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View Full Version : new drawbar for my 8250 clausing mill



rmuell01
08-03-2008, 09:34 AM
Now that I've learned how to remove my ER collet holder (small brass hammer, very quick strikes), I've got to make a new drawbar to fix the one I bent (large brass hammer, very heavy strokes).

It's 3/8X16. not hard to make, and I have, but it was out of 1018 steel. I didn't case harden it.

the question, what should these be made from? should they be case hardened?

Rob

tattoomike68
08-03-2008, 09:56 AM
The cheapo draw bars you buy for $15 are not hard at all so its easy to pull the threads. We found welding a grade 8 bolt on the end will make a long lasting draw bar.

So the threads are the only part you would like to case harden, but you can get away with not doing anything.

SGW
08-03-2008, 03:42 PM
If you want something a little more durable, something like 1144 might be a good choice.

You might see if you can find a setup stud that's long enough to adapt. I've seen 1144 and 4140 listed in various catalogs as the material those are made of.

lazlo
08-03-2008, 03:45 PM
I've got a Dorian R8 drawbar, and it's made from hardened 4140. The hex drive piece and the R8 threaded section are bomb-proof.

CLARKMAG
08-05-2008, 10:12 AM
I just buy cheap old threaded rod for draw bars and put a couple nuts on top.

platypus2020
08-05-2008, 03:33 PM
The used Burke I had, came with a drawbar made out of a piece of B-7 hardened all thread with a coupling nut pinned to the end of it, I used it that way for 5-6 yrs, then sold the mill with the same drawbar, never had a problem with it.

Jack