View Full Version : material advances

07-26-2003, 01:11 AM
Check these guys out: http://www.reactivenanotech.com/
they have developed a Aluminum/Nickel foil that joins disimilar materials like ceramics to metal. They developed a new foil that when ignited it instantly brazes two materials together. It is showing great promise as a new way to bond heatsinks to devices as it has good thermal abilities (70.0W/m°K). The have a photo of this being done...

Artic Silver just came out with a new heatsink compound called "Ceramique" - it can drop the core temp of an Athalon by 5 extra degrees.

(both of these are from "The Firing Line" if you want to read more)

Ugine Stainless and Alloys Inc. just came out with a new 303 stainless that is highly machinable (Ugina & Ugina XL) at high SFM. Looks like it should be a hit with machine shops - time will tell if its cost is worth the extra benefit of hauling arse in the lathes and mills. They came up with a way to make inclusions soften at 800*C to provide lubrication for the carbide tooling (much the lead in 12L14 allows free machining). Looks interesting.

Also 12T14 has been out for some time as a non-toxic replacement for 12L14. The Tin based alloy requires higher surface speeds to get the same results.

07-26-2003, 04:08 AM
Don't know about all these fancy new alloys. I was machining a piece of 4 inch mild steel hot rolled bar stock in my SB9 tonight to make a weight to replace that York weight for the telescope balance. Pretty close to the maximum capability of the old SB. Had to use carbide to break the scale and chipped one bit.

It really sucks how nature can deal a crummy hand. We won't be going to Mt. Kobau to try the new telescope. The forest fire in Washington is threatening to cross the border and is headed to Mt. Kobau. 60,000 acres burnt so far and another 150,000 acres of standing "red and dead" forest ahead of it. Totally inaccessable and will probably burn for the next two months. My grandkids are devastated.

07-26-2003, 04:35 AM
Thrud, The first one makes an article I saw a few years ago in an April 1st. issue of a railway magazine on new rods to allow electrically welding rail to concrete sleepers almost believable!


07-26-2003, 04:47 PM
And to think I thought the world was full of wonders when I was a kid - nothing like what is happening now...

Bummer man - I feel more sorrow for the trees though. Trees are our friends! They fart Oxygen. Anything that farts oxygen is OK on my books. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

I always lament the full eclips I seen back in the late 20th. century. I was welding outside and got to watch it though my gold lens - Two days before I was going to buy a Meade 12" research grade reflector. Missed opportunity for me too. It was beautiful.

Of course I told the other welders that it was me that made the Sun go away, and was later made tribal chief when I got it to come back - Magic! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//rolleyes.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

07-26-2003, 07:44 PM
I always clean up hot rolled with a grinder before machining. Saves a lot of bits. I use one of those cheap 4 1/2" angle grinders. Chuck your stock, spin it and touch it with the grinder. I do the same with flat plate (strap) before milling (except no spinning).

07-27-2003, 01:02 AM

I will keep that in mind. Why didn't I think of it?

BTW, the weight turned out really nice. Now, if the damned fires would just go out...

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 07-27-2003).]

07-27-2003, 03:20 AM
Cover those ways to keep the grinding grit away...or do it on another machine???

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Evan:

I will keep that in mind. Why didn't I think of it?

BTW, the weight turned out really nice. Now, if the damned fires would just go out...

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 07-27-2003).]</font>

Forrest Addy
07-27-2003, 03:24 AM
Heavy scale is always a PITA and hard on tools even in rugged machine tools.

I keep a 5 gal pail with a pint of muratic acid in a quart of water.

Any steel stock having strongly adherent scale gets tossed into it for a few hours. wash off the residues and give the stock a no holds barred brushing on a stiff power wire wheel and the scale is no more.

Do all the above out of doors, downwind fromthe shop. Acid fumes travel far and seek out cast iron and precision tools to rust. Acid fume rust persists even after vigorous cleaning and oiling. Never store acid or acid solutions indoors even if they're tightly sealed.

It's too big a risk.

Peter S
07-27-2003, 06:44 AM
You can stay away from my lathe too, with your grinding machine! http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

07-27-2003, 07:19 AM
I put a drop cloth on the ways whenever I do cast iron or any kind of grinding near the lathe. So far, I have not had it (the drop cloth) catch the chuck and make a whirling dervish. Could happen though.


The acid fumes are an unappreciated risk. I do all my pickling and anodizing outside and downwind. Fortunately, at least for my tools, where I live it is semi-arid and the humidity never rises above 50% and is usually in the 27% range. A little hard on the nose though.