plasma cutter nozzles..anyone made their own

[aboard_epsilon]

These things were £15 UK about 5 years ago ...and they don't last long ...probably over £20 each now ..I bought a few last time ..now I'm getting short .

the hole becomes enlarged in the middle

has anyone made their own ...

they are made out of chromed copper by the looks of things

is copper essential or can another material be used .

also the electrodes seem to bugger up at the same time...more spend ...

all the best.markj

[PTSideshow]

Don't know if this will help but they seem to have dealers in a lot of countries. The UK is listed in case the link doesn't work it is Thermacut they seem to have consumables for a lot of brands.http://www.thermacut.com
:D

[macona]

Tolerances are extremely important in plasma consumables. Plus the tips have halfnium in them for arc stabilization.

If you have a full cnc lathe with sub spindle go for it. Otherwise just buy the things. Or get a new torch that used cheaper consumables. Like the Thermal Dynamics 1Torch.

[wierdscience]

I made a button out of stainless to accurately fit the inside of the tip.I take my worn ones(I have about 25 ) and TIG the hole shut with copper wire for filler.Pop them in the lathe to trim the length and re-drill the hole.

The button is reusable and the whole operation only takes about 45 minutes for the 20 odd tips.I keep a pack of new fresh tips for critical work and use the rebuilds for knocking around general purpose cutting.

I have a Thermal Dynamics SL-100 torch and the tips are cheaper,$5.50 ea. for up to 80amp.The Small Miller those tips are $8.50 each and only a 25 amp machine.

[aboard_epsilon]

Tolerances are extremely important in plasma consumables. Plus the tips have halfnium in them for arc stabilization.

If you have a full cnc lathe with sub spindle go for it. Otherwise just buy the things. Or get a new torch that used cheaper consumables. Like the Thermal Dynamics 1Torch.


hmmm....after a couple of feet cutting you can see the hole getting larger ........

perhaps it would be nice to make a new tip with replaceable insert disks, that could be knocked up on the lathe in a couple of Min's

BTW the torch on mine is non detachable ...so cant swap torches willy nilly

all the best.mark

[Ries]

The last price I heard on Hafnium was about $10 a gram- thats over 4 grand a pound.
Which might explain the price of plasma tips and electrodes.

[macona]

hmmm....after a couple of feet cutting you can see the hole getting larger ........

perhaps it would be nice to make a new tip with replaceable insert disks, that could be knocked up on the lathe in a couple of Min's

BTW the torch on mine is non detachable ...so cant swap torches willy nilly

all the best.mark

If its getting bigger that fast then something is wrong. Are you dragging the tip? Using a metal straight edge? Try running higher air pressure. Is there an air dryer on the line? How may amps you running?

The torch is detachable in the machine. Thats where you connect the new torch. They sell adapter kits to fit a variety of machine and if they dont have one its easy to make your own. But youre looking at about $400 US for the new torch.

[aboard_epsilon]

its always been a bit of a crap plasma cutter with massive duty cycle ..

yes I'm using metal strait edge ...why?

yes i am dragging the tip ..............there is no other way to keep it at equal distance from the work ....other torches have like a frame around them that keeps it a set distance .this does not ...and cant because you have to press the torch against the work to start ...it has a spring loaded nozzle that actuates the start up sequence..it really is a piece of **** .

all the best.markj

[Powerpooche]

Water in your air eats up tips real fast!

P.O.

[macona]

Oil is a killer as well.

The using a metal straightedge and dragging the tip are basically the same thing. During a cut the nozzle is electrically isolated from the rest of the machine. It is only there to guide and concentrate the plasma. If it comes into contact with the metal being cut or otherwise grounded a significant portion of the current that would be traveling from the electrode to the work is rerouted through the nozzle. This is called double arcing. This does two things. Causes more wear on the nozzle and also reduces your cut capacity.

I have seen nozzles with holes blown out the side from this.

Use a non metallic straight edge. If it is metallic insulate it with wood, plastic, whatever. Pretty much anything will work as long as it is non conductive.

Practice will allow you to freehand without dragging the tip. Or create a template for the curve you want.

[aboard_epsilon]

Ok. I'm listening .i still hate the thing though .

