are put in the mill and .03 flycut off to make the gap. Don't make it so difficult.

brian Rupnow
05-12-2008, 12:08 PM
Looks like 2 pieces of 1.25 thick stock bolted together and then bored. The the 2 pieces are put in the mill and .03 flycut off to make the gap. Don't make it so difficult.

Yeah, Its real difficult. I don't have a mill!!!!

Stepside
05-12-2008, 02:28 PM
A couple of hints. Center a rectangular part in the four-jaw by pretending it is two two-jaw chucks. Get on direction where you want it and then do the other two jaws. For your project I would use a shim between the two parts. If the shim sticks out a bit you have a easy point to find with the first set of jaws. As to not having a mill: After boring the hole take the block apart and face off one set of legs using the four-jaw. It does not have to be centered exactly just make sure it is seated square in the chuck.

brian Rupnow
05-12-2008, 07:17 PM
A couple of hints. Center a rectangular part in the four-jaw by pretending it is two two-jaw chucks. Get on direction where you want it and then do the other two jaws. For your project I would use a shim between the two parts. If the shim sticks out a bit you have a easy point to find with the first set of jaws. As to not having a mill: After boring the hole take the block apart and face off one set of legs using the four-jaw. It does not have to be centered exactly just make sure it is seated square in the chuck.
Very good, Stepside. I hadn't thought of doing that. Thanks for the tip.---Brian

oldtiffie
05-12-2008, 08:21 PM
Like I said---I know the theory, and I have a dial indicator with a magnetic base, so SHOULD be able to figure it out.---Of course, setting up a 4 jaw chuck is a bit like making love or riding a bicycle---No ammount of theory will suitably prepare you for the real thing!!!

Brian.

I read this twice.

I was relieved that you only envisaged making love OR (and not (AND)) riding a bicycle.

It would have been an interesting evolution.

I've made it worse by combining (relating?) them with Boolean algebra - but no logic.

The "if and only if" option is mind-boggling.

rantbot
05-12-2008, 09:31 PM
I was relieved that you only envisaged making love OR (and not (AND)) riding a bicycle.
It's easy enough.

It does, however, make it hard to get insurance.

oldtiffie
05-12-2008, 10:14 PM
It's easy enough.

It does, however, make it hard to get insurance.

Wow, I am totally in awe with your first paragraph rb.

Pics please.

I was taught to get on a bike by grabbing the handle with both hands, left foot on left peddle, kick/push start with right foot then when "got going" to throw my right leg over.

Your method suggests that even the redoubtable "Cirque du Soleil" could not "top" your "act". I am trying to imagine it on the "high-wire"!!!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cirque_du_Soleil

I'd like the ticket concession in the event that you give a public performance!!

Paul Alciatore
05-13-2008, 02:56 AM
No slitting saw? How about a hand powered hacksaw? I've done lots of things like this by simply slicing it apart with a standard hand hacksaw. Who's going to judge you by the cut? Now, if it is for a paying customer, that's a different situation. If it's for yourself, just go for it.

Yea, I have done a lot of slits with a band saw or just a hack saw. They function just fine and no one ever sees the inside of a slot. In the case of this part, you could file or sand the sawn edges if you want a better finish.

brian Rupnow
05-13-2008, 10:16 AM
Oldtiffie---heck, making love on a bicycle is nothing!!! In order to get your Canadian citizenship, you have to be able to make love while standing up in a canoe, while navigating a class 2 rapids. (they do pick a lot of turbans out of the river down at the next shallow area)!!!

brian Rupnow
05-14-2008, 08:50 PM
Well fellows (and Gurl)---Thanks to your advice my project is moving along nicely. As you can see, I decided to go with hex head bolts instead of socket head capscrews. The largest drill I had was 3/4", however the center hole had to be 1". The first two sets of blocks that I made, I drilled to 3/4" in the lathe, then without changing my set-up, I bored them out to 1" diameter. This took forever, so today I went up to the tool store and bought a 1" diameter drill to do the last 2 sets. I had drilled the bolt holes and bolted the individual sets of blocks together for the drilling and boring operation (you can see my "match marks" on the set nearest to the camera). After the boring operation, I disassembled the blocks and set them up in the 4 jaw chuck to remove .030' off the mating faces. I am enjoying the lathe, and every project that I do lets me learn (or re-learn) some new operation.
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/SANDERPROJECT001.jpg