thread Repair

[spkrman15]

My dad has a Ford 5000 tractor built in the 1970's. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-trac...ford-5000.html
Well yesterday the top of the 3 point hitch pulled out of the draft control. From what he told me on the phone it is threaded shaft having a diameter of 1" (Guess) with fine threads. I am thinking probably 14 tpi.

Is there a compound that you recomend to use in order to repair the threads? I know locktite sells a kit for repairing threads but i hve never used it. It consists of a releasing agent and a metal compound to bond with the old threads.

Thanks Rob

[GKman]

Tractor part steel 80,000 psi. Epoxy repair product 3,000 psi.


New parts.

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=FORD&&md=5000&cat=Hydraulic%20System&r=mcats

[jimmstruk]

My thoughts are that at my shop I would use a metal repair(steel or stainless). If there is enough metal around the stripped threads to allow you to drill out the damaged area, tap an oversize hole and install a new set of threads. I use helicoil but there are many other very good inserts on the market also. I am aware that there is liquid thread repair but I dont know how good they would be for a high stress area . JIM

[jimmstruk]

Rereading your original post, it is not clear to me if the problem is the internal or the external thread, but chances are there is damage to both. If the male threads are damaged, would need to weldup and recut. JIM

[spkrman15]

GKman, i had that conversation. I beleive he just wants something to keep it all together until he finishes his crops. I totally agree with you however.

Jim: I haven't seen the damage. Funny a Helicoil never came up in my mind!

Rob

[huntinguy]

are we talking

Are we talking about the adjustable links that connect to the drag arms? If so, I would think it better to just replace the part with a new one. If I were in a pinch and couldn't do that, I would weld a doubler nut on the end, thread it all together first and then weld it. If it is not that part I wouldn't do any of this.

Here is a link to a picture of the bummy end of a Ford 5000 (or so the add says) so we can all see it clearer. http://www.joetractor.com/images/Ford5000_08wm.jpg

Oh, Helicoil, I like that idea but it doesn't involve a hot torch

[Mike Burdick]

Rob,

If you're talking about the link from the lift to the 3-point...

I had that problem on an old Massey and this is what I did...

I just cut the threads off back far enough such that it would still have movement thru its adjustable range. Then threaded a new steel replacement and welded it back. The threads were standard and the material is forged steel so welding isn't a problem. The mended link has been holding up in hard use for over 22 years!

[CCWKen]

Sounds like he's talking about the adjustable top link. If that's the case, go to Tractor Supply and get a new one. They run in the $25 range. I just bought a premium model, painted blue, for $30.

Here... This one is $21.99

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_33789_______14345%7C14346%7C14347%7C14353%7C33789?listingPage=true&Special=false

[spkrman15]

Here is a picture of it.



I think i am winning the "conversation". Monday i will be dropping bye the local dealer to look into new parts. The big catch is that this tractor has a cab. It will most likely have to come off to remove this part...and that might not be an easy task.

Rob :0

[GKman]

I've found some machinery built the way it is for ease of manufacture and could be made/repaired in a different fashion and achieve the same result. In this case I think that you'd be working too close to a precision hydraulic cylinder but if both parts, internal and external threaded are worn out, weld the or cross pin two pieces of junk together into a workable part again.

[CCWKen]

Oh, ok. You shouldn't have to remove the cab to pull that out.

Here's a diagram. The parts are #50 and #55
#50 is called "Plunger, Draft Control"
#55 is called "Yoke, Control Plunger"

The part#s may depend on the year and whether the tractor has load monitoring. You can order these online through Messicks. Both pieces will be around $180.

[spkrman15]

Wow Ken ,thanks.

I just got an email from my dad (this morning) with a scanned in fax. Your post is 10 times clearer. The one question we were asking ourselves was what stops part #50 from rotating when you screw in part #55? Any ideas?

I will probably we attacking this repair early week after next week. He has about 15 more bales to load and then the tractor is comming back home. Presently it is 15 miles away from the house and farm.

Rob

[CCWKen]

There should be a coupling (linkage) on #50 inside the case. It's used to activate draft control via a valve. I've never had one out but I think you can access the coupling through the top cover. Once disconnected, remove #56 and unscrew #53. The whole spring assembly should come out then you can separate #50 & 55 on the bench. Sorry I can't help more than that. I'm saving my beer money to buy a 3910 $ervice Manual myself.