Tip requires pressing and clicking on the work ...before it fires up ...a so called safety feature that drives me nuts....even though it has high freq start ,

Kind of hard to hover so many mm's above work when you are moving the tip across the work ...(cutting thin plate) at about a yard every 1.5 seconds.

May see if i can get a different head for it that has guide built on to it....uses cheaper nozzles and no nutty safety gadgets.


On the look out then, for a strait edge, that is non conducting and heat proof.

all the best..markj

[macona]

There is surprisingly little heat there at the tip. I have even used plastic as a guide. It only lasts a few times usually though. The best stuff I have found is a fiberglass based material kind of like micarta. I cant think of what it is called. Red in color. Whats nice is the tip moves real smoothly. Like this stuff:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ELECTRICAL-GRADE-FIBERGLASS-5-PCS-3-32-INCH-317_W0QQitemZ230255687566QQihZ013QQcategoryZ55824Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Have you ever popped open the torch to see how it works. Do you hit the button on the handle and then push the tip down? Are you sure there is HF to start? They could be doing this as a sort of makeshift drawback start system.

For cutting sheet freehand I recommend holding the torch in whatever hand you are comfortable with and then cupping your other hand between you hand and the material to steady yourself.

If you do have to drag set your current below about 30 amps. This will minimize tip wear.

[carlquib]

What about the drag nozzles do they have any of these problems? I have one of the hypertherm models with the drag tip, which seems to be insulated, but I don't have enough experience to tell if I am using up consumables too fast.

-brian

[macona]

Like on a PMX600 and bigger? Yes, those tips are insulated and replaceable.

[JRouche]

I have a TD Pak Master 50 and I really scored on ebay. Guy gave away 25 tips, bout 20 electrodes 30 diffusers (which I wont ever need) and 15 outer copper shields for 50 bucks. I took it ;) I have more shields and diffusers than needed. Free diffusers to those that need them here, just ask. I just wanted the tips and electrodes.

And I drag the heck out of mine. Only way I can cut. No way I can keep a good distance. But I am in the process of making a stand off jig.

Oh, and I use that heavy paper construction paper for my guides. From the craft store.

I dont even burn it at all. Unless I lift or tilt into it. But with a fast enough speed I can get five to ten uses from one template. And thats for anything between 16 gauge steel to 1/4" Even with the extra heat cutting 1/4" as long as I dont lift or tilt the thick paper is not burnt out of shape. Lil scorched, but still sharp on the edge.

And when I drag I have a slight (very slight) tilt back on the torch. Away from my cut, so Im not blowing anything back up into the nozzle..

And I DO have some tips with serious 1/8" holes through them. Thats from cutting up car bodies and sometimes having a really long gap between the tip and metal I want to cut. When Im just hacking up cars I will let the tip get really bad. Till it wont cut anymore. Just hack work. And the electrodes can cup by a 1/8".

But when I want a really nice slice I have my stand-by tips and electrodes. Even the good used ones will slice a 1/32" kerf in 1/4" steel. And no slag on the back side for the most part, if there is, it just chips off with a fingernail. I love my plasma cutter :)))) JR

[aboard_epsilon]

yeah ...come to think of it ..i do think the tips are insulated .......and i drag at a slight tilt like mr J roach does.

the trouble with the frame is ...that it would prevent me depressing the tip to start it .

yes it does have a switch on the handle that you have to actuate at the same time..........on top of that it has a jumper bridge on the torch that is detachable like a key to prevent any unauthorized playing.

think i remember reading in the manual that i once had with it ...that the hi-freq was for getting through paint on car body panels ...it does work through paint ..that i know.

think depressing the tip, shorts out the tip to ground to initialize the start

all the best.markj

[torker]

Ah...car bodies.! I cut up at least 10 vehicles with my lil Lincoln 25. Only on 110V so it wasn't a barn burner but it worked really good for draggin out back with an extension cord and hackin them up.
I drag everything...with a metal straight edge. Never had a problem with the Lincoln doing that. This Hypertherm is a lot harder on tips tho. Cuz of more power I assume.

[macona]

Under 35 amps or so you can drag with little effect on tip life. Above that and you start having issues.